My Trike build- ala Steve and Tank

[landuse]

Yay me

Yay you.....

If anyone wants Tony's "to scale" footprint to help drill mounting holes, you can PM him or me for it to be sent to you via email

EDIT: I figured out how to attach a word document. You just have to zip it

 

[OzFab]

Sweet, come & get it...

It's really simple to use, just open it in MS Word & print; it even comes with guidelines & easy to follow instructions

 

[landuse]

This weekend I got some time to work on my Trike again. I had gotten the axle back with the holes drilled in it for my hubs to attach, as well as my brake hub which had to get bored bigger for my axle. Pics below.

The first thing I did was put the axle back in the trike to see if everything lines up, and it seems to be fine. The next thing that I thought I must get behind my back is the whole braking system. I stole Fabromans braking system idea that he used for his build off winner, the AusEx. (I hope you don’t mind Tony. I DID say that I would be stealing people’s ideas ) Tony had used a U type channel piece of metal that he bolted to the bearing hanger, and then cut it so that the brake calliper could be bolted to it. What I used was something I made a while ago when I was going to make a friction drive bicycle. I went another route with it then and this u channel bracket just sat in my parts pile. The pics below show the progression of my bracket into the final product. It doesn’t look as pretty as Tony’s, but I think it will get the job done.

 

[landuse]

Once I had the brake bracket sorted out, and it looked like everything would line up, I bolted it all together to see if the calliper would spin freely. I think the hub is slightly untrue, because there is one spot when it is spinning that catches the brake pads more that the rest. Hopefully this will sort itself out with use.

Because these brakes were really old, they weren't working properly, and I knew I would have to take it apart and clean it. When I opened the reservoir cap, all that I saw was a whole lot of congealed waxy like yellow stuff that just fell out. You can see it below in my hand. I did not take the calliper apart, because it seemed to work OK, and when I took the hose off, brake fluid came out, so it wasn't congealed in there.

I then cleaned up the reservoir, took the spring, etc out and cleaned up the barrel. After putting it all back together, it was time to bleed the brakes. With the whole system being full of air, I had to actually suck some of the fluid through the system, while topping it up. One thing I CAN attest to.....brake fluid tases horrible!!

I eventually got the brakes bled, and it all works like a charm now. There is nothing like having hydraulic brakes on a kart.

So now is the part where I have to figure out how to actuate the brakes while riding. What I have been thinking of is having something like a brake lever that I can pull with the one hand (nearly like those old slot machines where you pull the handle towards you). This will be attached to the frame next to the seat somewhere. Something like the pic below.

What ideas do you guys have on the linkages to actuate the brakes, keeping in mind that the reservoir sits straight up, and that the actuating pin has to push from underneath. I still have the fool pedal that came off the pit bike that these brakes were on.

I can tell you one thing....brakes are definately the hardest part of a build

 

[OzFab]

I stole Fabromans braking system idea that he used for his build off winner, the AusEx. (I hope you don’t mind Tony. I DID say that I would be stealing people’s ideas )

If I didn't want anyone "borrowing" my ideas, do you really think I would publish them on the internet?

It doesn’t look as pretty as Tony’s, but I think it will get the job done.

That's coz you're not as good as me

No seriously, good job Looks are, literally, cosmetic, as long as it works, who cares what it looks like? Unless you go looking for it can you even see it?

I think the hub is slightly untrue, because there is one spot when it is spinning that catches the brake pads more that the rest. Hopefully this will sort itself out with use.

You actually want a bit of runout but, if it's excessive, try "adjusting" the hub...

When I opened the reservoir cap, all that I saw was a whole lot of congealed waxy like yellow stuff that just fell out.

I know you said you cleaned it out but, I hope you did a thorough job; one flake can seize the whole system...

brake fluid tases horrible!!

You're supposed to stop sucking before it reaches your mouth... Come to think of it, you're not supposed to use your mouth at all, they have pumps for that or just let gravity do the work...

So now is the part where I have to figure out how to actuate the brakes while riding. What ideas do you guys have on the linkages to actuate the brakes, keeping in mind that the reservoir sits straight up, and that the actuating pin has to push from underneath.

Ok, here's what I would do:

Let's start at the back: Mount the master just how & where it is, only a little higher. Weld a 1/4" bolt to the upright infront of it which will form the pivot for your actuator bracket.... you know what, have a look at this & see if you can follow it; this lays flat but use the same setup & config & it'll work fine.

Then you can either run a linkage to the lever OR you can run a cable to a lever on the handlebars...

I can tell you one thing....brakes are definately the hardest part of a build

We'll agree to disagree on that one but, let me ask you, how much experience do you have reviving an old hyrdaulic brake system?

 

[landuse]

If I didn't want anyone "borrowing" my ideas, do you really think I would publish them on the internet?



That's coz you're not as good as me

No seriously, good job Looks are, literally, cosmetic, as long as it works, who cares what it looks like? Unless you go looking for it can you even see it?



