Building a go kart size Aerial Atom

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Functional Artist

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Thinkin' about what Sid said, lets get some foot area measurements.

I'll use Desteny's Cotton Candy Kart (it's pretty roomy & comfy) as an example.

The floor is ~13" wide & as of now I'm thinkin', we want a floor area of ~12 wide.

General proportioning, it looks like the nose box on the Atom is around twice as wide as it is tall.

So, if we want a foot area of 12" wide then, the height would need to be ~6".

But, when I sat on the kart & measured, it looks like 12" wide is quite adequate for boots & a steering shaft, but @ only 6" high, 1/2 of my boot will stick up/out like Fred on Flintstones. :lolgoku:
Well! :idea2: I guess we'll have to get back to that. :p
For visual reference, I went ahead & marked a scrap piece of board (6" x 12") & propped at the foot of the kart, this gives us a better idea of what a 6" x 12" (vertical area) looks like (on the kart & with boots)
 

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Functional Artist

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Now that we have some rough measurements to work with, lets do some drawing. :thumbsup:

The lower ribbon rail seem like the best place to start.
It's supposed to bow out ward & angle upward from the front to the rear, but it looks to actually sit pretty horizontal, on the kart.
(from the top view & just for proportioning purposes) :cheers2:

So, lets see if we can start there.

First, I marked where the front tires, axle & nose box would be.
(front up)
I flipped the board over for measurin' & markin' where the rear tires & frame rails "kick back" between the tires.
(bottom up)
Turned 'er side ways & drew some nice rounded bends (maxed to the sides of the board)

Then, drew lines to connect the front & rear.
I also marked where the seat would be.

Looks pretty kool! :2guns:

It don't look anything like an Atom :ack2:
...but still looks kool. :lolgoku:

Back to the drawin' board.
Probably gonna have to get another board.
:idea2: maybe try a longer board too (~30" x 60")
 

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Functional Artist

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Yup, I think we can do this! :cheers2:

I've been studding this thing some more & also been doin' some figurin' & drawin' :idea2:

Looking at the first pic, from the top view an Atom kinda looks to have a simple/standard go kart shape.

Imagine just (1) seat & it sitting a little further back than the (2) seats are now.
If we have (lets say) a 48" wheelbase & the seat back starts ~8" from the rear, there would still be ~40" to the front axle/foot rest area.
This should leave plenty of leg & foot room & then, even if we add ~6" ahead & behind the wheels, we'll end up with an overall length of ~60". (just gotta figure out that toes stickin' out thing) :ack2:


Lookin' deeper, examining the overall shape of the super structure (sounds kool to say) I keep sayin' to myself, "WOW! this thing is Bad Azz"

IMO
It's more like a 4D structure. (if there is such a thing)
It has width & height & depth, but with these "bows" on angles it takes on like a 4th dimension. :2guns:
This frame even seems to "flip". :smiley_omg:
Look at the (2) different views of the same (black) car. (pics 5 & 6)
In the first one, it looks like the top rail curves down to intersect with the bottom rail. (like it actually does)
In the second pic it looks like the top rail is pretty much straight & the bottom rail curves up to intersect with it. (looks kinda kool, but not reality)

* Comparing the front view of the Atom & the Arrow.
They have some similarities, but the level of engineering between the (2) seems to be quite a bit different.
 

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Joe-405

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I could give you the measurements off my spiderbox if you need them. It’s really comfortable for 2 adults with poly racing seats.

And actually is pretty close to the design of the atom.
 

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Functional Artist

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I brought the Damien kart inside & partially reassembled 'er to use as a model to play with Atom some dimensions & stuff. :thumbsup:

This frame has more Atom like characteristics than I realized. :cheers2:

I (temporarily) moved the rear axle all the way back on the Damien kart. (for measurement purposes)

Measurin', if I add an imaginary 6" to the rear & ~4" to the front, we would have ~48" wheelbase with a ~54" overall frame length. :2guns:

I then, propped the rear of the frame up on an angle, to mimic the angle of the lower "rib rail".

We can use the bench top to represent the floor of the cockpit & a piece of 1" tube to represent the bowed "top rib" rail.

Next, I clamped one end of the tube to the left front of the frame & curved/bowed it back & down to just behind the rear axle.

Yup, kinda startin' to resemble an Atom :wai:
 

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Tpdingo

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Yup, kinda startin' to resemble an Atom :wai:

No it doesnt. Its way too big and completely the wrong shape. Atoms look like this:



:roflol:

Yes it is starting to take the shape of an atom, but any framed 4-wheel machine with wire-frame sidewalls will kind of resemble and atom to some degree for that matter.
 

Functional Artist

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I think were makin' progress

A 4" - 5" length frame seems do able :thumbsup:

Now, lets look at it & try to lock down some measurements from a different direction, width.
:idea2:
If we work with/use a standard 36" rear axle, we should have ~22" - 24" of available space in between the tires.

