Manco dingo 808 rebuild

[Denny]

Nnnoooooo!

 

[Possom Point]

I know I know. Big boat job came in………

 

[Denny]

What’s more important you’re kids happiness or feeding, clothing, and housing them?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

What’s more important you’re kids happiness or feeding, clothing, and housing them?

Happine— yeah definitely feeding, clothing, housing. There’s always times where we can’t work on our hobby projects for various reasons, because they are exactly that, hobby projects. But you have a lot to look forward to!

 

[Possom Point]

They were a little disappointed I can’t work on it for a little while, but on the plus. I’ll make some money and potentially fund another go kart or mini bike build

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Who can ignore a big boat?

 

[Possom Point]

Small update. Not much. primed the motor mount and powder coated the engine mount.

 

[Possom Point]

Bam!!!!!

 

[Possom Point]

Ok fellas. Getting some motor work done tonight with the boy, he’s at a point where he wants to help, which I’m proud of!!! So trying to teach him about the different parts and what they do to make an engine run.

Just doing a bored carburetor with jets and air filter and making an exhaust pipe for it.

Went with the larger Driven (7”) for the TAV and stock clutch , using the yellow reverse wound spring as well, just a basic build for what this kart is, nothing too crazy.

 

[Possom Point]

Got some more work done, and not guna lie, had really really hard time with this motor mount. I literally spent a WHOLE day trying to figure out why it wouldn’t work. I measured the links in the old chain and made a new one same length, kept having the new chain end up being a half link short no matter how much I moved the motor forward, backwards, side to side, same issue every time. I re-drilled holes made new slots, slotted the motor mount same thing, chain was half a link short, needless to say this made me furious, I have never had this much trouble making a motor mount correctly and having the chain have enough slack and enough room to tighten up. SO I MADE ANOTHER ONE!!!! This one is ugly, not pretty but some how worked, still slotted the top and bottom this time.

I was finally able to mount everything up, motor, the mount, clutch, driven etc, and got it running enough to test it with the throttle lever, next step is seat, throttle cable and brake cable, and of course check the brake pads before taking it for a true spin around the yard.

here are some pics…..

 

[Possom Point]

So this is a quick vid, I tried to ad it but said was to long.

Manco Dingo model 808

youtube.com

 

[Possom Point]

Got another throttle cable coming in, the one I had bought was to short for the new motor setup, will post pics when that comes in.

 

[Possom Point]

Aright fellas, took it for a spin yesterday, ran pretty good, but seems to lag a little bit on acceleration and kinda bogs out almost as in it’s missing on the top end (wide open throttle). This carb came off eBay (DONT HATE ME) Says it’s a .670 race blueprint carb with a .074 main jet and a .024 low jet, buddy of mine said it looked like it was running HOT from the plug, I took the exhaust off and the valve did look hot as well. I am using the Arnold muffler you can buy at hardware store with 3/4” threads instead of the stock muffler.

MOTORHEADS!!! What do you think it could be????

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Aright fellas, took it for a spin yesterday, ran pretty good, but seems to lag a little bit on acceleration and kinda bogs out almost as in it’s missing on the top end (wide open throttle). This carb came off eBay (DONT HATE ME) Says it’s a .670 race blueprint carb with a .074 main jet and a .024 low jet, buddy of mine said it looked like it was running HOT from the plug, I took the exhaust off and the valve did look hot as well. I am using the Arnold muffler you can buy at hardware store with 3/4” threads instead of the stock muffler.

MOTORHEADS!!! What do you think it could be????

Post the ad where you got the .670" carb.

A couple guys around here, bought .650" stock style carbs off ebay, that I could never get tuned. Only measured .580"- .590". They ran best with a .031"-.035" main, and .022" low speed jet.

Somethings wrong with the .074" main jet. A .040" jet is HUGE for a small block.

My 224 has a .675" from racerproquip, and it has the best plug reading with a .038". It's not stock.

