Lift rollers

Functional Artist

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So, with the bracket/holder thingy It's going to be 1.25 to 1.50 inches tall? or sumpthin like that? 1" rollers and bottom plate is 1/4-3/8? plus a little clearance. It's getting bolted in the center?
Solid plan, I don't see why it won't work.
Hey T,
Yup, should be ~1 1/2" tall

The brackets are to be welded together (metal-lergical-ly bonded)
...but/also, I'm gonna use (2) 3/8" nuts & bolts (per bracket) that'll go thru the brackets (mechanically bonded)
...& also be used to mount the lift rollers to the perches (dual purpose) ;)

:iagree: seems like a solid plan :thumbsup:
Just thinkin out loud....
Would a block of Teflon or Delrin work just as well?
Something like that would probably work :cheers2:
...the wear pads that the bed slides on, are made of some material like Teflon or Delrin

I didn't even think about a solution like that :huh:
...& they would be a lot easier ta make too :mad2:
I woulda slapped some grease on that chunk of oak and driven off into the sunset.
Yup, it's greased
...but, also, workin' itself loose :ack2:

That's why I went ta "rollers"
...because they shouldn't be able to transfer the lateral sliding action, of the spring, to the mount :2guns:
 

Functional Artist

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Probably, although those would be a bit hard.

It seems to me the issue is the OE bumpers are missing, pretty typical for them to rot away over time. The cushion the ends if the overload leaf sets when there's no load from thumping metal on metal when you hit a pothole, but act as a shim when there is enough load to engage the the overload leaves
Hey Rat,
Yup, them factory helper spring wear pads don't last very long (IMO they are just to keep the truck nice-n-quiet when new)

The towing equipment (boom/wheel-lift &/or flatbeds) usually weigh over a ton
...so, these trucks ride on them "helpers" pretty much full time
...& them "helpers" even do double-duty when/while towing ;)

So, while driving around the entire weight of the truck
...& also, the car/truck being towed is "sitting" on them "helper springs"
&
Then, when the suspension "flexes" (while traversing over bumps & such)
...the entire weight, of the truck & towee, is pushing down on them helper perches
...while also, tryin' ta work 'em back-n-forth (more weight = more gripping action)

So, solid steel rollers, seemed like a good solution (no gripping action) :thumbsup:
 

Master Hack

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I didn't even think about a solution like that
I enjoy looking at something that i have never seen before, l know nothing about, and then throwing out some half baked idea, just to see if i can add some confusion to the project. The fun begins when the original plan gets tossed out and the struggle to make the half baked thing work begins. I do it to myself all the time.
Don’t fall for it!
 

Functional Artist

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I enjoy looking at something that i have never seen before, l know nothing about, and then throwing out some half baked idea, just to see if i can add some confusion to the project. The fun begins when the original plan gets tossed out and the struggle to make the half baked thing work begins. I do it to myself all the time.
Don’t fall for it!
Hey T,

I try ta be "open" to other ideas
...& appreciate the input :cheers2:

I'm "knee deep" into this "concept"
...so, we'll see where it goes
...but, we "now" have a "back up plan"
how are you managing to drill, dem rollers on center all the way through?
This is NOT easy :mad2: :mad2:

Here is my little HF bench top drill press
SAM_2482 (1).JPG
...& I made a holding jig
SAM_2490 (1).JPG
Ta help hold the "rollers" upright while drillin'
SAM_2504 (1).JPG
I've been drillin' the "rollers" in increments
...& it's been goin pretty well :thumbsup:

After "markin" the center of the "rollers" with the DIY center marker
...I drilled 'em thru with a 1/4" bit (wore out/dulled (3) of them)
...then, drilled 'em thru with a 5/16" bit (just 1 bit did all 8 "rollers")
SAM_2515 (1).JPG
...& then, ta 3/8"
...but, found that when ya get over ~7/16" the drillin' bits seem ta "jam" alot :mad2::mad2:

I'ma workin' on the last cut (1/2")
...but, "theysa be fightin' me somethin ferce":furious2:
&
Yup, I've been usin' cuttin' fluid
SAM_2483 (1).JPG
 

Master Hack

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I have one of dem HF "drill press" thingys. I hate the SOB! its good for 1/4 inch bits but nothing more. The micro fractional HP motor has less power than an electric toothbrush. I've been tempted to just throw it in the trash on several occasions.
You can make it work, as you have done, but it works best if ya increase bit size in very small steps once ya get over 1/4.
Problem with my real press is it won't take bits smaller than 3/16, cuz it has a 5/8 chuck capacity. Its gear drive so it either hogs its way through or just snaps bits off. You are using the best drilling sauce!

