Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
Its SOOOOOOOOO close, its killing me to watch it progress so slowly!
LowRider Ver 2.0 #3
- Thread starter Kenny_McCormic
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2or3wheels
New member
gonna be great, gotta get it done this weekend.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Been looking for one here and there. No luck. So I have to rely on the rope.
Well, it's finished! (sort of)
The carb is gummed up to the point where it pumps the gas from the tank, but it will NOT keep running unless I spray the fuel/oil mix down the carb.It sounds weird. Imagine a weed whacker motor at the bottom of a 55 gallon drum. I figured the carb would need cleaning, so luckily I have a rebuild kit waiting. Here are the "before I dirty it up" pix.....
...no I didn't rob our vacuum cleaner for parts on the exhaust! (I won the arms from the robot of "Lost in Space" on Ebay).
Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Brother Jerry:
What is diameter of flexpipe and where did you get it? Online?
What is diameter of flexpipe and where did you get it? Online?
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Um, no video, because- except for running while I spray gas down the carb, it does nothing! I think it has to move for video. Or maybe not?
The flexpipe was from Autozone I think its 1 3/4 i.d. Yesterday, I took the muffler and the exhaust flange from the engine and played TinkerToys in the muffler section at Autozone for an hour. Then I had to go to the hardware store for the elbow. The flexpipe can only make about a 90 degree bend.
One of those stock sportster mufflers would look/sound slick on the LawnBoy! (Actually they're pretty heavy. I'm using it because its free.)
The flexpipe was from Autozone I think its 1 3/4 i.d. Yesterday, I took the muffler and the exhaust flange from the engine and played TinkerToys in the muffler section at Autozone for an hour. Then I had to go to the hardware store for the elbow. The flexpipe can only make about a 90 degree bend.
One of those stock sportster mufflers would look/sound slick on the LawnBoy! (Actually they're pretty heavy. I'm using it because its free.)
Russ2251
AZUSA:Powered by LAWN-BOY
Free is good.
2or3wheels
New member
plus it has a small expansion chamber.
Not exactly...
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Oh sure- it IS a tuned exhaust. The same way I Tunafish!
Oh- I hooked up the belt (disconnected the chain) and wound it up a couple of times. The clutches seem to do what they're supposed to, and the belt only drops so far into the driven unit and stops. Once I ...wait a minute! Lets be truthful here.
IF I get this carb back together and working, I'm going to throw Russ' TinyTach on it and see what's happening. The motor has to be spinning "Pretty Darned Quick" (scientific mumbo-jumbo term) before the belt advance all the way. I think I'll have better results with the 1 1/4" belt that I ordered.
Oh- I hooked up the belt (disconnected the chain) and wound it up a couple of times. The clutches seem to do what they're supposed to, and the belt only drops so far into the driven unit and stops. Once I ...wait a minute! Lets be truthful here.
IF I get this carb back together and working, I'm going to throw Russ' TinyTach on it and see what's happening. The motor has to be spinning "Pretty Darned Quick" (scientific mumbo-jumbo term) before the belt advance all the way. I think I'll have better results with the 1 1/4" belt that I ordered.
2or3wheels
New member
i know its not for a 2 stroke but you get the thought.
2or3wheels
New member
haha has suspension too
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Oooooh. Niiiice! Me WANT! Me WANT!!
Putting out an APB for a Sachs SA2-290 or SA2-340 recoil starter. I put the carb back together and it at least runs from it's own fuel system, but starting it with the little rope sux! Won't stay running long enough to tune it.
Putting out an APB for a Sachs SA2-290 or SA2-340 recoil starter. I put the carb back together and it at least runs from it's own fuel system, but starting it with the little rope sux! Won't stay running long enough to tune it.
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
You asked for it. You BEGGED for it. You offered to sign over your next 3 paychecks for this.......
Nope. It's all in my head.
Here I am trying to shoot video......
