Kart Klinic 32 Hot Rod

[Lokis_Tyro]

No offense, but 12 degrees of camber is going to make it look like the suspension has collapsed. Maybe take a look at the geometry of a Legends car? Are you using scooter tires in the front?

 

[firemanjim]

No offense, but 12 degrees of camber is going to make it look like the suspension has collapsed. Maybe take a look at the geometry of a Legends car? Are you using scooter tires in the front?

Yep, sure am.... 17" tall. After "hearing" you say it that way, yeah, I think you're right. I can see the wheels leaning WAY too much. I remember reading somewhere that 7* was ideal for your "typical" kart tire. I was thinking that with all the weight behind me,the skinny tires need all the help they could get....
I'm gonna look into the legends... That might actually be where I read about the 7*.... ?
You didn't offend me, nor was your comment offensive / derogatory. No need to apologize.....

 

[Lokis_Tyro]

If 12° is what you need to run then by all means do it!

Did you inquire about Jr Dragster slicks? The scooter tires are going to be super sketchy in any sort of gravel or debris on the road imo. At least they are when I ride my scooter and hit gravel. Even a single stone causes them to jump or skip since the contact patch is..Idk..half an inch? Maybe a little more.

 

[firemanjim]

No no..... You got it wrong. The axle will be welded to the spindle barrel at (?)*'s, but the spindle will be tilted that much when mounted. The tire will be perfectly upright going straight, it's when the wheel turns, that the angle comes into play. At 12* , both my wheels would tilt to an angle like in that pic, but both pointing the same direction. I'm not dumb enough to think you could realistically set up the front (or rear for that matter) like that. Besides, that would not work with the fiberglass body.....
This is for street only. Won't be on gravel or dirt roads. Engine sits too low to be that dumb. Street as in paved asphalt or concrete. This ain't a play thing, it's a "play pretty"..... I have plenty of other karts to tear up riding on dirt and gravel. And being that there is 2 tires in front, versus 1 on a scooter, I'm fairly certain the margin of stability has been greatly increased.

 

[Young One With A Manco]

At this point cant you just fab up a piece of metal with a bolt pattern that will fit some car steelies or maybe even normal car rims?

 

[Half-breeder]

I run 15* on 15* and have a 1-2* camber straight. Turns are slightly difficult but VERY responsive(especially at high speeds). Seeing as that your not racing this build... Id stick w/ the 10* caster which should be 10* camber(for straight up n down wheels), anything more and youll end up w/ IMO 'useless' camber and annoying caster. Anything less and youll wish you had more and possibly go straight when tryin to turn.

 

[firemanjim]

Got a little done today..... Engine mounted . engine braces in. Pivot tubes welded in, and line up perfectly with the center of the sprocket.
Swing arm is going to be SHORT... Engine sits in pass compartment 4"... I can make that work with a 4" wide shelf for speakers and fresh air vents. The seat can slope in more for that relaxed / reclined position.
I'll post more verbiage soon....

 

[2SlickNick]

yay yay!

 

[karte_m0lim]

Nice work Jim...
Somehow I miss this part of forum...

 

[Half-breeder]

Not that you were gonna forget to fab one... but IMHO... dont forget to configure a heat shield for that exhaust, and maybe a spring attached, plastic, air dam, underneath, to deflect moving ground air up into the engine area...(like on cars w/ no grills... an ole Saturn is a good example/part supply)? Maybe something that airflow from underneath vents the heat back n out... maybe fan powered louvers in the trunk-lid? Them air cooled engines seem to 'need' airflow to cool... and I 'can' see limitations w/ that in a semi enclosed coffin... er... kart.

That is unless youre plannin on leaving the lid off... then iggy this reply.

 

[Young One With A Manco]

Fun fact:
The original Fiat 500's raced with the engine bay open. Story has it that one time one overheated, so they opened the engine bay. Not so sure about that... But they realized that if they open the rear trunk/hood (where the engine was) they could achieve greater speed through corners because of the downforce.

You might get cooling and added downforce if you just put your trunk lid/hood straight out off the back...

