jr dragster T
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Yes the top of the belt on the secondary should pop out of the secondary a BIT.
LowRider Ver 2.0 #3
- Thread starter Kenny_McCormic
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Russ2251
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That's the fun part.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Waiting on my correct belt to arrive........
kibble
I banned myself
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Waiting on my correct belt to arrive........
LOL! Nice chop! You shoulda used the blue shell though!:arf:
Russ2251
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LOL...I love it!!!
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
THX- I wish I did use the Blue Shell, now that you mention it!
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
I would just roughly set the highend mix for now (richen till she starts boggin without a load)and play with idle stuff once you have it in a driveable state and can get it warmed up.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
I've got both needles about 1 turn wider than the initial setting recommendations, and it's boggy when you flip the throttle open, and the idle's iffy, no matter how far you turn the needle either way. At one time it was running with the hi needle completely closed, but maybe Tillys have completely separate low/high speed circuits. I REALLY want to use a Tilly on it.
It seems that I might have jumped the gun a bit saying it's done- still alot to to take care of. When I first got the motor, I started hunting down info and missing parts on it. One of things I did was order a starter for an SA2-440, reasoning (ASSuming) that since the SA2-290 and the SA2-340 were the same, why not? Well, the 440 is bigger. I was willing to put up with the rope start until I had to keep pulling and winding and...
As it turns out, the hub/drive of the starters are the same; just the housing and mounts are about an inch and a half larger in diameter. So, since I'm waiting on the right belt anyway, I figured I'd Assburger the larger starter onto the motor. If it works, it'll save me lots of trouble and a ton of money. Then I can attack the carb. I have another Tilly HD carb waiting in the wings, but what's the point. The carb is cleaned out (Hopefully) adjusted properly and the engine's in great shape.
Hey Russ- Believe it or not, this is a piston-port motor. I thought for sure it'd be reed-valve. I've seen the pistons from both the intake and exhaust side, and this motor looks like the day it's castings first cooled. (Besides getting dumped around a UPS truck until things got broke off or bent.)
Yeah most of the old sled engines were piston ported. Only the very high performance ones had reeds. I would get a 34-38mm Mikuni Roundslide, you can get them cheap on ebay, and they make great carbs. With the 38 on mine it had instant throttle response.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
More Brief Updates!
I got the starter mounted, and works great! It was worth the extra Assburgering to get it to work. I'm finding out that the carb is actually flooding- if you goose the throttle and watch in the carb throat, it gets pretty darned wet with fuel in a hurry- even with the jets almost all the way closed. This is encouraging, because now I have an idea on what might be the problem with the carb.
What's sad is, even with it running like this, I wouldn't hesitate to try it out, but the belt won't disengage. This is driving me nuts, waiting for the other belt.
..and yet another short video with no merit.
http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m290/jerryassburger/?action=view¤t=100_0845.flv
I got the starter mounted, and works great! It was worth the extra Assburgering to get it to work. I'm finding out that the carb is actually flooding- if you goose the throttle and watch in the carb throat, it gets pretty darned wet with fuel in a hurry- even with the jets almost all the way closed. This is encouraging, because now I have an idea on what might be the problem with the carb.
What's sad is, even with it running like this, I wouldn't hesitate to try it out, but the belt won't disengage. This is driving me nuts, waiting for the other belt.
..and yet another short video with no merit.
http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m290/jerryassburger/?action=view¤t=100_0845.flv
It still engages with the chain hooked up? I know when i have the back lifted on my golfcart with the engine running it will spin the tires at idle. But with it on the ground there's enough weight against it where it wont move.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Sorry Crazycart- I must've been typing when you posted. If this doesn't give me satisfactory results, I'm going to start the hunt for a mikuni, a fuel-pump, and do a little research on what others are jetting their motors at. I'm thinking a 30-32mm mikuni, because my motor is quite a bit smaller than yours. I was looking at some of the specs on the 2 cylinder/single carb motors with mikunis, and 30 seems to be what they run. At this pint, I'm about ready to grab one of my tecumseh carbs and bungie/duct-tape it on!
Russ2251
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Difficult to tell from vid, but sounds like its idling very high.
I adjust idle on my 2 cycles just high enough to keep them from stalling.
If left idling long enough will eventually stall because oil tends to load up engine (pooling). Should be able to idle unassisted for at least 2 minutes minimum.
I adjust idle on my 2 cycles just high enough to keep them from stalling.
