Father and son build, need help

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chancer

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Well alot of that is normal. Without gas the wire is called "Flux core" and it does spatter a bit more than migs with gas. You have to go pick off those little buggars and wire brush/wheel off the white poweder "slag"
The best thing to do is probably get some new wire. Most guys here including me recommend "Lincoln" brand wire. Sold at home depot. The HF "Chicago"brand wire is really bad.
I do not know if the flux wire goes bad, but maybe probably you have some old wire, in that abandoned storage locker welder.
also Practice, I found after a 10 year break Welding is not like riding a bike.

Also look inside the welder the Ground wire should be on the Plus side + and the trigger on the Minus- side. Mine are clearly marked where they attach inside the machine. It works both ways apparently but this way is cleaner and easier.
 

Predataber

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Just to assure you a 212 will be more than enough power for that kart. I would actually hold back on it at first. I had a Full suspension with a governed 212 that would break traction with 18" wheels with 400lbs of riders and hit low 30's. That lil think will move nice. Especially with a nice lil China TAV2 eventually.
 

bob58o

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How do you get the bearings off the axle? My machinist can't cut the keyway unless everything on the axle is stripped.

You must use California Fury.
Bearing/pulley puller?
Or penetrating oil, heat, rubber mallet, or cut them off and get new ones?
 

45pro

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What ^ Said.

But you can but an axle, they are not expensive. This is what I have $22 bucks
http://www.bmikarts.com/1-Steel-Live-Axle_p_517.html


Hey chancer, now that I've got this whole axle apart I'm thinking about just buying a new one with all new parts. To get the sprocket hub, caliper hub, and both rims that you posted, all I would need to get going would be 4 keys, 2 rims, and new bearings correct? Then I'd be posi with all new stuff. Do you have links for new bearings? I stopped in at TSC today and bearings there are steep- $20 each, is there cheaper online?

---------- Post added at 03:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:04 PM ----------

Main thing right now keeping me from going all new is total cost plus I can't get my caliper hub off. The Allen screw is rusted on so bad I've stripped it trying to remove it. I don't know which direction I want to go yet, just keeping my options open, this is starting to get frustrating. It will cost $20 to get my old axle keyed, then I'll need new bearings, then I would be able to get power to the ground with a 1 wheel peel. Or go with an all new setup and spend...how much? But then be posi with a new setup.

---------- Post added at 03:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:09 PM ----------

Is this the bearings I need?

http://www.bmikarts.com/Axle-Bearing-1-bore-with-Pin-Locator_p_3743.html
 

chancer

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That is in fact a good 1" Axle bearing.

---------- Post added at 04:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:51 PM ----------

I am looking at a picture of your axle in post 109, It appears to be a different size on the ends than in the middle and where the Bearings are. Is it 1" on the ends or in the middle?
 

45pro

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Where the bearings are it is 1". Then it goes down to 3/4" on the side that has the free rolling wheel.

---------- Post added at 06:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:06 PM ----------

The pin locator I assume is the little nipple on the outside of the bearing? It won't be in the way of those mounting bracket things will it?
 

chancer

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The pins are in the way. I just took them out. I do not understand why they are there.
 

mckutzy

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Those pin are there so the outer race doesn't spin in the housing(some housings). Some also limit the inclination of travel so as to no dismount the bearing while being used.

Touch it with a grinder, just enough to take it off.
 

big-d

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Your welding picture looks like you are getting what I call burn back. It is when the wire is burning faster then it is feeding out. Each time the wire touches the metal, it arcs and burns further back then you want it to. Then it feeds more out and does the same thing again. Burning enough to leave all of the spatter and shielding, but not consistent enough to start a puddle. Try either turning your wire speed up a little or your heat down a little. I usually lean towards keeping the heat up as this gives you better weld penetration. Bad wire can be very hard to adjust for.
 

45pro

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Hey guys, so I'm still waiting on my axle to come back from the machinist, so while I'm waiting I'm starting to look into the gas pedal set up. And I'm clueless... I dot have a clue what I need or how I'm going to set this up. This is what I have. What am I missing?
 

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chancer

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I'm Sorry I never told you this before. But this Forum is actually a Sub page of DIY GO Karts
http://www.diygokarts.com/kart-plans/kart-plans-main.html
If you scroll up to the top of the forum and click on DIY Go Karts in the header it takes you there. There are plans for an entire go kart and how to hook up each part. It may come in handy while waiting for our responses. I learned a ton there before actually joining this forum.

But I just checked and the throttle pedal plan and instructions are rather vague.
 

45pro

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I haven't found much searching and with my kart not being a traditional build I'm finding it rather challenging to find exactly what I need. I'm hoping someone can look at these pics and help me brainstorm an idea on how to set this up. My other thought was to maybe have a different type of way to engage the throttle other than use of a gas pedal. I'm open to any ideas especially ones that would be a simple and effective way.
 

mckutzy

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Some use a throttle on the steering wheel. A brake lever or the like...
One could use brake and gas on the steering wheel..... However it would get busy and it doesnt allow for turning the wheel around as this effects the tension on the gas and brake....
 

chancer

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Post 38 here Shows Mine. I use a solid core flexible throttle like off a boat. but the pics should give you a general Idea.
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=28362&page=2

Also in the pic you posted you have the left pedal sitting in the right side. Swapped around you should see how they clearance the frame upper rail better.
Pretty much you drill a hole in your frame and the bolt on the pedal swivels on that. there is a pedal stop built in, that rests on the frame when not being pressed. and 3 holes on the pedal "arm?" to attach a cable. I like to add a spring to return the pedal back against the stop.
 

45pro

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Post 38 here Shows Mine. I use a solid core flexible throttle like off a boat. but the pics should give you a general Idea.
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=28362&page=2

Also in the pic you posted you have the left pedal sitting in the right side. Swapped around you should see how they clearance the frame upper rail better.
Pretty much you drill a hole in your frame and the bolt on the pedal swivels on that. there is a pedal stop built in, that rests on the frame when not being pressed. and 3 holes on the pedal "arm?" to attach a cable. I like to add a spring to return the pedal back against the stop.

I ordered a gas pedal thru bmi karts. Is it not? Maybe that why I'm having trouble seeing how it's suppose to fit.
 

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chancer

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Maybe I am wrong.

---------- Post added at 05:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:24 PM ----------

Well thing is they make a left and a right, or Brake and gas. the old school typical design has the pedal part actually hanging out side the frame. That is why they sent you that gas pedal.
But they are pretty much reversable. My daughters Kart has those exact pedals and they are reversed from typical, to keep her feet more inside the frame.
With your kart since you have that top frame rail, I think they need to be reversed too.
So you would need what BMI would call a brake pedal.

Or weld on a tube to mount it to. instead of using the frame rail. Looks like it would be pretty wide way to put your feet anyway if you mounted them to the Frame.
 
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