Again your creativity overcomes!
 

Master Hack

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Here's a dirty little secret l dont often share, cuz its too entertaining watching someone struggle trying to drill hard material. I'll make an exception, not that it applies to what yer doing, but keep it in the file for future reference.

Carbide masonry bits are an excellent way to drill hardened material. I've even drilled leaf springs with 'em. Try it some time.

problem is, ya need a drill motor with some power.

DB47F317-4A06-4183-86B1-08EA886A02D3.jpeg
 

Rat

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I enjoy looking at something that i have never seen before, l know nothing about, and then throwing out some half baked idea, just to see if i can add some confusion to the project. The fun begins when the original plan gets tossed out and the struggle to make the half baked thing work begins. I do it to myself all the time.
Don’t fall for it!
I do that to myself constantly, that's how my 208 bike ended up with a second caliper on the rear rotor as a dedicated parking brake
 

Rat

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So, solid steel rollers, seemed like a good solution (no gripping action) :thumbsup:
Well at this stage, what you are doing makes a lot more sense. You are essentially replicating the action of the shackle pivot.

What I mean is the shackle must act as a hinge since the springs elongate as they compress flattening their arc. Since overloads are not physically attached to the chassis...rollers is definitely the low drag equivalent. I'd say they'll be noisy, but it's unlikely to hear them over the engine from that far back lol.

The only thing I'm seing of concern is friction damage to the bolts acting as axles for the rollers, I think the issue that will most likely arise is rearing the bore of the rollers and flattening the bolt they ride on even if greased liberally
 

Denny

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He could center drill the bolt half way and add a grease zerk so he could grease it with waterproof or moly grease.
 

Functional Artist

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I have one of dem HF "drill press" thingys. I hate the SOB! its good for 1/4 inch bits but nothing more. The micro fractional HP motor has less power than an electric toothbrush. I've been tempted to just throw it in the trash on several occasions.
You can make it work, as you have done, but it works best if ya increase bit size in very small steps once ya get over 1/4.
Problem with my real press is it won't take bits smaller than 3/16, cuz it has a 5/8 chuck capacity. Its gear drive so it either hogs its way through or just snaps bits off. You are using the best drilling sauce!

Again your creativity overcomes!
Gear drive? Holy sh*t :surrender:no wonder your breakin' drill bits

Yup :iagree: these little bench top units are mostly good for drillin' smaller holes

I've been usin' that little guy for 10 - 15 years
...& it does pretty good up to ~5/16"

Speakin' of that, last week, after drilling them rollers out to 5/16", I noticed that the chuck kept jamming up
...while trying to change drill bits

It got to the point where it would only adjust to a little bit bigger than, 5/16"
...& then, just a little bit smaller, than 5/16"

Upon examination it looks like one of them (3) "grippers" inside of the chuck ain't slidin' too good :furious2:

Yup, I lubed the crap out of it
...& worked on "manually" forcing he "gripper" to move, with its counterparts
...but, It still wasn't cooperating too much :ack2:

So, I was a thinkin' Ima need a new chuck
...but, then thought "Hmmm, I wonder if there are any used drill presses available, here in Toledo, on the FB marketplace, for a good deal" :unsure:

So, I looked & found a bench top unit with a supposedly bad cord ($30.00)
...the ad said "it will work if you squeeze the cord"

So, I sent 'em a message "Is this still available?"
...& kept looking

Then, I found an older stand up unit, supposedly works good "just don't need anymore" ($100.00 OBO)
...so, I sent 'em a "Is this still available?" message too

A couple of hours later, they both sent "yes, it is" messages :wai:

So, I went & looked at them
...& yup, I'ma gonna give both of these orphans a new home :sifone:
SAM_2541 (1).JPG
They were pretty firm on the $30.00 for the bench top unit
It a Tool Shop 5- speed unit with a 1/2" capacity chuck
SAM_2543 (1).JPG
Another view
SAM_2545 (1).JPG
I was able to get the stand up unit for $75.00
It's also, made by Tool Shop & it's a 16-speed with a 5/8" capacity chuck
SAM_2542 (1).JPG
Another view
SAM_2544 (1).JPG

They are both older units
...but, work good
...& I have already put a couple of hours on both of them, while drillin' these rollers ;)
 

