Karl's kart V2

[landuse]

Dang that looks good!!! Well done!

 

[karl]

Dang that looks good!!! Well done!

Thanks, cant wait to drive this thing

The tires I had on the back belongs to the mud mower, I did not want to use 8in rims front and back, and the 12in are too big, so I found a pair of 10's (with beadlocks!). That should make the sidewall to wheel ratio more even front to back.

The tires I chose are kenda's speed racer in 18x10-10

I dont know what I will use on the front, the current are 16x6.50-8 , any suggestions on tread that will look good/ match the rear?

 

[karl]

Parts!

All 8lbs of the massive 54 tooth sprocket is in

The other two pillow blocks and #50 chain will be sourced from my local hardware this weekend. Sunday is the only day I can make it up there.

The real question is, what color should I paint it? I was kinda thinking orange but Idk.

 

[Kartorbust]

Go orange with black accents.

 

[J.S.@SMS]

I think you should paint it something that screams "LOOK AT ME." Something like the black accents like Kartorbust suggsted, but on "go green" paint. It's a classic ish color that isn't quite as obnoxious as orange.

(image borrowed from internet.)

 

[Texan]

Go orange with black accents.

Well since he is in Ohio, it would match the Bengals color scheme, which I always thought was one of the cooler looking team colors in the NFL.

 

[karl]

I do like the bright green idea

It will be a tough choice, probably will end up based on what I can find cheaper

Thanks for the input!

Hopefully tomorrow , a friend is going to chuck up a CV tech trail bloc clutch with a tapered shaft , well, receptacle, and turn it to 1 1/8 /drill key.

It is already set for the RPM range I need, and used on 1000cc side by sides, a superior clutch to the 94c duster, and would save me alot.

 

[Kartorbust]

Too bad CVTech doesn't post their prices, it would make things a bit easier.

 

[karl]

Too bad CVTech doesn't post their prices, it would make things a bit easier.

Trust me, it's not cheap.

They engineer/supply clutches to manufactures, not really in the market for diy folk.

The clutch I have is a used take off from a cub cadet volunteer 4x4 utility vehicle, that was conveniently powered by an EFI kohler command , the fancy version of my powerplant. From what I seen the power handling of this clutch should exceed 50hp.

 

[Kartorbust]

You have any specs on what kind of ratios it has?

 

[karl]

You have any specs on what kind of ratios it has?

That is a tough one, and will vary depending on the driven pulley used.

On the cub UTV it looks like they used the lp2/3 driven

The final ratios will be dependent on the manufactures needs, as a clutch designed for a cub cadet will vary from can am's requirements. They spec min and max diameters (not engagement range, but OD) for each series of clutch they "offer".

That is why it is hard to find exact specs, only a couple engineers at cub probably know the details.

Check out their R and D site.

http://www.cvtech-rd.com/en/client/pagesoussection4cb3.html?clef2=3

http://www.cvtech-rd.com/en/client/TRAILBLOC-ANG_214553ac4.pdf?page=21&clef=11&clef2=2

You can apply with an online form , fill in your vehicle weight, power, wheels, production volume , lifespan, ect and they will engineer a clutch to your exact needs

Kinda cool, but out of reach.

They also supply clutch's for Mini-Baja competitions, might be worth looking into.

 

[karl]

Brake!

A rarity for my builds, might need it for this one

Caliper and master are from a KX250

Drilled rotor is good for +5hp

The pedal side will be a bit more difficult , lever/linkage to mount the master where I need.

 

[karl]

Here is my way over engineered pedal linkage.

The pedal originally pivoted directly on a 3/8 rod, so I drilled it out to 3/4 , and welded in a tube. The ID was reamed to fit 3/8 x 1/2in bushings, and the lever part got the same treatment with a 3/8 x 1/2 sleeve bushing.

The linkage is 1/4in water pipe with nuts welded on, to fit 3/8 -24 rod ends. Trying to make everything rebuild-able. Just need to pick up a bushing for the master and brakes are done.

 

[karl]

Got the brake done, touch the pedal with a pinky and the caliper locks solid, let go and the pedal springs back on its own and spins free, perfect.

I got the clutch back, it was bored nice and true, but accidentally went .040 over, no complaints, so I came up with a plan.

I will use a shim to make it fit tight on the crank, and buy a 1 1/8 keyed sleeve adapter. It will be cut down to fit the extra inch of crankshaft , and the key slot on the crank ground to the end square, so a full inch of key stock can be used.

This will be assembled on a spare crankshaft, with the shim in place, clamped down with a 7/16 bolt in the end, and the keyed sleeve adapter will get tig welded to the clutches inner hub.

If my explanation does not make sense do not worry, It will work.

Motor plate is burned in, getting close to paint!

 

[karl]

I will use a shim to make it fit tight on the crank, and buy a 1 1/8 keyed sleeve adapter. It will be cut down to fit the extra inch of crankshaft

This should clear things up , .015 makes it fit snug. Bolt it down and weld it, done.

So now I can burn in the jack shaft and make something happen.

 

[karl]

Merry Christmas!

 

[gegcorp2012]

Wow, that motor sounds great!

Keep on plumbing and wrenching.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

 

[karl]

Keep on plumbing and wrenching.

Thanks, hopefully it will make some boost!

Edit- holy crap this karts gonna be quick

BOOOOOSSSTTT!

 

[karl]

Jackshaft parts are in, getting dangerously close to a test rip.

 

[karl]

Orange!