You will need to advance your ignition timing, and bump up the compression to get the max gain from a bored stock style carb. If not, the stock bore (.580-.615") will work perfectly fine with the 8.8:1 CR and 18*-27* BTDC ignition timing.
There's no way to tell what the stock timing is, unless you use a degree wheel, and piston stop to check it yourself.

As for your plug, it is really lean on the high side. There's no way that is a .024" low side jet, it would have the thread area and ground strap covered in soot.

The stock muffler on the 224 is the biggest muffler I have measured on any small block, and can easily handle 5300 rpm with out any problems.

I hope you didn't get taken on that .670" carb.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

[Possom Point]

Here is the link from ebay

FOR PREDATOR 212cc .670 Race Printed CARBURETOR & Filter KIT KART Mini Bike | eBay

1 Carburetor. When installing adapter make sure that the two brass air passages are not obstructed. The adapter will mount in either position, but only one position will work properly. 3 X. 074 main jet.

www.ebay.com

when I went back and looked, the .074 didn’t sound right, I ran a .041 before and basically flooded my engine on my 420 and switched back to the .040.

do you think a timing key would be beneficial for this motor? Or just put the stock carb with a jet kit in it? I didn’t want to go all out on this engine but I definitely don’t want to burn it up if it’s not done right.

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Here is the link from ebay

FOR PREDATOR 212cc .670 Race Printed CARBURETOR & Filter KIT KART Mini Bike | eBay

1 Carburetor. When installing adapter make sure that the two brass air passages are not obstructed. The adapter will mount in either position, but only one position will work properly. 3 X. 074 main jet.

www.ebay.com

when I went back and looked, the .074 didn’t sound right, I ran a .041 before and basically flooded my engine on my 420 and switched back to the .040.

do you think a timing key would be beneficial for this motor? Or just put the stock carb with a jet kit in it? I didn’t want to go all out on this engine but I definitely don’t want to burn it up if it’s not done right.

Sorry bud, I think you got taken. That looks exactly like those ads with the .650" carbs, description is a little different.
If it was a TRUE .670" SA bored carb, they couldn't keep up with the demand for that price.

Here's what I run on mine. I ran it with the stock 224 (before i built it up) with governor at 5300 rpm, stock air box, header, 28* ignition timing, 9.3:1 CR, PVL flywheel, it ran and worked excellent with a .035" main jet. I'm still not sure what the low speed jet is, I know its more then stock (.016"-.018"), I would say it's a .022", but I have no reason to pull it out and check, whatever size it is jus works very good.

Predator/Clone Kart Racing "SuperJet" Carburetor .675 SA Legal w/Jet Kit USA NEW | eBay

We include the"SuperJet" tuners Kit of 6 main jets. 035. 036. 037. Carburetor is ready for your custom engine build. Will fit all Predator Hemi and non Hemi engines and Honda GX200, BSP yellow, Greyhound, Central Machinery, and equivalent 196cc 208cc 212cc 218cc type clone engines.

www.ebay.com

I would jus use a 1/32" drill bit and open the stock main jet up to .031". This works well with stock low CR engines.

As for you ignition timing, a +4* - +6* key will work. I jus can't tell you what the stock timing is, they ALL differ.

Too much timing is jus as bad as too little. Too much puts too much pressure on the connecting rod, too little, adds heat and looses power.

Let's say the crank has 27* now, you add a +4, now it's 31*. Probly too much

Or, it's 18*, then add a +4 key, now it 22*. Theres a gain there, but not enough to do anything with.

Now if it was at 24* now and you add a +4* key, now it's 28* which will be dam near perfect for optimal ignition timing for a stock to mild build with a stock rod,

It's jus 1 of those things you have to check yourself, if you wanna know.

Jus like piston ring end gaps, piston to cylinder clearance, valve spring install height, etc, ect.

 

[Possom Point]

Sorry bud, I think you got taken. That looks exactly like those ads with the .650" carbs, description is a little different.
If it was a TRUE .670" SA bored carb, they couldn't keep up with the demand for that price.