 

[karte_m0lim]

I had few of thise, not fiat but zastava, known better as manufacturer of yugo

There is video:http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pQf81tj_oa0

I also use to open hud...
But you must know that this car has radiator inside with vent and blow air in this small space, so opening hud really help to stop overheating.
It also use only few liters of water for cooling, very poor pump and air intake was underfloor.
I do not know about DF but this stock car had 18 Hp engine...
Abarth version were pimped to 75 HP...
Sorry Jim for offtopic...

 

[Young One With A Manco]

Nice!

Now...

 

[firemanjim]

THAT is one cute little car! I'd bring the white one home in a second! I've driven yugo's..... In fact, I believe it was a 3 cylinder yugo that had to rush me to a hospital once. Could have ran faster...... NO, I mean I, myself, could have ran faster......
Karte, if I ever hit the lotto,or win a free trip, I want to come see Croatia. Every pic or video I see is full of mountain tops and just really beautiful scenery. I hope life there is as peaceful as I imagine...... Gotta be kinda like here though.... Crazy people are every where.... http://www.9news.com.au/world/2014/09/30/19/28/tiny-car-leaps-of-half-raised-bridge-in-croatia

 

[Poboy kartman]

I've never been to Croatia. ...but while this crazy person can't be everywhere. ...Kart's got my back over there. ....

The Croatian "Poboy"......

 

[firemanjim]

It has recently come to my attention, that even the smartest man can be wrong once or twice. A genius, can folly.... A brainiac, can blunder....
Since I'm none of those..... I really screwed up....
O man, where do I begin? Ok so,... I said " I do..."
No really, I'm kind of off because I didn't put enough thought into drive line.... Here is the first problem...
#1 I have a 16" tall wheel mocked up with a 3/8" rod as the axle. I centered the wheel in the wheel well opening. Then squared up the "axle"... I'll be If I only can come up with 6" between center line of output shaft and axle..... MAYBE with the pillow blocks on the bottom, I'll gain an inch or so, but CRAP! Now what? The drive sprocket is 2.625" in diameter. So 4.5" diameter is about the biggest sprocket I can currently run.

#2 I can only run a sprocket that size. Ok, well what size sprocket do I want anyway? This is where I could use the help of you smart types (SID...... ) ...... The bike the engine came off of had 24" tall tires. I don't know the tooth count for driven but the drive is 15 and the bike had a claimed top speed of 70 or 75 mph (can't remember, but it's 17.8hp @8000rpm'?') Going from a 2' tire to only 16" , means a gear ratio change if I wanted the same performance. Will I need to go up in driven tooth count? Or down? I think I can get 13-14-16 tooth drivers as well. What's really gonna be my best option? If I got to go bigger than a 4.5" sprocket, I'm screwed. My only recourse would be jackshaft it, and put the axle sprocket a little more to the center. A LOT of work to make that fit and work.
#3 ok,so maybe I get the gearing figured out and proceed with a suspension rear. If I'm using heim ends as the pivot, what is to keep the whole rear end from shifting side to side? Will I have to install a pan hard bar as well? (crap!) this was never considered on the design of the big boy version because that one uses a vw style trailing arm and irs. The more I think about it, the more it makes me want to say forget the suspension idea..... BUT that's lame....
I was planning on running some tube up and over the rear end and sort of frame up the rear. Maybe I could incorporate the panhard bar......
As you can see, I'm kinda in a rutt. It's not coming together as easy as I thought. I SHOULD have sat down and planned this out thoroughly, like the other. I would have foreseen these tiny set backs and done away with them.
What I could have done, was borrow the gearbox design of the BBV32 and trade out the uni joints for a solid live axle. Then turn the whole assemble engine included, into a swingarm.....Nahh....
IDK.........

 

[Young One With A Manco]

Do you think were actually gonna read all of that???
Just kidding.
All i can say is keep on keepin on Jim! Well... Once you figure these problems out that is!

 

[n3480h]

If I'm using heim ends as the pivot, what is to keep the whole rear end from shifting side to side?

