Grand Daddyish build

[Denny]

I was just being polite and didn’t want to say anything. Didn’t want to hurt your feelings. You seemed proud of it.

 

[Master Hack]

I was just being polite and didn’t want to say anything. Didn’t want to hurt your feelings. You seemed proud of it

Huh? Seriously? That the best you got? I’m dissapointed!

 

[TNThomas]

Congrats on the "new" kid
...& yes, spend as much time with them as you can
...& kart is looking good too

Earlier, you'all were discussing chain tensioners
...& Master Hack posted a pic of one

Q:
Shouldn't the tensioner be (mounted below) on the "slack side" of the drive chain?
...& not on the upper (torque'y) side?

Unless Ima seein' it wrong

Thanks! For my setup the roller chain tensioner will be on top. I depends on how the drive sprocket is positioned with reference to the driven sprocket. Since my jackshaft is behind the final driven sprocket, the tension is on the bottom side of the chain, and slack side is on top. Exact opposite of a motorcycle. Most setups will likely need the roller tensioner on bottom however.

Im also going to attempt flipping my exhaust around. Im not looking to put ear blastingly loud pipes on the 670 yet, so ill make do with the stock muffler. I need to make index marks, chop, rotate 180 degrees, and weld. From the factorty the exhaust aims at the driver seat, no bueno!

 

[TNThomas]

Also put some structural supports in for the diamond plate bed last night.

 

[TNThomas]

-Got the final welds on the exhaust so its flipped 180 deg and facing backwards now.

-Tin foil as a sort of heat/splatter shield while tacking up welds. Works well with multiple layers. Splatter gets through 1 or 2 layers, but not 3.

 

[TNThomas]

Putting all the pieces on to check various spacing.

Next items on deck are:
-Getting fuel petcock/fuel line on
-Making chain tensioner
-Install brakes/disc
-Make a push button reverse setup using a starter/flywheel from a V8 engine.
-Install 1 or 2 more axle bearings under the engine.
-Get battery rigged up
-Creat alternator bracket mount, install 40amp alternator.
-Rig up lengthened throttle cable.
-Install diamond plate floors.
-Just a little more steel support near the seats.
Clean.
-Paint
-And a few other small things

 

[Denny]

Dad, when can we ride it?

 

[TNThomas]

Dad, when can we ride it?

Late July hopefully!

 

[Master Hack]

Whats yer plan for the alternator? And what alt are you using?
mine works well, but creates a bit too much load at idle.

 

[TNThomas]

Whats yer plan for the alternator? And what alt are you using?
mine works well, but creates a bit too much load at idle.

I have a pulley that sits hust behind the drive CVT. It will have the belt hooked up to the alternator that will sit right behibd the drivers seat. I was thinking a 40 amp alternator, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BTL3R2T...d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

Would too much load be a rectifier issue? How do you know it has too much load, just a volt meter?

 

[Master Hack]

Sorry, bad choice of terms. I’m still screwing with carb jetting. So idle is rich. If l turn on the alternator the engine dies. Yes l put a switch in to enable/disable the electrical load.
that reduces the mechanical load on the engine. ‘Nuther one of my great ideas to complicate things. That way when it goes south, it takes twice as long to figger out.
you’ve got more engine than I. Dont think it willbe an issue for you.
once the carb is dialed in, it will be ok.
just wondered how you mounted and drive an alt.

 

[TNThomas]

Sorry, bad choice of terms. I’m still screwing with carb jetting. So idle is rich. If l turn on the alternator the engine dies. Yes l put a switch in to enable/disable the electrical load.
that reduces the mechanical load on the engine. ‘Nuther one of my great ideas to complicate things. That way when it goes south, it takes twice as long to figger out.
you’ve got more engine than I. Dont think it willbe an issue for you.
once the carb is dialed in, it will be ok.
just wondered how you mounted and drive an alt.

Smart, that makes sense. You have a 420cc right? Here is a better pic of the pulley. Cool little design. Hides behind the cvt. I definitely need to learn more about circuits/wiring lots to learn in that area.