Let's say, the upper "ribbon rails" are ~24" apart, at their highest & widest point. (that seems to put 'em right above the inside edge of the rear tires)

The lower "ribbon rail" end tubes (the ones with the blue caps) could be ~16" apart
(that would leave ~3" - 4" from each rail/pipe to the tire)
The lower motor compartment box) tubes could then be ~12" apart.

The motor compartment box should be ~5" off of the ground & then there would be ~6" to the "ribbon rail".

* Pay no attention to the square tubes. They are just holding the axle.

Yup, kinda close :2guns:
 

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Functional Artist

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Still workin' & studying on the frame, old school style :thumbsup:

I printed a couple of copies of a nice-n-clean blueprint type drawing of the frame that I found on Google.

But, I didn't double check the framing & some got cut off :ack2:

We can work with these for a minute :cheers2:

I used a yellow highlighter to "highlight" the lower "rib rails".

I also used blue ink to visually "bring up" the straight part of the rear of the lower "rib rail" tube.
(to help show the correlation of it's width to the nose box's dimensions & help judge them curves)
...but, we got no nose box? :lolgoku:

Still helps a bit, till I get some complete copies :2guns:
 

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Functional Artist

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I got some better (complete) copies of the frame diagram. :thumbsup:

I looked everywhere but, I can't find my drawin' "T" square.

I have other squares but, not a "clean" one. :ack2:

I'ma gonna have ta make one.

Just, square up a couple of pieces of oak scraps & screw 'em together.

Gotta make sure it's square. (A square ain't worth a crap if it ain't square) :2guns:

Yup, that'll work :cheers2:
 

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Functional Artist

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Lets do some figurin'-n-drawin' :thumbsup:

I rounded up a drawin' board (a smooth surface with a nice straight edge), our "new" "T" square, some maskin' tape & a copy of the frame diagram.

First we gotta "square" it up.
I held the "T" square along the edge of the board, aligned it with a straight line on the copy & taped the corners down, to hold it in place.

I sized it so, the frame is pretty close to 8" long in the copy.

Using red ink I marked the left & right ends (at 0" & at 8"), right in the middle (at 4") & then, split each of the sides & marked it. (at 2" & 6")

So, I'm figurin', if the frame is 8" long (in the copy) & we want to make one ~48" long (in real life) then (I think) we can use the rule 2" (on the copy) = 12" (on the kart)

* Our lines even seem to "line up" pretty well with several of the main lines & components on the frame.

This should help us size & judge & align everything nicely. :2guns:
 

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Functional Artist

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Also did some drawin' to figure the width. :thumbsup:

First, we had to "split this baby" in 1/2, right down the middle.

So, according to the drawin', our kart should be ~24" wide @ the widest point.

The side height seem to be ~12" from the bottom of the motor box to the top of the top "rib rail".

Hmmmm. We may have to tweak those numbers a bit. :cheers2:

I guess we'll just have to see how it works out. :2guns:
 

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Tpdingo

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C'mon Functional Artist....you got skill. Figure out how to wave the mouse and keyboard around and put your ideas in the computer.

Trust me...it will be well worth it.

Nice designs though...even if primitive methods were used
 

Functional Artist

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Reminds me of drafting class in high school. Man, that was primitive by today's standards..

Yup, that's where I learned, High School Industrial Arts class back in like 1982. :thumbsup:

---------- Post added at 12:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:50 AM ----------

C'mon Functional Artist....you got skill. Figure out how to wave the mouse and keyboard around and put your ideas in the computer.

Trust me...it will be well worth it.

Nice designs though...even if primitive methods were used

Thanks :cheers2:

Don't worry, I'll look into it. :thumbsup:

As far as I know, designing in CAD is only (1) part of it, figuring out how to accomplish it in "real life" is a whole different situation.

I can design & draw all kinds of kool stuff, but then I have to take into account "is it doable?
..."can I do it real life"?

How do you take the design from the screen & make it real?
…with primitive tools?
 

Kartorbust

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In the last 30 years when went from pencil and slide rule to sitting behind a keyboard to design everything. Doing it all by hand is a dying art at this point.
 

Tpdingo

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How do I connect my chop saw, grinder & welder to my computer?

Can you 3D print a full size go kart?
...in steel? :smiley_omg:

Lol my little printer can't print any bigger than 10x9x8" and only in plastic...not to say it can't print some impressive and useful things though.

I know some printers can print metal but not big enough, and not sure show strong...but it's metal.

You can use the Universal Converter box..just make sure to select chop saw and angle grinder option at checkout.

https://xkcd.com/1406/
 

Functional Artist

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Lets bend some pipe :thumbsup:

I think we can incorporate the seatback/rollbar in with the bottom of the motor box.
(see drawing below) :cheers2:
Started with a 10" piece of pipe.
Marked at 20", 60" & then, at 100"
Bent it at the 20" mark to ~75* angle & also at the 100" mark to ~75*
(being sure to keep 'em in alignment)
Then, turned 'er ~90* & bent 'er to the max right in the middle at the 60* mark.

A ratchet strap easily draws 'em together to ~12" apart. :2guns:
 

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