My Trike build- ala Steve and Tank

[OzFab]

And Jim is also correct about how you can adjust both the effective length of the spacer as well the overall positioning of the whole works by using washers of various thicknesses...... (You know, some in front, some behind, to get the sprocket where you need it.....)

Hold up, the way I understood it, Jim was saying don't use washers, at all, which I agree with...

Ideally, you want the spacer to be a bit longer than required (around 1mm), that way, the retaining washer on the end doesnt bottom out on the shaft before it has a good contact on the sprocket.

Also, on the other end, near the casing, you may need to grind a small chamfer on the outside to make sure it clears the case...

 

[machinist@large]

Hold up, the way I understood it, Jim was saying don't use washers, at all, which I agree with...

Ideally, you want the spacer to be a bit longer than required (around 1mm), that way, the retaining washer on the end doesnt bottom out on the shaft before it has a good contact on the sprocket.

Also, on the other end, near the casing, you may need to grind a small chamfer on the outside to make sure it clears the case...

OK, you got me on that one; when I read Jim's post, I must have transposed it with my personal experience.

A little background; shimming bearings and gears on a shaft for correct position AND/ OR PRELOAD is a practice that's been in use in the manufacture of precision machine tools since the late 1940's. I've even had to track down and purchase a 5 lb capacity fish scale graduated in ounces just so I could measure the rotational drag on a spindle to establish the correct preload on the angular contact bearings I just replaced.

The procedure involved clamping a short length of flat stock to the spindle nut, measuring 3" +/- 1/32" from the spindle shaft center line. Line the bar in the 12:00/ 6:00 position, with the bar on top. Attach the 20lb test fish line at the 3" line.(line needed to be measured and fixed at the 24" mark under tension before use). Using three people, have one person watch the vertical bar to monitor when it starts to move, another to monitor the poundage on the scale (3 to 3 1/4 lbs) WHEN the forces on the shaft overcome the (an industry term) stiction forces set up on the bearings by the amount of preload, and the final person to controllably pull on the line attached to the scale, then the 24" line, then the vertical bar.

This needed to be repeated three times for each flat of the spindle nut, in sequence, to confirm that you haven't built a hard spot into the installation of the new bearings.

Does a kart need that level of precision? Most likely not. Am I guilty of being stuck in a rut, always looking at the world around me under those tolerances?

How does that old chant go? Mea culpa, mea culpa,......

Paul, I really need to apologize for this thread jack incident....

Pat

 

[landuse]

Don't worry about jacking the thread. It is all good info. Thanks guys. I will see what pipe I can find this weekend

 

[landuse]

So I got a bit of an update.

I drilled out my engine mount to get my engine on. I had to do this so that I could mark the axle where the sprocket hub is going to be attached. I also marked where the wheel hubs are going to be attached. If you all remember, I am going to be drilling through my axle and attaching the hubs using split pins

Regarding the spacer I asked about, I went to a place in town that does plumbing supplies and asked for a 3cm length of 22mm ID pipe. They didn't even charge me for it. Pat was correct in what he said about me having to grind the weld bead on the inside of the pipe. You can see it in the one pic below.

It took me a little time to get the spacer to fit, but it is now snug and fits like a glove. Thanks guys.

I also mounted the handles on the forks. This was relatively easy, and I just had to drill 4 holes to get them mounted. I had to lift the saddles a bit with a washer so that they would clear the centre bolt holding the forks to the frame. Pics below

I then took the axle out so that I can give it to the machinist to drill the holes I need. I also took a wheel hub from an old gokart frame I have, and I will have it drilled out to have a 1" bore. This is going to be my brake hub.

I also drove around town looking for some material for seat covering. I will get vinyl, as it is the most weather resistant. I am going for a navy blue. What do you guys think? The frame is just going to be plain black at the moment. I am not 100% sure yet

 

[landuse]

Pics of spacer and weld bead

 

[OzFab]

Wait, wouldn't the spacer be better behind the sprocket? I, for one, was under the impression that's what you were doing...

Oh, what did you sort out with the engine drilling template :toetap05:

 

[machinist@large]

Awesome!!! I'm glad to see that you got what you needed without having to do complex gymnastics thru flaming rings and such....

I love the fact that they just gave you the piece; if you had gone looking for it in DOM tubing, it would have cost you. I'm betting that they just went to the threading machine and looked for a cutoff slug that was in the ball park. Someone else had already paid for it when they had a pipe cut to length; since all they had to do was look in the chip tray, and say "there's one", it would have taken longer to write up the paperwork than it was worth....

I've done it myself, back when I was running the roads; I always figured that if it was under 1/2 hour to look at something when I was already on site for another paying job, the paperwork (and hence the charge) was a wash. After I explained this to my boss, he had me track my paperwork time, both on the road, as well as in the office. The fact that around 50% of the time, it took longer to double check the invoicing than it took for me to do all the original paperwork to get the job done in the first place was an eye opener for all of us...

Back to topic; I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished build. I might have to steal (ahem: Liberate) some ideas....

