Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

[Master Hack]

I'll see yer conversational model hub and raise ya one aluminum prototype.

I think l'll build an alumunim version just to see how bad lt will actually will be.
Aluminum is soft and eesy to machine, just difficult to weld. Costs more the than steel.
l'll look and see if i have suitable material.
Is there some 4 inch X 3/16 round aluminum disks in the pieces of material, among the junk in the box? That would make good Wheel flanges.

You still using 5/8 spindle?
what is the projected GVW?

 

[Master Hack]

I have some 2 inch X .250 aluminum tubing. ANd bunch of those aluminum discs. I think I can find a scrap piece of tubing an inch long.
I need to know:
Wheel (flange) bolt circle and threads (if specific) Same for the brake side.
Overall width. 1 inch or 1.375? (1 inch + 2 x 3/16)
Spindle diameter.

I'll make one up just to see how difficult it'll be to keep runout below 3 lightyears.

 

[Functional Artist]

Is there some 4 inch X 3/16 round aluminum disks in the pieces of material, among the junk in the box? That would make good Wheel flanges.

Yup, there was (1) big aluminum disc
...referred to as (2D) flange as seen in the videos

You still using 5/8 spindle?

Yup, & them 99502 bearings
...tryin' ta keep things consistant

what is the projected GVW?

Not really sure
...but, I'm tryin' ta keep 'er under 300 lbs. total (with driver)

I have some 2 inch X .250 aluminum tubing. ANd bunch of those aluminum discs. I think I can find a scrap piece of tubing an inch long.
I need to know:
Wheel (flange) bolt circle and threads (if specific) Same for the brake side.
Overall width. 1 inch or 1.375? (1 inch + 2 x 3/16)
Spindle diameter.

I'll make one up just to see how difficult it'll be to keep runout below 3 lightyears.

Hey T,

Love the motivation

Wheel/Product Specs:

• 6" Azusalite split rim wheel.
• 3-3/4" bolt circle circle.
• Tough and lightweight.
• Corrosion-proof, solvent resistant.
• Specially engineered Zytel Nylon compound.
• 3" wide with 5/8 ID Bearings

https://www.bmikarts.com/6-Azusalite-Wheel-3-wide-58-ID-Bearing_p_3292.html

I'm using the same brake rotors, like on the last hubs
...with ~1.92" bolt circle
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09PMSTDZ7?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1

For the "prop" hub that I made up, I used
...a 4" (1/8" thick) disc for the wheel flange (not threaded)
...a 3" (3/16" thick) disc for the rotor side flange (yes, threaded)
...with a 1" long, piece of 1 3/8 ID steel tube in between (1" (tube) + 1/8" flange + 3/16" flange)
* I'm trying to stay consistent by using 5/8" spindles with 99502 bearings

 

[Master Hack]

I'm trying to stay consistent by using 5/8" spindles with 99502 bearings

I will need tubing. the 2 inch I have has a 1.5 ID so it wont work.
It'll be fine for a trial part.

3-3/4" bolt circle circle

What size bolt?

.with a 1" long, piece of 1 3/8 ID steel tube in between

So 1" OAL?

Love the motivation

I didn't say when! but it sounds like fun.
Burnin some 'luminum!

 

[Functional Artist]

It'll be fine for a trial part.

I agree

What size bolt?

The bolts for the wheel flanges are 5/16"

So 1" OAL?

Yup, 1" OAL should work fine

FYI the "prop" hub, I made just had a (1") piece of tube, that did not go thru either of the flanges
...so, it was (1" (tube) + 1/8" flange + 3/16" flange)

I didn't say when! but it sounds like fun.
Burnin some 'luminum!

No hurry, we gots all winter
...'cause we ain't gonna be doin' much test drivin' around here, for a few months (til spring)

 

[Functional Artist]

I didn't say when! but it sounds like fun.
Burnin some 'luminum!

Hey T,
When ever ya get ta workin' on this prototype hub, please post about it
...either in this thread
...or in it's own/stand alone thread

Kinda like your "elevolution of a flange"
...that was so kool

 

[Master Hack]

Backing up a few notches...
Use some oil on yer drills and hole saws. Yer stuff will last longer, cut mo bedder with less noise.
And as a bonus you'll will have a big oily mess all around yer press.
I buy the "flux brushes" on flea bag. And a spillmaster. The brushes are really cheap AND inexpensive.

SpillMaster Container | Spill Proof Container | LittleMachineShop

Avoid workbench spills with the SpillMaster Container! This spill proof container holds cutting fluids and lubricants and won't spill, even when upside down.

littlemachineshop.com

Acid Brush Horse Hair For Glue Flux Solder Hobby Paint Chips Cleaning (144 pcs) | eBay

Lot of Horse Hair Acid Brushes - short handle approx 3.5 inch - Never used - See Photos<br>

www.ebay.com

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Every time my wife steps into my shop she says "We can do better". Lord, it's a mess in there.

 

[Master Hack]

Every time my wife steps into my shop she says "We can do better". Lord, it's a mess in there.

