My first build

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souperman000

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you might have to get the carb cleaned

I have been surfing the internet and have come across some different ways to clean the carb. One is with compressed air. The others were something like soaking it in water and another was soaking it in Gas? :confused:
 

souperman000

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you might have to get the carb cleaned

I have been surfing the internet and have come across some different ways to clean the carb. One is with compressed air. The others were something like soaking it in water and another was soaking it in Gas???
 

landuse

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You can also do a search on the forum for cleaning carbs by boiling them in lemon juice. I have done this too. I think it was Bighead who posted about it.

Get a twist tie or guitar string, and poke out all the holes in your carb to make sure that they are clear as well.

With the carb cleaner, you can also soak your carb overnight in it.
 

landuse

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No, not really. Sometimes less is better because it gives you a lower gear ratio. A general ratio for a kart with a centrifugal clutch is aroung 6:1.

You calculate this by dividing the axel sprocket tooth count by the clutch tooth count. If you have a jackshaft the calculation is a bit different. The lower your ratio (ie. the higher your number), means that you will have more torque but less speed. The higher your ratio (ie. the smaller your gearing number) means that youwill have more speed and less torque. A higher ratio also fries clutches, so it isn'talways a good idea to go too high.

There are many factors that will determine your ideal ratio. These include kart and rider weight, if you are riding onroad or offroad, etc
 

jman231994

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Don't forget wheel size too.....That can make one heck of a difference when it comes to gear ratios. Dont go too big or youll need a lower ratio, don't go too small or youll soon realise that your wheels are useless and you're driving on the sprocket haha
 

landuse

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Don't forget wheel size too.....That can make one heck of a difference when it comes to gear ratios. Dont go too big or youll need a lower ratio, don't go too small or youll soon realise that your wheels are useless and you're driving on the sprocket haha

Yup, I forgot about wheel size..... Thanks jman
 

souperman000

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Why I wait on the paint and the engine I thought I would put together a parts list and get your guys' opinion (I'm on a budget):

Axle - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/1-Live-Axle-4000-717 - The actual frame is about 21 inches wide so I figure the 36" should do the trick

Sprocket (83 tooth) - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/35-Premier-Split-Sprocket-81T-83T-sale-2142

Sprocket Hub - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Unihub---Sprocket-Hub-AZ2556-5765

Brake Caliper - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Mechanical-Caliper-400281-815 - I'm going mechanical because it is cheaper. Is there any real BIG advantage to hydraulic?

Brake Rotor - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/8-Brake-Rotor---Gold-05706-4828

Brake Hub - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/Hub-with-3-1-8-Bolt-Pattern-400243-or-600253-6500

Axle mounts - http://www.bmikarts.com/item/1-Bearing-Kit-2-hole-400405-712 - Don't mind the rust on the bearing hangers as I will not be using them.

I'm not sure what wheels to use, either turf saver or knobby. Cost has a lot to do with that. Therefore I don't know about if I need wheel hubs. Because of the size and placement of the engine I am not sure about the chain either, any suggestions?

Other than the previously mentioned points, if you guys see any problems with my parts or any other suggestions on how to set up my kart, I'm totally willing to listen.

Thanks again for all your guys' help.
 

souperman000

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I think that if I get around 20 or so inch tire it should be good. That was one of the first things I thought about when we first started looking at the frame. what do you suggest for the wheels?
 

souperman000

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I really need to know if I have any infeelities or compatibility issues with these parts. Im new to this so your guys' advice would be really appreciated. I just wanted some opinions before I spend a bunch of money. Thanks.
 

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Do you have any weld/fab ability? You can "keep it cheap" by ahh, "reassigning" parts. For example. hydraulic disc brakes spank mechanicals all day, and can be done dead cheap if you can fab your own bracketry and actuation.
 

Doc Sprocket

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I suggest you avoid tires as big as 20" unless you want to blow a load of cash on a CVT. With a centrifugal clutch, performance will be disappointing, even with the "correct" gear ratio. IMO, go no bigger than 16x6.50x8 turfs.
 
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