Denny
Canned Monster
So very cool! That’s what makes this site so cool. All the people you get to help. Now pass along your new found knowledge.
Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 LXT Torque Converter replacement
- Thread starter USAMAC
- Start date
Karttekk
Well-known member
Nope, never made it out today. Painted the roll cage then worked on finishing up the engine & drivetrain. Need a bolt for the drive pulley and a locknut for the driven. Nice work on your kart!
Karttekk
Well-known member
USAMAC, Did you bolt your jackshaft directly to the kart's engine mount plate or did you use any spacers? I went with 1" spacers hoping to make it as factory as possible and allow room for the driven. Wondering how you ended up attaching yours.
USAMAC
Member
So, I ended up pulling the original mount that came stock and slid it right over the bolts that change the elevation of the motor. I would have had to clean up the steel on the original better.
So I have a question for you, I feel like I've seen stated elsewhere that it's ideal to have as little travel in the chain as possible.. To have it so that the sprockets are as close together as possible without touching. I didn't go for this, but maybe I misunderstood?
Karttekk
Well-known member
There was no factory mount plate/jackshaft or chain, previous owner tossed them or something. The BMI Karts jackshaft works good, I wanted to set it up like it was originally, that's why I went with the spacers. Can you provide pictures of your jackshaft setup? I'll do the same once I get mine running which should be today.
Are you saying the shorter the chain, the better? I don't think it matters as long as the tension is set correctly and there is no interference anywhere. The position of the jackshaft sprocket and the axle sprocket won't change, they're fixed. The 5959 belt was still with the kart I picked up, it fit perfectly.
Are you saying the shorter the chain, the better? I don't think it matters as long as the tension is set correctly and there is no interference anywhere. The position of the jackshaft sprocket and the axle sprocket won't change, they're fixed. The 5959 belt was still with the kart I picked up, it fit perfectly.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
It's been bandied about before, and I pointed out the simple physics of a 8" diameter axle sprocket being right up near touching a little 12-tooth sprocket on a clutch. The angle of attack of the chain rollers on the small sprocket was such that the chain only transitioned about 90-100 degrees around the small sprocket, therefore barely engaging enough teeth to grab the chain under load. Others said it was never a problem, and I'm sure it wasn't for them. I just don't like only having 3-4 teeth grabbing the chain. A further spread between different size sprockets gets more of the small sprocket's teeth engaged.
USAMAC
Member
Yea I guess, I just thought ppl here all agreed on that one thing lol.. wrong assumption.. glad to hear it doesn't really matter.
My kart actually had 2 plates. The new one replaced the 2nd/top plate which had the jackshaft part on it. Hopefully, these pics will clarify.
Here's what I took off:
Karttekk
Well-known member
What was the previous owner hoping to accomplish by hacking up the original jackshaft? I didn't get to mine yet, ran around looking for a few more nuts and bolts. I'll get pictures tomorrow, it's setup with spacers.
Denny
Canned Monster
Just like a belt on a car engine you want as much chain as possible wrapped around the smallest sprocket. It is better for the life of the chain and the sprocket teeth. It’s stronger also.
USAMAC
Member
You got me! Quick question: I got pretty close to sourcing the model number of my kart, but assumed the name of it was the Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 lxt, from the stickers on it but then I see others with Silver Fox looking an aweful lot like this kart. Was I mistaken? Maybe its a year/released thing?
Karttekk
Well-known member
As far as I know, the Manco Dingo as a one-seater kart. You have a two seater, my guess is the Fox 2x4 LXT is correct. I was able to get mine out yesterday. I have to dress up the threads on the passenger side of the axle, I junked them up wailing on it trying to remove the seized wheel which I never did. I had the nut partially on the axle but the threads still got distorted. Seller gave me some seat belts I'll try & install today. Painted the kart and the roll cage, put the refurbished Robin Subaru engine on it. I put the jackshaft on 1" spacers to replicate how the factory had it. The thin bar is bent behind the engine making the engine look like it's sitting crooked.
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USAMAC
Member
Looks really nice though man, congrats! I am assuming you took the bench off to paint. I am planning on pulling mine tomorrow to troubleshoot what makes it not slide easily sometimes. Right now I think it may even be stuck. I am also going to properly run and mount the Tachometer I've installed in front of the steering wheel.
Did you have any trouble with it? Will be my first time taking a seat apart, so any pointers anyone has would be much welcomed! Maybe, it just needs some good cleaning/lubricating.
Karttekk
Well-known member
Thanks USAMAC. I completely stripped the kart down to the frame then hand sanded it for the new paint to adhere better. The seat slides were sticking, I sprayed some penetrating oil on them and tapped them back & forth until they freed up. There's nothing to these seats, four 5/16" nuts on studs hold them in place. I actually took the seat apart to replace the rotted seat base. Took out all of the old staples, removed the vinyl cover, cleaned out all of the rotted wood then rebuilt the base with new plywood. I used threaded inserts in the base with new 1/4" bolts to fasten the seat base to the seat frame.
Karttekk
Well-known member
Here's the stripped down frame.
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madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
Wipe off all the traces of that penetrating oil, it'll migrate around everywhere, and eat the paint. Spray the sliders down afterward with a film type of lubricant, like FU-40 or some other one of those homeowner grade sprays.
Karttekk
Well-known member
It's been dried up for days, did that a week or so ago. I only used enough to free things up.
madprofessor
"Loose Cannon Creations"
If you used PB Blaster to loosen things up, then 2 things.............You used the most effective product I've ever seen, and..............Your fingers likely still smell like it. (Orange Goop is the closest I've found for that, still isn't 100%).
Karttekk
Well-known member
I've used Blaster before, it does work good. I tried some of this stuff, it's stinky too but it works. CRC makes commercial duty products. The kart needs an axle but I'm not replacing it. Pushed it over as far as it would go then used a split locking collar to keep it from moving back. Got the threads cleaned up enough to put a locknut on it, good enough. Gonna post it for sale.