Lift rollers

Functional Artist

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I'va been thinkin' about makin' some "rolling lifters" for my flatbed tow truck
...outta some steel rod
...& some angle iron

So, I rounded up a piece of 1" steel rod
SAM_2462 (1).JPG
I marked it in 3" sections
...then, wrapped some masking tape around the rod
...to "highlight" the cut line
SAM_2463 (1).JPG
...& to help ensure an even cut
SAM_2466 (1).JPG
I used a cut-off wheel on the grinder
...periodically spun the piece, while cuttin'
...& it turned out kinda like this ;)
SAM_2468 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Please 'splain. Wadda they do, besides roll and lift?
Hey T,

Sorry for the delay (had ta work at my "day job") ;)

Back story:
I wanted to add ~1' of lift, to the rear of my flatbed tow truck
SAM_2518 (1).JPG
So, I installed some 1" (thick) x 3" x 3" solid steel "blocks" to the helper spring "perches" (I guess ya call 'em)
SAM_2520 (1).JPG
But, the lateral movement of the springs seems ta be "workin' 'em loose"
...& I ended up loosing (1) :ack2:

So, I temporarily installed a 1" thick x 3" x 4" piece of Oak, until I could get a replacement
SAM_2524 (1).JPG
Simply secured, in place, with a couple of 3/4" drywall screws
SAM_2525 (1).JPG
...& I added some grease in between the "spacers" & the springs, ta help "lubricate" the situation :cheers2:
SAM_2519 (1).JPG
But/then, the next day, another one went AWOL :eek:
SAM_2521 (1).JPG
So, now I'ma thinkin' that I need some "lifts" that'll "roll" :sifone:
 

Rat

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Id just flip the rear shackle so the spring is is below the pivot bushing instead of above, the replace the the overload spring saddle bushings with those of the appropriate hight.

Overload springs (aka helper springs🙄) aren't even supposed to touch anything until you have reached the point the mainsprings have began to sag X amount under load at which point depending on the vehicle the contact a padded saddle or the frame rail itself with a heavy bushing on the leaf ends instead.

That metal on metal bullshıt is not the answer and is going to do little more than one hell of a racket
 

Functional Artist

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So you are talking about “self aligning cylinderical spring rate enhancers”?
what gunna keep (dem doggies ) roll’in?
Hey T,

That is quite the fancy name
...but, I guess "if" ya wanna call 'em that :thumbsup:
SAM_2478 (1).JPG
Roller Brackets
I'ma gonna use a (2) piece design for the roller brackets
...'cause I don't have the equipment ta bend steel this thick/heavy duty

* Notice we have (2) different brackets
...with the roller "axle" holes on (2) different "planes"
SAM_2479 (1).JPG
So, when the brackets (left & right) are "stacked" the "axle" for the rollers will be horizontal
SAM_2481 (1).JPG
Still lots more work ta do (those are only 1/4" "axle" bolts)
...but, I'ma thinkin' we gonna need at least 1/2" "axle" bolts

Something like this is what I have in mind :sifone:
SAM_2510 (1).JPG
I doubled 'em up to help spread the "load" ;)
SAM_2511 (1).JPG
Another view
SAM_2512 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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how are you managing to drill, dem rollers on center all the way through?
Had ta do some DIY sh*t
...& it's a "work in progress" :cheers2:

First, I just tried measuring, marking, punching
...but, the results seemed kinda "iffy" :eek:
SAM_2488 (1).JPG
So, then I used a DIY center'er :thumbsup:
Which is a 1" x 1/4" slug, from some other project
SAM_2500 (1).JPG
Next, I drilled a 1" hole, in a piece of 1 1/2" MDF
...& "popped" the "slug" in
...for drilling/marking the center
SAM_2495 (1).JPG
Then, just inserted a roller from the bottom
...& used the "slug"
...& a 1/4" drill bit
...ta "start" the hole(s) ;)
Before
SAM_2499 (1).JPG
After :2guns:
SAM_2501 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

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Id just flip the rear shackle so the spring is is below the pivot bushing instead of above, the replace the the overload spring saddle bushings with those of the appropriate hight.

Overload springs (aka helper springs🙄) aren't even supposed to touch anything until you have reached the point the mainsprings have began to sag X amount under load at which point depending on the vehicle the contact a padded saddle or the frame rail itself with a heavy bushing on the leaf ends instead.

That metal on metal bullshıt is not the answer and is going to do little more than one hell of a racket
Hey Rat,

Thanks for the input :cheers2:
...but, I'd be leary about changing the design of the suspension
...the spring/shackles weren't designed to "work like that"
...& also, looks like that concept would provide too much "lift" (maybe ~3" - 4")

My idea is to not try-n-re-design the suspension
...but, to simply add a 1" "spacer"
...to "trick" the springs into thinking the "roller lifters" are just part of the existing spring helper perches ;)

This truck has a 14,500 GVW
...it rides good & carries weight well

But, when I tow (lets say) an old Caddy (2 - 2 1/2 tons or 4,000lbs - 5,000lbs.) or even a newer Escalade (same)
...the rear of the truck rides a bit lower (~1") than I would like
...&/so, I was thinkin' a 1" "lift" should/would help "level 'er out", when loaded :thumbsup:
 

Master Hack

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This works well for locating center:


The problem might be keeping the bit from wandering as you drill through 3 inches.

But your ingenuity amazes me...
 

Master Hack

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So, with the bracket/holder thingy It's going to be 1.25 to 1.50 inches tall? or sumpthin like that? 1" rollers and bottom plate is 1/4-3/8? plus a little clearance. It's getting bolted in the center?
Solid plan, I don't see why it won't work.

Just thinkin out loud....
Would a block of Teflon or Delrin work just as well?

I woulda slapped some grease on that chunk of oak and driven off into the sunset.
 

Rat

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Just thinkin out loud....
Would a block of Teflon or Delrin work just as well?
Probably, although those would be a bit hard.

It seems to me the issue is the OE bumpers are missing, pretty typical for them to rot away over time. The cushion the ends if the overload leaf sets when there's no load from thumping metal on metal when you hit a pothole, but act as a shim when there is enough load to engage the the overload leaves
 
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