I love it when you talk dirty.

Maybe I missed something: Why would you use Heim bearings? Why not automotive wheel bearings or some other (relatively large) I.D. bearings, or even standard pillow block bearings with a straight through solid shaft at the front of the swingarm?

 

[Half-breeder]

It has recently come to my attention, that even the smartest man can be wrong once or twice. A genius, can folly.... A brainiac, can blunder....
Since I'm none of those..... I really screwed up....
O man, where do I begin? Ok so,... I said " I do..."
No really, I'm kind of off because I didn't put enough thought into drive line.... Here is the first problem...
#1 I have a 16" tall wheel mocked up with a 3/8" rod as the axle. I centered the wheel in the wheel well opening. Then squared up the "axle"... I'll be If I only can come up with 6" between center line of output shaft and axle..... MAYBE with the pillow blocks on the bottom, I'll gain an inch or so, but CRAP! Now what? The drive sprocket is 2.625" in diameter. So 4.5" diameter is about the biggest sprocket I can currently run.

#2 I can only run a sprocket that size. Ok, well what size sprocket do I want anyway? This is where I could use the help of you smart types (SID...... ) ...... The bike the engine came off of had 24" tall tires. I don't know the tooth count for driven but the drive is 15 and the bike had a claimed top speed of 70 or 75 mph (can't remember, but it's 17.8hp @8000rpm'?') Going from a 2' tire to only 16" , means a gear ratio change if I wanted the same performance. Will I need to go up in driven tooth count? Or down? I think I can get 13-14-16 tooth drivers as well. What's really gonna be my best option? If I got to go bigger than a 4.5" sprocket, I'm screwed. My only recourse would be jackshaft it, and put the axle sprocket a little more to the center. A LOT of work to make that fit and work.
#3 ok,so maybe I get the gearing figured out and proceed with a suspension rear. If I'm using heim ends as the pivot, what is to keep the whole rear end from shifting side to side? Will I have to install a pan hard bar as well? (crap!) this was never considered on the design of the big boy version because that one uses a vw style trailing arm and irs. The more I think about it, the more it makes me want to say forget the suspension idea..... BUT that's lame....
I was planning on running some tube up and over the rear end and sort of frame up the rear. Maybe I could incorporate the panhard bar......
As you can see, I'm kinda in a rutt. It's not coming together as easy as I thought. I SHOULD have sat down and planned this out thoroughly, like the other. I would have foreseen these tiny set backs and done away with them.
What I could have done, was borrow the gearbox design of the BBV32 and trade out the uni joints for a solid live axle. Then turn the whole assemble engine included, into a swingarm.....Nahh....
IDK.........

Now you can see why 'my' project is still in the mockup stage, after 2 months of mental trial n errors.

IMO, if you only have a limited space for the axle gear... then a JS is probably the smartest course of action. I know w/ the majority of JS scenarios, the idea is to gain torque and drop top speed... but, you 'can' use a JS to compensate for the lacking of space for the desired ratio aswell. Plus, using a JS can make gear changing alot easier vs removing the axle, wheel, collars. Also, if done correctly(the right T#'s) you can make the kart go fast or climb a wall, 'just' by swappin the 2 JS gears...

... my .02cents worth.

 

[karte_m0lim]

well, @Jim, one guy always before bedtime was praying: oh dear Lord, let me won a lottery...
after many many years, God told him: pay the f@@@@@@ ticket already!!!

but, hope to see you soon

@Poboy, KARTE means ticket , karte_m0lim means Tickets please, phrase bus ticket control use to use , as I am working in public transport company ..

no, I am not a driver .. or ticket control .... I am IT ...

@Jim , can you give as all data you got , so I will try to calculate yours sporcket ..

so you have engine rpm, top speed, sprocket tooth, ...

org tyres dim , yours tyres dim will be needed and your wanted top speed.

I'll probably make mistake in calcualtions, it's not on purpose ...

edit: bridge jumper was lady, not man... she told that she didn't se red light and bridge rising cose of Sun ...