Karl's kart V2

[karl]

Ramps! They work

Seat! It slides, very nice

Especially when you need to pull the spark plug on cyl 1

Also got an old comet/ salsbury driven clutch, 1in bore 1/4 key,
10 3/4 diameter, 1 3/16 belt. It seems to resemble a 100d.

So I will probably go with a 94c duster driver.

 

[karl]

Plenty of room! First pic is with the seat all the way back.

Of course once I start moving again, I ran out of tubing.

Another steel run

But I think I got the powertrain set, 1 in jackshaft for the clutch, then the chain can go directly to the axle uninterrupted, 10 teeth to 54 , #50 roller.

 

[karl]

Starting to look kart like

Of course it rained real good and the garage flooded, so I spent half the day reworking the drainage situation, then got it all dry, then it flooded again

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Underwater welding!!

 

[Kartorbust]

Look at it this way, iron oxide (rust) seems to be a natural weld, so I mean could just let it rust together and it'll be a huge pain for it to break apart. (If people cannot see this as sarcasm, you need to reevaluate your presence).

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

 

[karl]

Underwater welding!!

Does that mean I should fix this


Rust adhesion , heck yeah throw the welder out, no need anymore

 

[Kartorbust]

Rust is nature's welds, just send it.

 

[karl]

just send it.

Yeah Larry


Tie rods!

I did not want to use the junk 3/8 thingys that pop out,

So I got these 7/16 joints that are used on power steering garden/compact tractors, made in japan , will outlive the kart most likely.

 

[Kartorbust]

Last thing you want is for a rod end to break and send you into a curb at full speed. What you have for the rod itself?

 

[karl]

Last thing you want is for a rod end to break and send you into a curb at full speed. What you have for the rod itself?

I have two that will be cut to size.


I cooked the 357cc, about a mile out started losing power, by the time I got home my back was warm, the plates on the block were discolored and oil was boiling from the crankcase gasket

Made it home, did not like it.

Im sure the balance shaft and governor removal did not help , oh well was fun , sent

 

[J.S.@SMS]

I don’t remember you mentioning a 357, what was it on. Either way, it’d be a good time to swap a 420 on there.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Post #29 here: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=40377&page=2
It was on the live axle delete kart that he had the opposed twin on. That thing was EPIC with the twin!

 

[karl]

One tire fire!

I don’t remember you mentioning a 357, what was it on. Either way, it’d be a good time to swap a 420 on there.

Thats what Im thinking, cant wait to see how it preforms compared to the 357, should definitely do some skids. Might put a marine cam and some other goodies in it.

 

[Budget GoKart]

almost ready to drive it karl just a bit more work lol!

 

[karl]

almost ready to drive it karl just a bit more work lol!

Still some challenges ahead, and I have to spend $250 for the clutch driver

I got some 3/4 by 7/8 oilite bushings for the steering shaft, and ground/reamed some spacers to hold the bushings nice and snug.

However the reddy heater's spark plug broke down , and would not stay lit, so that stopped tonight's efforts.

 

[Kartorbust]

This is why if the igniter on a heater goes out, my dad and I will use a long match. Granted we only do that with Mr. Heater sunflower type ones mostly, not sure how it'll do on a torpedo type. Any idea on cam duration you'll go with if you choose a marine cam?

 

[karl]

This is why if the igniter on a heater goes out, my dad and I will use a long match. Granted we only do that with Mr. Heater sunflower type ones mostly, not sure how it'll do on a torpedo type. Any idea on cam duration you'll go with if you choose a marine cam?

I think the NR racing twister with their 50lb springs are what I will use

The "Twister" is a High-performance grind providing significant power increase over the stock cam at a great price. Developed on the dyno and the track to maximize power on GX270s, GX390s, 420 Predators and 13/15hp Chinese OHV.

Stock lift with increased duration and optimized valve timing for a wide powerband (2000-5000+ rpm) providing a drastic improvement throughout the entire RPM range. This cam is easy on the valvetrain and will not "beat up" your valves or lifters.


Recommended for Yard Karts, Mud Motors, Short Track Go-Karts, Marine, Pulling/Towing, Mini-Bikes and anywhere else where a broad powerband is a needed and loss of low end is unacceptable. Also great for racing classes that require stock lift.

Cams is cut on a close base circle to the stock cam so the compression release is still functional.

246 Duration, .260" Lift using stock rocker arms (.250 at lobe), 110 LSA (ICL varies depending on engine installed in)

Use NR Racing HD Single Valve Springs Only (no dual springs)

~

Well the problem with the heater is the nozzle wore out, so I made the ultimate sacrifice and pulled it from the parts 20k btu unit, and lowered the pump pressure, turning my 50k heater into a 20. At least I got heat.

I celebrated by making a cart/stand out of pushmower handles and wheels

 

[karl]

The jackshaft components are ordered, might even steer soon

 

[karl]

It sits!

And steers!

Very beefy, and very tight/smooth , pleased with how it came out

No set screws/lock collars involved! Only 1 clutch sacrificed!

The tie rods are even threaded l/h r/h so adjustment is easy.

Seems legit.

And for your viewing pleasure, non potato-vision!