I think she might need an ambulance if she stepped into mine.
My wife only stands at the door and shouts.

 

[Functional Artist]

Backing up a few notches...
Use some oil on yer drills and hole saws. Yer stuff will last longer, cut mo bedder with less noise.
And as a bonus you'll will have a big oily mess all around yer press.
I buy the "flux brushes" on flea bag. And a spillmaster. The brushes are really cheap AND inexpensive.

SpillMaster Container | Spill Proof Container | LittleMachineShop

Avoid workbench spills with the SpillMaster Container! This spill proof container holds cutting fluids and lubricants and won't spill, even when upside down.

littlemachineshop.com

Acid Brush Horse Hair For Glue Flux Solder Hobby Paint Chips Cleaning (144 pcs) | eBay

Lot of Horse Hair Acid Brushes - short handle approx 3.5 inch - Never used - See Photos<br>

www.ebay.com

Hey T,

Good info!

My re-purposing self uses an old tooth brush (applicator)
...& the cap off of a can of spray paint (oil container)

When using the hole saws to cut them flanges, I used a few drops of cutting fluid every few minutes
...but, as you can see (in the pics) the pieces & debris are still pretty dry (no big oily mess)

So, how much cutting fluid should be used? (for hole saws &/or drilling)

 

[Master Hack]

I tend to over oil, but l find i get the best results when the part is "wet" with oil.
the resulting oily mess wotks as a rust preventative on the machine.

 

[Denny]

That’s why I over grease, but don’t blow out the seal.

That reminds me of a joke. A penguin take his car to get an oil leak fixed and drops it off. Then he goes across the street to get an ice cream cone. Comes back and the mechanic said “blew a seal”. The penguin says no, and wipes the ice cream off his face and says “no I just had an ice cream cone”!

 

[Master Hack]

That’s why I over grease, but don’t blow out the seal

What? Ya over grease as a rust prevantive? Or the wet with oil part?
The difference is, well there is a lot of difference, fact is there is really no comparison, berween cutting oil and lubricating oil.

I had a customer in europe once that called grease "oil cream".
First time hesaid that l thought "WTF is this guy talking about?
Then it dawned on me.

 

[Functional Artist]

I tend to over oil, but l find i get the best results when the part is "wet" with oil.
the resulting oily mess wotks as a rust preventative on the machine.

Hey T,

To expand on this topic a bit, I've have had mixed results

Many times when drilling holes in metal (using drill bits)
...after adding a couple of drops of oil, it seemed like the bit wouldn't start cutting, for a few seconds

I thought I added too much
...& some oil had to "burn off" before it would start cutting again
...but, usually got same results even when adding less oil

So, now I usually only add cutting oil when drilling deep holes
...as the oil seems to help lubricate the "walls" of the hole
...& help the bit so it doesn't "bind up" as much

As far as hole saws, I usually think of them kinda like a hand held hack saw
...try-n-maintain a "hand cutting" speed
...& only add a few drops of oil to (like above) help lubricate the hole being cut
...so, the cutter doesn't bind up (as much)

Thoughts??
...are these good practices or not
...& why

 

[Master Hack]

Well, there is a lota variables. Material, speeds and feeds, yada yada yada
Rule #1 the bigger the tool, the slower ya need to operate it. (works with wimmin too)
Rule #2 what ever works best for ya....

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Sharpen yer bits there FA

 

[Functional Artist]

I've been doin' lots & lots of research
...& thinking
...& then, more research
...& then, even more thinking

I'ma been havin so much fun
I love this kinda stuff

Topics include:
...working with & shaping foam
...working with fiberglass
...making molds
...monocoque building
...& still lookin' for more info

I kinda formed a "plan"
...started rounding up materials
...& then, propping stuff together

The idea is to roughly set everything up (seat, steering ***., pedals etc.) in a "mock mold"
...& after everything is arranged & set, I'll use that info to make a usable mold
...& then, I can make a "tub" (or 10) outta fiberglass

I'ma thinkin about maybe starting with a "tub" (I guess ya could call it)
...with a seat

Another view

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I am compelled by this. Keep me on retainer. I accept snacks as compensation.

 

[Functional Artist]

I'm not gonna post every video I came across in this journey
...but, I'ma gonna post some of 'em with good info

Like this video, which is a recording of a Formula Student lecture/presentation
...but, it's "packed" with good info

 

[Functional Artist]

I am compelled by this. Keep me on retainer. I accept snacks as compensation.

Hey Ez,

This monocoque stuff is all new to me
...so, any & all advise &/or guidance would be surely appreciated

The only fiber glassing I've done was when I made a DIY fiberglass hood for my mini-Slingshot kart

* Quick trip down memory lane

Dashboard & shaker (in the rough)

Dashboard & shaker
...on the hood
...w/curved down "nose"

Puttin' 'er in primer

Rustoleum
...gloss white
...oil based paint
...w/hardener
...& sprayed on

...but, a monocoque is like on a whole 'nuther scale