Murray go kart find and build

[chancer]

On the Predator look between the Air filter and the gas tank. There is a cable clamp for the throttle cable. then you should have the inner cable sticking out. There is another type of clamp on the manual throttle lever. It accepts the inner cable.
On top of the manual throttle lever there is a nut. Loosen it and now the throttle will spring back to idle after you let go.
I will go get some pics, It is really cool, almost like they designed it for a Kart.
Tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_49Une1HFE

 

[chancer]

Here are the throttle pics. Dont forget add a return spring. So your throttle wont stick open. My kart has 2. I drilled a 1/8 hole in the manual throttle lever as shown.Pics 3 n 4.
Pic 1 shows the clamps.
Pic 2 my finger is pointing to the nut you loosen a little. It is under the fuel line.

 

[ultralight01]

Thanks! But the thing is, I just removed the governor, and the governor arm. EDIT: (should have said that in my last post, sorry, I had that exact setup before.) That manual throttle assembly now does nothing without the governor arm. So how do I attach something to the butterfly valve to make a new throttle setup??

 

[chancer]

Oh, I have not done that on a Predator. But I know it involves a piece of wire coat hangar!
No kidding. I think somewhere in Bobs 212 build this is discussed.

---------- Post added at 07:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:56 PM ----------

Throttle how to.
https://www.affordablegokarts.com/throttle-linkage.php

 

[ultralight01]

Thanks! I think I can fabricate something up now.

 

[chancer]

The tire video is kinda hillbilly, but you get the general point. It is just too much to type to explain.

 

[bob58o]

I think somewhere in Bobs 212 build this is discussed.

There's a particular piece of sand I'm looking for at the beach. lol

I show how to rig it up in reverse for the 390 carb in that thread. I dont think I got any real good pics of it before.

Skip to 1:00, the first part may contain garbage info.
The linkage part is good!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PiLg6l6hL_c

 

[ultralight01]

Well Crud! I removed the governor off the predator, fabricated a throttle hookup, and put everything back together, and now it won't start, with oil and gas!

The gears and rods inside the engine fell out and I put them back in, and lined up the dimples on the gears to match. Now, when you pull on the starter cord, the motor shaft on the other side turns quickly, and at the end of the pull there's a faint "cling" sound. It sounds kinda like there's no spark. I did take off the spark plug cover, but then I put it back on.

Please help!

---------- Post added at 09:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 PM ----------

Edit, the rods were the lifters and push rods. They went back in perfectly well.

 

[chancer]

Only thing I can add is remove the spark plug, put the wire on it and check for spark.
that is just an easy place to start and confirm spark.
Or maybe those dimples on the gears did not stay lined up correctly.
I am not enough of a mechanic to add any more insight.

 

[bob58o]

Take off the valve cover and set the valve lash. I did the same thing. But I returned the engine instead of opening the valve cover. The pushrods need to go back into the rockers.

0.003" Intake and Exhaust should be fine. Get a feeler gauge set if you don't have one. They are cheap.

 

[chancer]

Dang it I knew that and forgot!
Remember that link to AGK karts I sent you last night? They have a bunch of really good relly easy how to's. For stuff like this I learned alot there.

 

[bob58o]

#8 in my Leaning to Weld thread. Exactly where it should be. lol
Here's a little confession... concerning Harbor Freight.

Remember, this is my first time working with any kind of engine.

After watching a bunch of how to mod the Predator videos. I tried it. I got the kit, removed the gov, removed the low oil sensor, advanced the flywheel, cut wires, sealed up holes.....

When it wouldn't start, I started researching "Why won't my engine start?"

Found out all it needs is 3 things... Gas, Spark, and Compression.

Checked the Carb and Fuel Line... It was good.

Took out the spark plug, reconnected it, laid it against the block, and tuned the engine over.... I had a spark.

Started researching "How to check compression."
Went back to HF and bought a compression tester. I found out that I didn't have compression.

What I did not realize, is that when I was removing the low oil sensor and governor components and the lifters and push rods fell out... that a simple slide back into hole wouldn't work. I never opened the valve cover.

I, instead, removed all the parts I had just installed and tried to make it look stock again. I drained the oil and gas, put it back in the box, and brought it back to HF. I told them it had no compression. They gave me a new one with no hassles.

I did the whole thing again. This time I made sure push rods were set in the rockers and I also set the valve lash after.
Worked fine.