 

[Master Hack]

I have just a puny 390. That pulley is a cool idea. I had to getto fab a delco 10SI on there. 20 amps or so. Just a few lights and keeping the elect starter supplied with electrons, doesnt require a huge supply of amps. Them delcos are cheap (often free) and a rebuild kit is $20.

 

[TNThomas]

All goodies bolted on. Checking for spacing on various remaining parts.

 

[TNThomas]

I have been doing alot of thinking on my final components, and I think I have a game plan. I have been stalling for a bit debating on what to focus on next. One thing I have learned from building stuff is that sometimes my expectations are a little unrealistic for the timeframe that I want them done in. And finishing the goal is more important than incorporating every possible bell/whistle/do-dad. This is the same logic as to why I ditched my 6 wheel/Differential Idea a while back. With this in mind, I am going to skip incorporating a few key components for the time being. I am only going to focus on the bare minimum items that I need to start the engine, move forward, and stop the vehicle. With that in mind:

-No alternator for now. I will definitely want one in the future, but I don't have to have it to start the engine. The changing system is the same as the smaller single-cylinder engines unfortunately, but it is enough to start the engine. 2 amps X 12 Volts = 24 watts. Not much, but it can charge it. I will err on a slightly larger single battery for the simple fact that I can charge from home, and rig up a cheap solar panel setup in the field if needed to help maintain it. One thing that I don't like about the pulley setup I bought, is that it shortens the amount of driveshaft that is physically connected to my drive CVT by about 5/8ths of an inch. Thats alot of meat, and I have seen examples of the 670s shearing off the keyway on the driveshaft, so any extra bite would be helpful. I have enough "sliding" adjustment in my jackshaft that this won't be an issue. It will also keep the drive cvt closer to the engine which will put less stress on the drive shaft.

-No reverse for now. I don't have to have this, and I am already accustomed to riding motorcycles/snowmobiles and being smart with how I approach difficult terrain with no reverse in mind. It rolls easily enough on flat ground, and I could stand to lose a few pounds by pushing, so I am going to skip this for now. Until the alternator issue is solved, I am skipping this too. An interesting note is that I picked up a cheap working starter for a 6.2L V8, and it appears to be the same outside size as my engine's factory starter. Whenever I do build the starter-powered reverse, I may actually buy a backup 670 starter, and use that as the reverse motor. That way if I am ever out in the field stranded, I could simply pull my reverse motor off, and swap it with my motor's starter. This is assuming its powerful enough to push it in reverse, which it probably is.

-The above 2 edits will drastically expedite my build, and get me even closer to getting this thing finished for summer. It will also save alot of weight. Realistically between the alternator setup, the extra starter for revers, extra brackets, and extra flywheel for the reverse, I will be saving alot of weight.

-I bought oil and an extra oil filter last night. I plan on rigging up the fuel line and breaking in the engine as soon as my fuel petcock comes in the mail. I will need to get the battery setup as well, in addition to an extended throttle cable and brakes. Lots happening soon, and as soon as my final welds are done, I am getting this thing painted. I am still pretty set on the following color from Roth Metal Flake. I will be using a black basecoat, so it will look close to the skateboard in the following video. They sell this stuff and others in rattle cans which is the route I am going:

 

[Master Hack]

Says yer in Washington. I’m guessing state not DC, so winters are a great time for mods,upgrades, details, and other fun stuff. Get that thing going while the sun shines!

 

[Denny]

Or you can just ride it in the snow!

 

[TNThomas]

Says yer in Washington. I’m guessing state not DC, so winters are a great time for mods,upgrades, details, and other fun stuff. Get that thing going while the sun shines!

Yup, just North of Seattle. Same thoughts here, the winters are long, dark, and wet, the perfect combo to hang out in the garage.

 

[TNThomas]

A local vintage racing group was showing off their vehicles, cool stuff! Called the "Golden wheels."

-A few of them have hand fuel pumps next to the driver on the outside. Come off a turn fast and pump it a few times to keep it running.
-Owners initials welded into front bumper
-Most hff ave a brake lever on the outside.
-Only 1 has front brakes
-Built primarily from leftover airplane parts from factories after WW2

 

[Denny]

Cool midgets and 1/4 midget!