Pat

 

[landuse]

Wait, wouldn't the spacer be better behind the sprocket? I, for one, was under the impression that's what you were doing...

Oh, what did you sort out with the engine drilling template :toetap05:

Oh, I forgot to mention that. Sorry. Tony was kind enough to make me a scale drawing in Microsoft Word for me to mark out and drill my engine mounting holes. It worked great. All I had to do was use a centre punch on the spots where the lines crossed.

I was also going to use the spacer on the engine side, but it turned out that there was a higher point on the shaft next to the reduction box that stopped the sprocket from touching the box. It looked as if the PTO had been turned down, but was still the original size near the box

Awesome!!! I'm glad to see that you got what you needed without having to do complex gymnastics thru flaming rings and such....

I love the fact that they just gave you the piece; if you had gone looking for it in DOM tubing, it would have cost you. I'm betting that they just went to the threading machine and looked for a cutoff slug that was in the ball park. Someone else had already paid for it when they had a pipe cut to length; since all they had to do was look in the chip tray, and say "there's one", it would have taken longer to write up the paperwork than it was worth....

I've done it myself, back when I was running the roads; I always figured that if it was under 1/2 hour to look at something when I was already on site for another paying job, the paperwork (and hence the charge) was a wash. After I explained this to my boss, he had me track my paperwork time, both on the road, as well as in the office. The fact that around 50% of the time, it took longer to double check the invoicing than it took for me to do all the original paperwork to get the job done in the first place was an eye opener for all of us...

Back to topic; I'm really looking forward to seeing the finished build. I might have to steal (ahem: Liberate) some ideas....

Pat

You can take all the ideas you like from this build . I have been copying everyone else for this build too

 

[OzFab]

Oh, I forgot to mention that. Sorry. Tony was kind enough to make me a scale drawing in Microsoft Word for me to mark out and drill my engine mounting holes. It worked great. All I had to do was use a centre punch on the spots where the lines crossed.

Glad to hear it worked that easy; have you fitted the engine to check for accuracy?

I was also going to use the spacer on the engine side, but it turned out that there was a higher point on the shaft next to the reduction box that stopped the sprocket from touching the box. It looked as if the PTO had been turned down, but was still the original size near the box

That's just strange but, there's still no reason you can't have the sprocket outbound; I suppose it comes down to personal preference & what works best

I might have to steal (ahem: Liberate) some ideas....

Pat

You can take all the ideas you like from this build . I have been copying everyone else for this build too

If you steal something that's already stolen, is it still stealing?

Some years ago, my nephew was into stealing cars (he's reformed now). One night, he became somewhat confused & a little annoyed that the car he stole was then stolen from him

 

[Oxymoron]

Nice progress :thumbup: I especially like the front end, it looks a lot like mine... except I don't have to remove my handlebars to get the bolt out of my head tube LOL, don't ban me, I couldn't resist!!

Seriously though, coming along nicely. It's going to be a fun ride.

 

[OzFab]

except I don't have to remove my handlebars to get the bolt out of my head tube LOL, don't ban me, I couldn't resist!!

Do you not remember his post in your thread:

Hey....when you are as mechanically challenged as I am, you will be surprised whan anything you make works

 

[Oxymoron]

LOL!!!

I do remember you ribbing him then too

 

[landuse]

Nice progress :thumbup: I especially like the front end, it looks a lot like mine... except I don't have to remove my handlebars to get the bolt out of my head tube LOL, don't ban me, I couldn't resist!!

Seriously though, coming along nicely. It's going to be a fun ride.

You know what, I didn't even think of that. I can just undo the nut on the bottom of the neck tube and then thread the rod out of the top one. Then I won't have to remove
the bars

Do you not remember his post in your thread:

Hey!!

 

[OzFab]

 

[landuse]

I see you are agreeing that I am challenged.....mechanically

 

[OzFab]

No comment

No, it was directed more at this part

You know what, I didn't even think of that. I can just undo the nut on the bottom of the neck tube and then thread the rod out of the top one. Then I won't have to remove the bars

How will you get the threaded bar out around the handlebars? Don't the handlebars sit directly above it?

 

[landuse]

No comment

No, it was directed more at this part



How will you get the threaded bar out around the handlebars? Don't the handlebars sit directly above it?

I was saying that I could get it out under the neck tube. I just unthread the rod and pull it out from underneath

I then though about it for a little bit and figured out I couldn't do that either, cos the front wheel is in the way. I am going to have to take the handles off (which will only take a minute or so)

 

[OzFab]

Yeah, that's what I thought but, as you said, that can't be done either... unless you want to redesign the whole front end...

Not sure if you missed it or not but, have you fitted the engine to check for accuracy?

 

[landuse]

Yeah, that's what I thought but, as you said, that can't be done either... unless you want to redesign the whole front end...

Not sure if you missed it or not but, have you fitted the engine to check for accuracy?

I did miss it, sorry. The engine is actually bolted down in the pics you see, so it is dead accurate

 

[OzFab]

Oh duh

Yay me