I was too embarrassed to ask what was wrong on the forum and figured a little practice was good anyway.

If they didn't exchange it, I was going to have to ask for help on the forum and accept my 20 "LASHES" from the Poboy for being stuuuuupppidddd.

 

[Poboy kartman]

#8 in my Leaning to Weld thread. Exactly where it should be. lol
Here's a little confession... concerning Harbor Freight.

Remember, this is my first time working with any kind of engine.

After watching a bunch of how to mod the Predator videos. I tried it. I got the kit, removed the gov, removed the low oil sensor, advanced the flywheel, cut wires, sealed up holes.....

When it wouldn't start, I started researching "Why won't my engine start?"

Found out all it needs is 3 things... Gas, Spark, and Compression.

Checked the Carb and Fuel Line... It was good.

Took out the spark plug, reconnected it, laid it against the block, and tuned the engine over.... I had a spark.

Started researching "How to check compression."
Went back to HF and bought a compression tester. I found out that I didn't have compression.

What I did not realize, is that when I was removing the low oil sensor and governor components and the lifters and push rods fell out... that a simple slide back into hole wouldn't work. I never opened the valve cover.

I, instead, removed all the parts I had just installed and tried to make it look stock again. I drained the oil and gas, put it back in the box, and brought it back to HF. I told them it had no compression. They gave me a new one with no hassles.

I did the whole thing again. This time I made sure push rods were set in the rockers and I also set the valve lash after.
Worked fine.

I was too embarrassed to ask what was wrong on the forum and figured a little practice was good anyway.

If they didn't exchange it, I was going to have to ask for help on the forum and accept my 20 "LASHES" from the Poboy for being stuuuuupppidddd.

Annnnnnnddddd.....What makes you think you're safe now?

---------- Post added at 12:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 AM ----------

You know....I wanna take a minute just to clarify.....

We have a lot of fun busting each other's chops here....but it's all in good fun. We've had members come here with severe mental obstacles due to mental trauma. And nobody poked fun at them....because it's no laughing matter. We helped them as best we could....and treated them with respect.

We don't require new members to know ANYTHING. We don't think there is such a thing as a stupid question. We are here to help.

But...if you come here with an attitude.......................UMMMMMMM..... WHOA. POBOY...SETTLE DOWN.....(Get the picture? )

To refine it just a little....and give one small example: We have members come here who's first language isn't English....so ...errors in their posts are easily forgiven...I'm sure we couldn't make perfect posts in their language.

Then we have lazy A$$ kids that didn't pay attention in school and don't know how to punctuate or capitalize....but don't have any other reason to explain their RETARDED...(there....I said it!....screw Politically correct) ....that describes it perfectly.....when 20+ year old men can't form sentences better than third graders...I'd say their mental development was RETARDED.

RANT OVER.....

 

[chancer]

One time we had a guy complaining about his "irrital bowel syndrome"
I started making jokes like a junior high kid. Turns out he was serious! OOps.
But everyone was compassionate. and I apologized.
There are no dumb questions. Just dumb people.

 

[bob58o]

I was just joking when I wrote that a while ago. I'm always kidding. Poboy always has some good advice to offer to actually getting engines running.

I always suggest stealing the gaskets, jets, flywheel key, piston, connecting rod, valves, valve springs, .... And then Returning to store before 90 warranty expires. Lol

 

[Poboy kartman]

Ok...I really don't know on this one....but it really does sound like you don't have a pushrod lined up....Pull the valve cover and check....then post back.

 

[ultralight01]

I'm such a noob. I understand about lining things up though, but let me ask,
Where's the valve cover? Is it the cast aluminum OHV box?
How do I line up the push rod? Like bob posted, I just slid everything back into the holes. I don't know about taking things apart. I did line up the camshaft, that's just fine...
HF store is 1 hour away. I will check for a spark.

This is a cool learning experience and all, but I just really want to get this thing running again.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Yep...the OHV box. Oh...and if the pushrods aren't seated...you will probably have to loosen the rockers (or take the side cover off again) ...if you loosen the rockers they need to be reset to .03" at TDC on the compression stroke.

 

[ultralight01]

This doesn't look right...

 

[Poboy kartman]

Yeah....not getting the picture on this end....but can I assume I was correct?

Oops....I wasn't quite awake yet....make that .003"!!!