I don't know if I put the video in right, but if it doesn't work, I'll post the link, also:
http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m290/jerryassburger/?action=view¤t=100_0833.flv
As you can see, it runs without me having to wrap the starter rope around it and yank every 30 seconds... but that's it. CrazyCart is right about these carbs being BOGGY, and no amount of twisting the dials gives satisfactory results. I'm going to pull the carb apart again and double check the diaphram metering level. It said "Flush with the wall of the chamber, but I have some 1/16" protrusions that make up almost half of the chamber, so.... it's back to the drawing board. I really want to use the Tilly because it's readily adjustable. If I get a Mikuni it's a guessing game of buying and trading jets, messing with needle-slot settings, etc. I like the end results of a Mikuni, but tuning them is very "after a fashion".
At the end of the Vid I say something about TicTacs (?). Even I couldn't figure out what the H_LL I was referring to when I played it back, just moments later.
(I keep calling the TinyTack a TicTac).
Here are the measurements... better than I could've hoped to achieved by expert clutch tuning. (That's right- this was a Lucky Crap-Shoot... NOTHING MORE.)
1.) It'll idle down to about 1750 rpm without dying.
2.)The clutch starts pinching at 3000 rpm-ish. (The Tiny Tack has a slow response time, so anywhere from 2800rpm- 3100 rpm)
3.) Full belt advance (top of the primary clutch) is right at 6600 rpm-ish... again, 6500rpm to 6700 rpm or so. If you bring the rpm down to 6000, the belt starts dropping back down the pulley about a half inch. (12mm).
4.) Running weird. Doesn't want to idle below 1700, mid-opening the throttle cause a bog, slowly opening the throttle and then goosing it gets it going. (Gotta be a lean condition)
5.) Despite obviously running lean, it's running ...COLD. After running it easily for 10 minutes straight, there's not a spot (except for the exhaust manifold DUH) on the engine that you can't comfortably put your hand on. Even the cylinder and heads? Obviously you gotta load them down pretty good to generate some heat, but even the B/S motors get hot running/idling.
6.) Most of the noise is the mechanical noises of the motor itself. Put your hand over the exhaust, and it just takes a way the low "Hummmm-Duuuumm,-Dummm" noises. I know a lot of manufacturers jumped to liquid-cooling for a bunch of reasons,(MANY advantages) one of them being noise control.
Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the motor. Just needs its carb issues ironed out, and the narrower belt should arrive shortly.
Nope. It's all in my head.
Here I am trying to shoot video......
I don't know if I put the video in right, but if it doesn't work, I'll post the link, also:
http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m290/jerryassburger/?action=view¤t=100_0833.flv
As you can see, it runs without me having to wrap the starter rope around it and yank every 30 seconds... but that's it. CrazyCart is right about these carbs being BOGGY, and no amount of twisting the dials gives satisfactory results. I'm going to pull the carb apart again and double check the diaphram metering level. It said "Flush with the wall of the chamber, but I have some 1/16" protrusions that make up almost half of the chamber, so.... it's back to the drawing board. I really want to use the Tilly because it's readily adjustable. If I get a Mikuni it's a guessing game of buying and trading jets, messing with needle-slot settings, etc. I like the end results of a Mikuni, but tuning them is very "after a fashion".
At the end of the Vid I say something about TicTacs (?). Even I couldn't figure out what the H_LL I was referring to when I played it back, just moments later.
(I keep calling the TinyTack a TicTac).
Here are the measurements... better than I could've hoped to achieved by expert clutch tuning. (That's right- this was a Lucky Crap-Shoot... NOTHING MORE.)
1.) It'll idle down to about 1750 rpm without dying.
2.)The clutch starts pinching at 3000 rpm-ish. (The Tiny Tack has a slow response time, so anywhere from 2800rpm- 3100 rpm)
3.) Full belt advance (top of the primary clutch) is right at 6600 rpm-ish... again, 6500rpm to 6700 rpm or so. If you bring the rpm down to 6000, the belt starts dropping back down the pulley about a half inch. (12mm).