Rat

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Did you have to squeeze the cord on the smaller one?
Probably just C-clamped it to the bench or stuck a pair if vicegrips on it 🤣

I love cheap or free older powertools that are just a matter of replacing a ratty cord because the owner is to yella to do it. I got an old polished aircraft aluminum Craftsman drill that way once... and that drill was a monster that would easily break a wrist if the bit didn't snap first
 

Master Hack

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They are both older units
...but, work good
...& I have already put a couple of hours on both of them, while drillin' these rollers
Your life just got easier! You'll never use the HF press again!

my $100 find
1.5 HP 240v 3ph
8 speed gear drive
Power down feed

ya can clamp a part up, set the stop
Turn on the down feed and go have a beer.
It'll stop when done.

19949422-98A5-4E7A-A5BF-D666BA19C3D9.jpeg22307EB2-85F8-494B-97B5-7DEAA21AF669.jpeg

edit:
Left a zero off the price.
I was about 10 YO when this thing was made.
 
Last edited:

Functional Artist

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Did you have to squeeze the cord on the smaller one?
Hey Denny,

Nope!
I couldn't find a bad spot in the cord (ta fix)
...so, I plugged 'er in, to do more sleuthing
...but, it seems ta work fine :unsure: &/or :thumbsup:
my $100 find
1.5 HP 240v 3ph
8 speed gear drive
Power down feed

ya can clamp a part up, set the stop
Turn on the down feed and go have a beer.
It'll stop when done.

View attachment 148221View attachment 148222

edit:
Left a zero off the price.
I was about 10 YO when this thing was made.
Hey T,
That is a NICE piece of equipment :thumbsup:
Your life just got easier! You'll never use the HF press again!
:iagree:
...but, thinkin' about future projects (that may require multiple holes)

I can set (1) (probably the smaller Tool Shop) drill press up with (let's say) a 1/4" bit
...then, set up the HF drill press with 5/16" bit (since the chuck is "stuck" around that size anyways)
...& the bigger (stand up) drill press with...what ever...if necessary

Kinda like an "assembly line" where ya can just move from "station" to "station"
...without messin' with drill bits (in the middle of a job)
...& a bunch of re-chuckin' (for every bit change) :sifone:

Plus, this will help "spread the load"
...so, no single press will have to "bear" the entire burden (of a job)
...& the press('s) (motors & drive train) will have a chance to cool down (when ya move on to the next press) :banana:
 

Master Hack

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(since the chuck is "stuck" around that size anyways
Replace the chuck with a Jacobs chuck. It should be a common morse taper. There is a screw inside that secures it. Remove the screw heat the chuck a little bit and tap it off. ( notice I did not say beat it off, for obvious reasons)
Having multiple presses is very handy, for reasons you just stated. I thinned the herd from 6 (a few years ago) to 3 now.
I may reach my patients limit with the HF POS one day and drop it in the trash....
 

Functional Artist

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Because we’re a bunch of preverts and would roast you for it?
Yup, what he said :iagree:

Ya gotta be careful, around here

Like, I remember when (someone :unsure:)
...who said "I always puts lady's panty hose on, before riding my go kart in the desert" :innocent::devil2:

Then, had ta go to the trouble (& mild embarrassment) ta explain (to us)
...that he didn't actually "wear" the panty hose, himself :roflol:
...but, put the panty hose over the air cleaner (ta help keep sand out) :thumbsup:
 

Functional Artist

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Finally done machinin' :mad2:

Tray 'o parts
SAM_2674 (1).JPG
Assembled (bolted thru the rollers & also, clamped with vise grips) for weldin'

* Notice I included a washer?
It's so, I could bolt everything together good-n-tight, for weldin'
...then, I'll leave the washers out during final assembly
...so, the rollers can "spin freely" :2guns:
SAM_2678 (1).JPG
Ready, set, welded
SAM_2680 (1).JPGClose up, of the weld
SAM_2681 (1).JPG
Close up of it cleaned up
SAM_2683 (1).JPG
I must say "not bad" for a little HF unit :2guns:
SAM_2684 (1).JPG
The gangs all here :wai:
SAM_2689 (1).JPG
Weldin' tip of the day:

Besides your weldin' gloves, wear a "sleeve" of some kind (even in summer) to help protect your arm(s)
I use a cut-off "leg" section of an old pair of Denim pants, as a quick on/quick off sleeve :cornut:
SAM_2686 (1).JPG
...& it's kinda stylish too
SAM_2687 (1).JPG
 
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