kap'n, why the jackshaft? issue of engine height? depending on the mower's battery it may have too many volts/amps. while car batteries can be used to jump a bike off, are not recommended for running them. i'm guessing you didn't get the ignition switch with the bike? some guys will put a push button on the steering wheel support and eliminate the solenoid ($45-$150) if going with a moto battery, i suggest the agm or sealed battery because of sloshing. i hate having to do maintenance. (remembering to check electrolyte levels is too bothersome for me) btw, a decent mx bike will feel more powerful than your kz4. quite possible the only way to wheelie that hunk was to dump the clutch. they will claim x hp, but when compared to smaller lighter less powerful vehicles, they were slugs. anyway, have fun!!!
KZ400 Shifter kart project
- Thread starter Kaptain Krunch
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Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
i payed $40 for the whole bike, it had everything but the speedo and tach cables. It had push button ignition stock, so thats probably what i'll do on the kart. The jackshaft is because i cant run the chain directly down to the axle because i need that sidecover for the clutch actuator. This thing will have plenty of power, its rated at 36hp and is geared lower than the bike was. The bike weighed around the same weight as the kart and had great acceleration. I get what your saying, a 250 motocross bike would have the same power, but good luck finding one for $40.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
my cover has a decently strong guard that protects the engine if the chain brakes (almost 1/8" steel), so i should be fine. Yea, i dont think it was specifically the kawasaki, it was probably just the fact that the yz is a tuned motocross bike, and the kawa is just an induro.
probably, but kz's are like the enduros. where as the mx'ers are like crotch rockets. they more than likely didn't maximize ratios, or even spend much time on flow or getting the power to the pavement. i'll see if i can dig up specs on standing 1/4, and such.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
The specs i know about it are, 24ft lbs of torque, 36hp, 8.5k redline, single overhead cam, its 6 speed, and the bike was geared for 96 ish. I geared the kart for around 75, so i should have more than enough power. When i took the bike for a spin (after sitting for more than 10 years, last inspection was 85'), it had some decent power on untuned carbs, very good acceleration, and it would spin the tires very easily.
ok the best achieved 1/4 was 14.26@90.48? i'm not saying that they don't have decent power, just low power when compared to almost everything else. they were touted as cheap and economical, not anything to get in a fuss over. have you looked for aftermarket cam, ign advancer, upgrades? you may find bearings and other parts wear out quicker.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
I dont see any point in upgrading this engine at the moment, its already got plenty of power for my use. This is a small kart, no suspension or anything, and im not looking for uncontrollable power, just some 1st gear burnouts and make some speeds at around 50.
Rickracer
RM250 Race Kart Driver
Yep, my CBR 600 has the same type carbs, they are a BI*TCH to get working right with those pod style filters, if you can use the stock airbox, do it, and put a stock replacement K&N filter in IT. 
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
Yep, my CBR 600 has the same type carbs, they are a BI*TCH to get working right with those pod style filters, if you can use the stock airbox, do it, and put a stock replacement K&N filter in IT.
I figured since i already changed the exhaust, i would have to rejet/adjust the carbs anyways, i'll see what i can do and if worst comes to worst i'll have to use a mikuni or two.
So i picked up a chopsaw today, nice makita for only $50, so that should make things go a little faster. I gotta work out my steering and brakes. I also picked up a nice shiny button for push button start.
Rickracer
RM250 Race Kart Driver
I haven't done the pods myself, mine has a stock replacement style K&N, but I know a bunch of folks that have tried the pods on vacuum diaphragm style carbs and eventually they all give up and go back to the airbox, I try to learn from other people's mistakes, it's a lot cheaper, but sometimes I buy cheaper because they can't figure it out and are too proud or too "know-it-all" to ask me, then I make it work,
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
I finished up the steering, i decided to completely re-do it. I already had some 5/8" ID DOM tubing (steering shaft is 5/8) so that make everything a lot easier. I extended the steering shaft with the tube, made a bushing, and my pitman arm with it. I also squared away the rear axle for the most part, locked it in place and added the drum brake that i will be using as a parking brake. I also ran the chain, i had exactly 1 link to spare haha.
Steering setup
even added a grease zerk.
Heres where i extended the shaft
Drum Brake (parking brake)
I still need two #50 half links, and i havent bolted down both the pillow blocks yet.
I also made an adapter so i can bolt two banjo fittings together for my brake line, i could have just made something simple, but i was having fun with the milling machine at school haha.
Steering setup
even added a grease zerk.
Heres where i extended the shaft
Drum Brake (parking brake)
I still need two #50 half links, and i havent bolted down both the pillow blocks yet.
I also made an adapter so i can bolt two banjo fittings together for my brake line, i could have just made something simple, but i was having fun with the milling machine at school haha.
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
I got ace hardware 5 minutes from me, they have a decent selection of halflinks...at twice the price of other places haha.
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