Engine suggestions

Chiron TL-34

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Guys, the predator was on sale again for 130 and I finally went and bought it. They only had one left, which was a HEMI, but oh my lord does it pull like a mf compared to my briggs. The torque is just crazy. I know @BrownStainRacing shared a vid saying the HEMI is less upgradable, but even in stock governed form it pulls so hard. I absolutely love it. Gonna put the briggs up for a while lol.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Guys, the predator was on sale again for 130 and I finally went and bought it. They only had one left, which was a HEMI, but oh my lord does it pull like a mf compared to my briggs. The torque is just crazy. I know @BrownStainRacing shared a vid saying the HEMI is less upgradable, but even in stock governed form it pulls so hard. I absolutely love it. Gonna put the briggs up for a while lol.
There's plenty of small upgrades that can be done to the hemi, that won't break the bank and make very noticeable improvements.

I don't recommend removing the governor, as the stock pred hemi engine peaks horse power around 4800-4900 rpm.
Unless you jus like wasting gas and burning up the piston, rings, and cylinder. It's jus not nessary for this engine.

Replacing the thick stock .052" head gasket with a .009" thick head gasket, will raise CR up from 8.3:1 to 9.5:1, that's still low enough to run 87 octane, and a big increase in torq at the same rpm.

Setting ignition timing to 28*- 30*, increases acceleration and torq.

Changing the stock .028" stock main jet to a .031" main jet, can be done with a 1/32" drill bit, will help the extra CR and timing, and not run overly rich with the stock air box and filter.

These three small things are very cheap, and a huge improvement over any crappy stage 1 kit out there.

You can still run the stock air box and muffler, and still notice the big difference in torq, in the same rpm range.

If you are looking for a aftermarket flywheel for performance and/or safety, the pred 212 hemi has a very different taper on the crank and ONLY pred 212 hemi flywheels will work.

Good luck and have fun!
 

Chiron TL-34

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There's plenty of small upgrades that can be done to the hemi, that won't break the bank and make very noticeable improvements.

I don't recommend removing the governor, as the stock pred hemi engine peaks horse power around 4800-4900 rpm.
Unless you jus like wasting gas and burning up the piston, rings, and cylinder. It's jus not nessary for this engine.

Replacing the thick stock .052" head gasket with a .009" thick head gasket, will raise CR up from 8.3:1 to 9.5:1, that's still low enough to run 87 octane, and a big increase in torq at the same rpm.

Setting ignition timing to 28*- 30*, increases acceleration and torq.

Changing the stock .028" stock main jet to a .031" main jet, can be done with a 1/32" drill bit, will help the extra CR and timing, and not run overly rich with the stock air box and filter.

These three small things are very cheap, and a huge improvement over any crappy stage 1 kit out there.

You can still run the stock air box and muffler, and still notice the big difference in torq, in the same rpm range.

If you are looking for a aftermarket flywheel for performance and/or safety, the pred 212 hemi has a very different taper on the crank and ONLY pred 212 hemi flywheels will work.

Good luck and have fun!
I’ve taken the carb apart and have found the attached drill bits around my house. Will any of these work? I ordered the head gasket, but I don’t know how to advance timing other than with a new flywheel. Maybe just by moving the magneto?
 

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BrownStainRacing

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I’ve taken the carb apart and have found the attached drill bits around my house. Will any of these work? I ordered the head gasket, but I don’t know how to advance timing other than with a new flywheel. Maybe just by moving the magneto?
You need a 1/32" bit, to open it up to .031".
Hobby shops and crafts stores usally have tiny bits.

I like to use copper gasket spray on the thinner head gaskets and put washers (1 for each) between the head bolts and head to take make sure it's stays sealed.

You need a degree wheel and piston stop to advance your timing.

You can make these yourself. Plenty of info on the web.
These tools are alot cheaper these days. It might be easier jus to buy.

The piston stop you need will be for 14mm threads.

Heres a bit set I use to fine tune and jet for that perfect tan color on the plug.

Keeping extra carb gaskets, black isolation plate and jets on hand makes things easier, there cheap enough and don't take up much room.

Dover will have all the carb parts you need.

 
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BrownStainRacing

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I’ve taken the carb apart and have found the attached drill bits around my house. Will any of these work? I ordered the head gasket, but I don’t know how to advance timing other than with a new flywheel. Maybe just by moving the magneto?
I'm not sure about the #'s for your bits, you can use dial calipers to measure them.
 

Chiron TL-34

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Also, do you recommend running a straight pipe (specifically, this one)? I'm not too much of a believer in these "upgraded intakes" as the original looks pretty solid other than the big plastic box around it.
 
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BrownStainRacing

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Also, do you recommend running a straight pipe (specifically, this one)? I'm not too much of a believer in these "upgraded intakes" as the original looks pretty solid other than the big plastic box around it.
Imho, there's nothing to be gained with a header, until you start getting above 5300 rpm, then you need to get the exhaust out faster.

