Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

[Functional Artist]

The EA guidebook also has info on many different Steering systems

The Pivot Arm style, is the one we will be using
...via a steering shaft kinda like this

~14" up from the floorboard
...at the dashboard upper steering support/bushing

Goes down thru the floorboard
...kinda like this

& comes out
...thru the "saddle"
...about here

 

[Functional Artist]

So, the Pitman Arm should "go" about here

It should be ~3" long
...same as the steering arms, on the spindles

The Tie Rods should "go" about like this

Drilled a hole, thru the "saddle'

The lower steering shaft support will be a simple Nylon Bushing (from the front wheel of a riding lawn mower)

Steering shaft, spacer & Pitman Arm

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Please tell me your gonna weld the axle to your "tub side" brackets at a later time and not rely on that self taper screw to hold the axle.

That EA hand book look quite interesting. Lots of info that could be used to help explain to the newbs round here.

 

[Functional Artist]

Please tell me your gonna weld the axle to your "tub side" brackets at a later time and not rely on that self taper screw to hold the axle.

That EA hand book look quite interesting. Lots of info that could be used to help explain to the newbs round here.

Hey WTR,

Good Eye!
...& yes, I am

That was just to "lock 'er in place" for now

I used the "tub" of the mold for this "mock-up"
...but, the actual monocoque is/will be a bit bigger
...than, the mold that it was made off of (by maybe ~3/16" taller & wider)

So, once everything is transferred to the monocoque
...& I'll add a couple of welds to the inside "faces" of them side brackets (to try-n-maintain a "clean look")

Yup, the Electrathon America Guidebook is "packed" with good/useful info
...& lots of info on how to do things safe(ly)

Here is a link to the EA Guidebook (check it out)

https://www.electrathonamerica.org/_files/ugd/032d61_12b902d9549f4ccdaac5da5c539a46d1.pdf

 

[Functional Artist]

So, now we need (2) Tie-Rods to connect the Spindles to the steering shaft (one on each side)

So, in this application, it looks like the Tie Rods need to be ~11 1/2" long

But, we have to account for, how much "room" the Tie-Rod ends, "take up" (looks ta be ~3/4")

Clamp the piece of rod in a vise (sideways "grips" better)
...& get the appropriate Die that matches the threads of your Tie-Rod end (in this case 3/8" fine thread)
...& some cuttin' fluid (thin oil)

Make sure you align the Die nice-n-square, on the rod, when starting

Only turn the Die (clockwise) by the holder handles, ~1/4 revolution, at a time
...& then, turn the Die back (counter-clockwise) ~1/4 revolution, each a time
...this helps the cutter "clear" the debris (cut material) out of your newly cut threads

Double check we have at least ~3/4" of threads (yup, just a bit over)

An installed Tie Rod end, looks like this

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Beefy

 

[Functional Artist]

A couple of steering "details"

When doing a Pivot Arm style steering system

All of the "arms" (Pitman Arm & Spindle steering Arms) have to be oriented in the same direction

Like in the diagram "if" the steering arms on the Spindles are "pointing" rearward
...then the Pitman Arm has to be "pointing" downward
or
Like in this application, "if" the steering arms on the Spindles are "pointing" forward
...then the Pitman Arm has to be "pointing" upward

Kinda like this

Another thing:

To be able to "lock-in" the Tie-Rod length (once established)
...it's best to have some extra threads (on one side)

So, a nut (not shown) can be tightened against the Tie-Rod end to "lock" the setting "in place"

&/also,
I had issues with the Tie-Rod end "binding" on/with the Spindle Arm, on hard turns, limiting the "travel"

Close up view

My solution is to just add a "spacer"
...or (2) "if" necessary

 

[Functional Artist]

A welding magnet holds the Pitman Arm, to the end of the steering shaft, nice-n-square for weldin'

Here is the Steering Linkage Assembly installed

Another view

A close up view

* Notice everything is assembled with standard nuts & bolts
...are much easier ta use for "mock-ups"
But,
Stronger bolts (probably Grade 8)
...& Loc-Nuts, will be used on final assembly

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

While I appreciate the close up view, I prefer a "closer upper" view. This is nevertheless very informative and well documented.

 

[Functional Artist]

Now let's work on the Suspension Pad holder/backer plate

Got out a piece of 18g. steel (same as the "saddles")
...& a piece of Aluminum (from an old sign)

Figured I'd just "go" with the steel
...& just clean 'er up & paint it

But, when I wasa puttin' the piece of Aluminum away, I "came across" a piece of Galvanized steel (from an old industrial dish washer)
...& a piece of Stainless steel (from an old refrigerator door)

I'ma likin' the Stainless
...so, I started doin' some markin'

Then, went ta cuttin'

Got 'er all cut out
...& "notched" the corners too (for bendin')

After a little "body work"

 

[Functional Artist]

I put the piece of stainless steel in the bender

First bend

After bendin' the (2) sides, I did a "test fit" of the "pad"
...& noticed...Um...the sides are too high?? (what wasa I thinkin'??)

Probably only need about 1/2"

Trimmin'

Not very straight??
...but, the "clearance" is much better

* Note to self...fix that...later

Ta-da!

"Test fit" (should "go" about here

 

[Functional Artist]

After alignin', measurin' & markin', I used a Step-drill bit to drill the mounting holes

These Button Head bolts have a smoother/rounder head than standard Hex head bolts
...& as such shouldn't affect the "pad" as much

Suspension Pad mounting plate installed

Suspension "pad" mounted on the Suspension "pad" mounting plate

Suspension Pad up against the monocoque "tub"
...while "suspending" the racer

Hard squeeze/pinch test (at max force)

 

[Functional Artist]

I did some sandin' on the FG monocoque

Mainly where the "saddles" will mount (for now)

Cured FG is kinda "hard" on the sandpaper
...so, after a good sandin'
...I changed the paper
...& did 'er again

Now, it'sa time ta "switch" everything over
...from the "hump" of the mold
...to the FG monocoque

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Check for flexing here. (red)

Maybe some bracing? (Blue)

 

[Grizzlymi]

I love the creativity as you go technique. Very cool!

 

[Functional Artist]

Check for flexing here. (red)

Maybe some bracing? (Blue)

View attachment 162677

Hey WTR,

I agree "if" the monocoque was just this

But, don't ya think the rear "deck" area
...connected to the back side of the "tub"
...will reduce &/or eliminate any flexing?

...& the "flat" areas along them sides
...kinda "brace" these areas?

 

[Functional Artist]

I love the creativity as you go technique. Very cool!

Hey Grizz,

Thank you...my friend

That's the "art" in Functional Art

 

[Functional Artist]

We have both patients, side by side
...to help ease the transfer

How ta find the center of an irregular shape, like this

Let the transfer...begin
Front

Rear

Bent the side supports

Nice-n-tight

This side too

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Hey WTR,

I agree "if" the monocoque was just this
View attachment 162691
But, don't ya think the rear "deck" area
...connected to the back side of the "tub"
...will reduce &/or eliminate any flexing?
View attachment 162690
...& the "flat" areas along them sides
...kinda "brace" these areas?
View attachment 162692

Your withholding information from me there buddy.

I see now.
Yeah, that flat deck should do just fine.

 

[Functional Artist]

Ummm...Houston we have a problem??

We don't have enough clearance...Clarence??

Up close view

By about...this much (5 1/2" to maybe 6")

Another view