Father and son build, need help

[mckutzy]

Square is fine. just notch it so it fits the curve right, you also might have to pinch it slightly to minimize the gap if any...

 

[45pro]

So I'm thinking I'll run a cross member along the backside of the motor close to where the board is now, then run two towards the back off of it and weld them where the sharpie marks are on there. Then my mounting plate will have a sturdy surface to attach to. After that I can mount my motor and then I'll have an idea where to start cutting my keyway. From what I've seen this is the backwards way of doing it but since I have no keystock already done on my axle it seems like it would be better for me to make sure my engine has room to mount then find where my sprocket will go. If I'm missing something tho please let me know.

 

[chancer]

The important thing is getting the engine plate Perfectly Square with the Axle. That way the sprockets are lined up. If the engine is Crooked with the Axle the chain may derail.

I like Kartfabs way of doing it, but I have never done it that way either. I use a square to make sure the Axle is square to the plate.

Another Tip I have Is the long runners that go along the sides of the mount. Keep them as Wide as possible. Otherwise it can be difficult to get a Wrench on the bolts.

 

[45pro]

I suppose I can mock it up and find the general area within an inch and then mount the sprocket, then square the mount up with it. I just need to know where about to start trying to cut the keyway. I just didn't want to go through all that trouble then realize my motor needs slid over more to clear the cage.

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:24 PM ----------

With my brake on the drivers side it's gonna be a tad bit crampt over there.

 

[chancer]

Wait what do you have to support the front of the engine mount?

 

[45pro]

I'm going to run a cross member from 1 side of the frame to the other, then run 2 more from that to the back of the frame.

 

[chancer]

Ok that will work. That is all I have on my current build.

 

[45pro]

Ok guys, so a few things got accomplished today in the few hours I had. First off I'll be bringing home my 1" square tube steel tomorrow along with my buddies welder to make my motor mount platform. I decided to mock up the way I'm going to do it (yes chancer it's a tad different than my first plan, although I think an overall better design) with 1" dowels just to see what it's going to look like finished and to take the guessing game out if it when I'm cutting the steel. What do you guys think? I'm thinking it will work well. I tried to keep the sprockets close together but still have plenty of clearance. Reason for doing it differently than I had planned b4 was to 1- get the motor closer to the rear sprocket because the chain provided didn't seem long enough and 2- this way mounts the motor in a lower position therefor creating a lower center of gravity. If you see something troublesome about my plan please let me know.

 

[45pro]

Also, I found a machinist that will cut the keyway in my axle for $20. So the axle is off, which don't get me started, was a PITA because of the braking system. I didn't remove everything for that reason, hopefully it won't be an issue for the guy.

While it's apart, what do I need to do to make my axle posi ? Currently my right wheel is free turning.

 

[chancer]

Is there a keyway in the R wheel? you just put a key in it and it locks it to the axle.

I think the engine mount looks fine.

 

[45pro]

Is there a keyway in the R wheel? you just put a key in it and it locks it to the axle.

I think the engine mount looks fine.

No there's not.

 

[chancer]

These are what I use.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-x-5-1-4-R...=item2ca7935455:g:VfUAAOSw74FXOyZX&rmvSB=true

 

[Hellion]

I like the square tubing use; should be quite strong. Also agree with cutting a keyway for the right wheel on the end of the axle. These live axles with a free-wheeling wheel--that's just weird.

Examining the back end, I see some flat marks on the tubing (in the yellow rectangle) undoubtedly made by a grinder in the kart's past life. This was probably the area of the original engine mount. The area in the yellow circle just hanging there bugs me a little but if it's non-critical for the brake caliper, it should be ok. Just a heads up.

And thanks Chancer for the needless reminder that the kart most likely had a stint as an unpowered downhill racer. It's Mr. Kartman that forgets what he reads, not me.

 

[mckutzy]

Ya see if he will cut the keyway for the wheel, and when he cuts the main keyway..... see if he can make it indexed with the key already cut for the brake disc, and make it at least if not more than half way across the axle...
When youll need a short bit that isnt there, it makes it worthwile to have it so...
Get a clamp on hub for your sprocket and you'll be rockin...

 

[45pro]

Ya see if he will cut the keyway for the wheel, and when he cuts the main keyway..... see if he can make it indexed with the key already cut for the brake disc, and make it at least if not more than half way across the axle...
When youll need a short bit that isnt there, it makes it worthwile to have it so...
Get a clamp on hub for your sprocket and you'll be rockin...

Clamp on hub? The one I bought is 1 piece, I was wondering how I was gonna get it slid on. This is what I got. Do I need to buy something else? Do they have split hubs?

https://www.gopowersports.com/1-sprocket-carrier/

---------- Post added at 03:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:17 AM ----------

I like the square tubing use; should be quite strong. Also agree with cutting a keyway for the right wheel on the end of the axle. These live axles with a free-wheeling wheel--that's just weird.

Examining the back end, I see some flat marks on the tubing (in the yellow rectangle) undoubtedly made by a grinder in the kart's past life. This was probably the area of the original engine mount. The area in the yellow circle just hanging there bugs me a little but if it's non-critical for the brake caliper, it should be ok. Just a heads up.

And thanks Chancer for the needless reminder that the kart most likely had a stint as an unpowered downhill racer. It's Mr. Kartman that forgets what he reads, not me.

The part you circled is where my brake caliper mounts. As far as the other spot I'm not really sure

 

[qtband]

To use the hub you purchased, you will have to remove the bearing from the right axle, then slide the hub on. I always clean up the rust and debris from the entire axle to help things move along.

 

[45pro]

To use the hub you purchased, you will have to remove the bearing from the right axle, then slide the hub on. I always clean up the rust and debris from the entire axle to help things move along.

That's what I figured, is there a 2 piece hub I could buy for next time to make it easier?

 

[mckutzy]

I have seen them for bigger machines, where it would be totally impractical to have everything captive like that....
Im not too sure if they were custom made hubs though...
I look around and see where I saw them...

 

[45pro]

Well this is embarrassing. Let me start off by saying I had a 2 day class on how to weld when I was 17. Fast forward 12 years and I haven't touched one again until now but I still don't think it's totally me. So I borrowed my buddies welder and for the life of me I cannot get it to drop a consistent bead. It's spitting and the wire won't consistently feed. Now this one I'm using is a different kind of mig welder than I used b4. The one I was taught on had gas with it, this one is all electric. Is there a trick to it that I don't get or is there something wrong with it? Here are pics pics of the welder and what it's doing. My buddy has never used it before. He picked it up at an auction a few months back

 

[45pro]

This is what it's doing on a test piece, I don't get it, I never had a problem running a nice bead back when I was taught.