Here's what I run on mine. I ran it with the stock 224 (before i built it up) with governor at 5300 rpm, stock air box, header, 28* ignition timing, 9.3:1 CR, PVL flywheel, it ran and worked excellent with a .035" main jet. I'm still not sure what the low speed jet is, I know its more then stock (.016"-.018"), I would say it's a .022", but I have no reason to pull it out and check, whatever size it is jus works very good.

Predator/Clone Kart Racing "SuperJet" Carburetor .675 SA Legal w/Jet Kit USA NEW | eBay

We include the"SuperJet" tuners Kit of 6 main jets. 035. 036. 037. Carburetor is ready for your custom engine build. Will fit all Predator Hemi and non Hemi engines and Honda GX200, BSP yellow, Greyhound, Central Machinery, and equivalent 196cc 208cc 212cc 218cc type clone engines.

www.ebay.com

I would jus use a 1/32" drill bit and open the stock main jet up to .031". This works well with stock low CR engines.

As for you ignition timing, a +4* - +6* key will work. I jus can't tell you what the stock timing is, they ALL differ.

Too much timing is jus as bad as too little. Too much puts too much pressure on the connecting rod, too little, adds heat and looses power.

Let's say the crank has 27* now, you add a +4, now it's 31*. Probly too much

Or, it's 18*, then add a +4 key, now it 22*. Theres a gain there, but not enough to do anything with.

Now if it was at 24* now and you add a +4* key, now it's 28* which will be dam near perfect for optimal ignition timing for a stock to mild build with a stock rod,

It's jus 1 of those things you have to check yourself, if you wanna know.

Jus like piston ring end gaps, piston to cylinder clearance, valve spring install height, etc, ect.

Well that’s poop in the fish bowl….. but you’re prob right. It is eBay…. I drilled jet with a #60 drill bit. Should be .040 now. It ran much better on top end and felt faster, at least from acceleration, BUT the plug still looks lean, I don’t want to give up on the carb yet but like you said not sure exactly what I have here. With the carb, is there another thing I can check? The jet was DEFINITELY SMALL!!!!!

also roasted the pipe I checked with temp gun and pipe was about 390-400 degrees. Seems hot to me

 

[BrownStainRacing]

Well that’s poop in the fish bowl….. but you’re prob right. It is eBay…. I drilled jet with a #60 drill bit. Should be .040 now. It ran much better on top end and felt faster, at least from acceleration, BUT the plug still looks lean, I don’t want to give up on the carb yet but like you said not sure exactly what I have here. With the carb, is there another thing I can check? The jet was DEFINITELY SMALL!!!!!

also roasted the pipe I checked witho temp gun and pipe was about 390-400 degrees. Seems hot to me

It still looks lean, to me too.

Check temp on head, right above the sparkplug hole. That's cylinder head temp, it'll tell more about the combustion chamber temps.

After a good 20-30 min ride, it should be around 225*-250*, while idling. It'll be higher, but slowly go down as it sits and idles, but still should show 225-250*.

Look inside that muffler. It came with a plug in the middle. That's more restricted then the stock muffler, and cause hi temps.

Drill the plug out, or jus use the stock muffler. Or any stock muffler, if you destroyed the stock 1.

 

[Denny]

The stock mufflers on Rotoderps are not very restrictive at all. Actually pretty free flowing.

 

[Possom Point]

It still looks lean, to me too.

Check temp on head, right above the sparkplug hole. That's cylinder head temp, it'll tell more about the combustion chamber temps.

After a good 20-30 min ride, it should be around 225*-250*, while idling. It'll be higher, but slowly go down as it sits and idles, but still should show 225-250*.

Look inside that muffler. It came with a plug in the middle. That's more restricted then the stock muffler, and cause hi temps.

Drill the plug out, or jus use the stock muffler. Or any stock muffler, if you destroyed the stock 1.

I’ll try this tmrw, I did hit the head with temp gun real quick want to say was 290 or so. But I’ll check again tmrw, good call on the muffler. Didn’t think about drilling the plug out!!!