All the stock parts can handle up to 5300 rpm, EXCEPT THE FLYWHEEL.

Stock carb, muffler, air box, filter, connecting rod, cam, and valve springs.
Springs should be shimmed for the correct install height, but they can easily handle up to 5300.

You really start pushing the safety limit on that stock flywheel when you're above 4000 rpm. Its very dangerous, and wasn't designed to handle that kinda rpm.

I wouldn't worry about the exhaust and intake till you get a aftermarket flywheel.

The lighter weight of the aftermarket flywheel will make the engine rev up faster, hitting peak rpm in a shorter distance, the engine feels much more snappier. And of coarse much more safer.

This could happen at any time, with any stock flywheel. I jus don't trust them.
This looks to be a mostly box stock engine, I'd say it was turning 5000 rpm, but who's knows. It could have been fine, maybe the rear tires came off the ground and sent rpm sky high, who knows???
 

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Chiron TL-34

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Imho, there's nothing to be gained with a header, until you start getting above 5300 rpm, then you need to get the exhaust out faster.

All the stock parts can handle up to 5300 rpm, EXCEPT THE FLYWHEEL.

Stock carb, muffler, air box, filter, connecting rod, cam, and valve springs.
Springs should be shimmed for the correct install height, but they can easily handle up to 5300.

You really start pushing the safety limit on that stock flywheel when you're above 4000 rpm. Its very dangerous, and wasn't designed to handle that kinda rpm.

I wouldn't worry about the exhaust and intake till you get a aftermarket flywheel.

The lighter weight of the aftermarket flywheel will make the engine rev up faster, hitting peak rpm in a shorter distance, the engine feels much more snappier. And of coarse much more safer.

This could happen at any time, with any stock flywheel. I jus don't trust them.
This looks to be a mostly box stock engine, I'd say it was turning 5000 rpm, but who's knows. It could have been fine, maybe the rear tires came off the ground and sent rpm sky high, who knows???
Wow, I figured the rod was the breaking point, but I have heard from some other members that the stock flywheel magnet is kinda sketchily glued on.

I've heard the stock exhaust was better for low end scavenging or something along those lines due to it's backpressure. Thanks for giving me more info on that.

I'm planning on running this thing governed for a bit, so I didn't really think I would need a whole bunch of upgrade parts just yet. I have taken the little max throttle stop screw out, do you know if it will hit 4000 RPM while still governed? If I'm risking blowing it up already, I will have no problem with purchasing a new flywheel for the safety, and I get to alter the timing a little bit.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Wow, I figured the rod was the breaking point, but I have heard from some other members that the stock flywheel magnet is kinda sketchily glued on.

I've heard the stock exhaust was better for low end scavenging or something along those lines due to it's backpressure. Thanks for giving me more info on that.

I'm planning on running this thing governed for a bit, so I didn't really think I would need a whole bunch of upgrade parts just yet. I have taken the little max throttle stop screw out, do you know if it will hit 4000 RPM while still governed? If I'm risking blowing it up already, I will have no problem with purchasing a new flywheel for the safety, and I get to alter the timing a little bit.
This is NEW to me for the pred hemi's. And I've never used it, but the next pted hemi that comes in I will try it.

I use this seller quiet a bit. Very good people, fast shipping, answers question quickly, I think his name is Payne. I'd have to look.

But get ahold of them and make sure it fits the predator 212 hemi crank. This is the cheapest flywheel I've seen for the pred hemi.
ARC flywheels are $120 now.

I wouldnt worry about the springs just yet, but hold em for later use.

But always, always, always, lap the flywheel to crank and check ignition timing.

It's not the flywheel that's wrong with the timing, it's the keyway cut into the crank that makes the timing off.

I've seen cranks with 18*-27*, so you never know what you gonna get, until you check it yourself.

As far as rpm you have now, you need a tach to check it. There can be as much as 1000 rpm difference in outta the box preds.

I use this tach, works great for tuning, setting gear ratios, I really like it much better then the cheapo square tach.


 

BrownStainRacing

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@Chiron TL-34

If you do place an order with racersproquip, get some magnetic oil drain plugs for your engine(s).

If you place enough orders with them, they will send you freebies.

I got sooooo many side cover gaskets, head gaskets, carb gaskets, main jets, even magnetic oil drain plugs. I'll never need another main jet for clone carbs, 😆 🤣 😂
They really good people, I'm happy with them.

Post in thread 'Newbie Yerf Dog 30032 Need Advice' https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/newbie-yerf-dog-30032-need-advice.47403/post-595599
 

Chiron TL-34

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Ok, so I finished putting the engine together and realized that the thinner head gasket causes my valves to be open all the time. How do I adjust the valves?
 

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