You actually want a bit of runout but, if it's excessive, try "adjusting" the hub...



I know you said you cleaned it out but, I hope you did a thorough job; one flake can seize the whole system...



You're supposed to stop sucking before it reaches your mouth... Come to think of it, you're not supposed to use your mouth at all, they have pumps for that or just let gravity do the work...



Ok, here's what I would do:

Let's start at the back: Mount the master just how & where it is, only a little higher. Weld a 1/4" bolt to the upright infront of it which will form the pivot for your actuator bracket.... you know what, have a look at this & see if you can follow it; this lays flat but use the same setup & config & it'll work fine.

Then you can either run a linkage to the lever OR you can run a cable to a lever on the handlebars...



We'll agree to disagree on that one but, let me ask you, how much experience do you have reviving an old hyrdaulic brake system?

Thanks for that link Tony. I was scouring the site earlier trying to find something, but wasn't successful.

I have no experience with hydraulic brakes at all, except just mounting and using them. I think I would prefer having the brakes on the handles, so I will look into that

 

[OzFab]

how much experience do you have reviving an old hyrdaulic brake system?

I have no experience with hydraulic brakes at all, except just mounting and using them.

Well then, of course there would be a degree of difficulty for you. Considering the condition they were in, you did well for your first attempt

I may bust your chops every now & then but, credit where credit's due...

 

[landuse]

Well then, of course there would be a degree of difficulty for you. Considering the condition they were in, you did well for your first attempt

I may bust your chops every now & then but, credit where credit's due...

Remember.....I am mechanically challenged

 

[Oxymoron]

Coming along nicely, Paul :thumbup:

I think you're on the right track mounting a lever on the handlebars for the brakes. You don't want to have to take your hand off of them to grab something else to actuate the brake.

If they have to be actuated from beneath, you could have a pin/post that is forced upward by a cam attached to the end of the brake cable, with a roller bearing under the pin/post. Squeeze the brake lever, the cam moves toward the front of the trike, pushing the pin into the cylinder.

That's what I'd do probably. Plus... it will just look cool

 

[landuse]

Coming along nicely, Paul :thumbup:

I think you're on the right track mounting a lever on the handlebars for the brakes. You don't want to have to take your hand off of them to grab something else to actuate the brake.

If they have to be actuated from beneath, you could have a pin/post that is forced upward by a cam attached to the end of the brake cable, with a roller bearing under the pin/post. Squeeze the brake lever, the cam moves toward the front of the trike, pushing the pin into the cylinder.

That's what I'd do probably. Plus... it will just look cool

Thanks. I am going to have to read what you wrote there a few times to visualise what you are trying to say. My brain is now tired

 

[Oxymoron]

Thanks. I am going to have to read what you wrote there a few times to visualise what you are trying to say. My brain is now tired

LOL, I hear you man. I can sketch it later if you like :thumbup:

 

[OzFab]

I can sketch it later if you like :thumbup:

Please do, I'm having a bit of trouble visualising it too

 

[Oxymoron]

Alright, I tried using the markers app on my tablet, but an artist I am not. I'll do a rough mock up with scrap parts tomorrow at work. That'll be better than a sketch anyway.

 

[landuse]

Alright, I tried using the markers app on my tablet, but an artist I am not. I'll do a rough mock up with scrap parts tomorrow at work. That'll be better than a sketch anyway.

Thanks. I would appreciate it

 

[Oxymoron]

Well guys, I apologize... I'm getting slammed at work today. I don't have time to do a mockup, but I did attempt another sketch.... don't make too much fun of my completely absent artistic abilities

I'll probably have a chance to jump back on here during my lunch break though.

I hope the gist of it is clear...

 

[itsid]

cool idea

most likely intended but not in the picture:
I think the cam needs to run in a rail of some sort, to prevent it from going sideways or simply getting pressed down by the compression spring.

'sid

 

[Oxymoron]

cool idea

most likely intended but not in the picture:
I think the cam needs to run in a rail of some sort, to prevent it from going sideways or simply getting pressed down by the compression spring.

'sid

Thanks Sid! Yep, definitely needs to ride in a channel. Got a service call at work and forgot to add it to the... "sketch"
I feel all giddy too... I got a compliment from the Sidmeister! LOL, thanks Bud! :thumbup:

I'd rather be doing this than working, but oh well. Hope that drawing makes sense Paul, and Tony :thumbup:

 

[landuse]

That is a sweet idea. I am going to have to give it some thought

 

[Oxymoron]

I'm positive there's a more simple solution, but that would probably work. I'm guilty of over doing it sometimes

 

[OzFab]

Interesting concept but, I'm afraid I'm with sid but, I'm gonna go one step further; it needs a guide channel not only under it but, one on top as well so the bearing roller doesn't "derail"...

Let me think about it for a while but, I still think my idea is way simpler & it's based on the same concept used on racing kart M/Cs...