4.) Running weird. Doesn't want to idle below 1700, mid-opening the throttle cause a bog, slowly opening the throttle and then goosing it gets it going. (Gotta be a lean condition)
5.) Despite obviously running lean, it's running ...COLD. After running it easily for 10 minutes straight, there's not a spot (except for the exhaust manifold DUH) on the engine that you can't comfortably put your hand on. Even the cylinder and heads? Obviously you gotta load them down pretty good to generate some heat, but even the B/S motors get hot running/idling.
6.) Most of the noise is the mechanical noises of the motor itself. Put your hand over the exhaust, and it just takes a way the low "Hummmm-Duuuumm,-Dummm" noises. I know a lot of manufacturers jumped to liquid-cooling for a bunch of reasons,(MANY advantages) one of them being noise control.
Overall, I'm pretty impressed with the motor. Just needs its carb issues ironed out, and the narrower belt should arrive shortly.
Last edited:
kibble
I banned myself
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TicTac? 
Good work Jerry! I don't know if it's becasue I've only seen one tc in person, but the one I have, the belt is always spinning. The Driven pulley houses the clutch that engages when the RPM's get to a certain point. I don't know if that's how yours is though.
Here's two pics of the one I have. The first is the driver, it has no clutch at all.
The second it the driven. You can see the clutch shoes inside.
It looks to me like in your video the output of the driven pulley is not spinning as fast as the pulley itself is, it could just be the video though.
Good work Jerry! I don't know if it's becasue I've only seen one tc in person, but the one I have, the belt is always spinning. The Driven pulley houses the clutch that engages when the RPM's get to a certain point. I don't know if that's how yours is though.
Here's two pics of the one I have. The first is the driver, it has no clutch at all.
The second it the driven. You can see the clutch shoes inside.
It looks to me like in your video the output of the driven pulley is not spinning as fast as the pulley itself is, it could just be the video though.
Attachments
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driver.jpg -
Driven.jpg
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
That's a different one. Never seen one like that. Mine is like a TAV, where the clutch opens up far enough to leave the belt just sitting there until it gets pinched. I ordered too wide of a belt for the clutch (1 3/8" vs 1 1/4") and that's why it won't let go all the way. OOPS.
Oooooh.... just did a quick calculation.... belt won't fully advance until its doing 75mph. SCARY!
Jerryburger
Admiral Annoy
Okay- Knee-Deep in the DeBugging mode....
It turns out that for proper adjustment I need to get the right width belt for the primary (1 1/4") and then adjust the secondary so that the RIGHT belt rides about 1/16" - 1/8" above the top of the pulley (really?!?) and then make the necessary tension adjustments from there.
Adjusting the secondary "closed width" is as easy as removing a washer or two from between the sheeves..... then I have to make absolulutely sure the new belt doesn't drop too far down with the secondary sheeves fully open. If it does, as Crazycart warned, mayhem will ensue! Adjusting that part will require drilling a new hole and relocating the pin on the secondary movable sheeve. (Might have to buy/make a new secondary shaft!)
Well at least it sounds cool.....
It turns out that for proper adjustment I need to get the right width belt for the primary (1 1/4") and then adjust the secondary so that the RIGHT belt rides about 1/16" - 1/8" above the top of the pulley (really?!?) and then make the necessary tension adjustments from there.
Adjusting the secondary "closed width" is as easy as removing a washer or two from between the sheeves..... then I have to make absolulutely sure the new belt doesn't drop too far down with the secondary sheeves fully open. If it does, as Crazycart warned, mayhem will ensue! Adjusting that part will require drilling a new hole and relocating the pin on the secondary movable sheeve. (Might have to buy/make a new secondary shaft!)
Well at least it sounds cool.....
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