If left idling long enough will eventually stall because oil tends to load up engine (pooling). Should be able to idle unassisted for at least 2 minutes minimum.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Hi guys. The idle speed in the last video was 1750 rpm, it sounds a lot quicker than that, but the TicTack says that's what it is. I'm pretty sure it's accurate, because the clutch is supposed to engage at 3000 rpm, and sure as heck, it does.
Here's a link to an interesting site I'm reading....
http://books.google.com/books?id=A9KsF2rtSmQC&pg=PA35&lpg=PA35&dq=reed+vs+piston-ported&source=web&ots=i7c8qJvUvc&sig=mHsR3xpR2MfO-UPbtO-Xo7_5AKU&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=2&ct=result#PPA34,M1
...it's about tuning 2-strokes, etc. I have a bid on a 30mm round-slide.... hopefully I win it for cheaop. Meanwhile, I'm going to pull apart the Tilly and double check my work.
As far as carb size goes, based on the fact that my engine is 85% displacement of a 340, and the stock carb on the 340 was a 34m... that puts the proportionate carb size at 29mm, or 30mm to round up. If I base it off of the 38mm, it comes out to a 32mm. So we're in the ballpark. The tuning guide suggests 1.2mm of carb for each projected hp... 24hp= 28.8mm. Again, right in the ballpark. I'm hoping the Tilly will work, but I'll mess with a Mikuni when I get the chance.
Here's a link to an interesting site I'm reading....
http://books.google.com/books?id=A9KsF2rtSmQC&pg=PA35&lpg=PA35&dq=reed+vs+piston-ported&source=web&ots=i7c8qJvUvc&sig=mHsR3xpR2MfO-UPbtO-Xo7_5AKU&hl=en&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=2&ct=result#PPA34,M1
...it's about tuning 2-strokes, etc. I have a bid on a 30mm round-slide.... hopefully I win it for cheaop. Meanwhile, I'm going to pull apart the Tilly and double check my work.
As far as carb size goes, based on the fact that my engine is 85% displacement of a 340, and the stock carb on the 340 was a 34m... that puts the proportionate carb size at 29mm, or 30mm to round up. If I base it off of the 38mm, it comes out to a 32mm. So we're in the ballpark. The tuning guide suggests 1.2mm of carb for each projected hp... 24hp= 28.8mm. Again, right in the ballpark. I'm hoping the Tilly will work, but I'll mess with a Mikuni when I get the chance.
Russ2251
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Is the carb original to engine?
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Thx, Tykenfitz!
Yes, it's the original carb, I've got two of them now, a HD86a and a (I think) HD 95a. Both pretty similar. It doesn't seem like a lot can go wrong with them besides dirt, diaphram lever level, or the welsh plugs getting messed up. I did my best to clean it, but I was a bitt comfused setting the diaphram... maybe that's all it was?
Yes, it's the original carb, I've got two of them now, a HD86a and a (I think) HD 95a. Both pretty similar. It doesn't seem like a lot can go wrong with them besides dirt, diaphram lever level, or the welsh plugs getting messed up. I did my best to clean it, but I was a bitt comfused setting the diaphram... maybe that's all it was?
2or3wheels
New member
lookin good jerry, cant wait to see her fly.
Russ2251
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I swear by the Tillotsons.
I tried about a dozen or so different carbs and found these are the least 'funky'.
They provide (for me anyway) the lowest stable idle I could ever hope for.
I have found they tend to be somewhat weather sensitive. That is, high speed needs to be tweaked according to weather conditions.
Humid days may require a slightly leaner mix or cold days may require richer.
I don't mean to say that I have to tweak every half hour or even once or twice a week.
Engine may run perfect for several days in a row. Then, for no apparent reason, I will experience '4 cycling' in top end.
A 1/16 turn (more or less) leaner on high speed cures it.
Sometimes I get a midrange bog which means I have to richen low speed by 1/16 turn (more or less).
From my standpoint (as usual I may be wrong) sounds like your engine is lean on low speed and rich on high speed.
I tried about a dozen or so different carbs and found these are the least 'funky'.
They provide (for me anyway) the lowest stable idle I could ever hope for.
I have found they tend to be somewhat weather sensitive. That is, high speed needs to be tweaked according to weather conditions.
Humid days may require a slightly leaner mix or cold days may require richer.
I don't mean to say that I have to tweak every half hour or even once or twice a week.
Engine may run perfect for several days in a row. Then, for no apparent reason, I will experience '4 cycling' in top end.
A 1/16 turn (more or less) leaner on high speed cures it.
Sometimes I get a midrange bog which means I have to richen low speed by 1/16 turn (more or less).
From my standpoint (as usual I may be wrong) sounds like your engine is lean on low speed and rich on high speed.
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