fowler
New member
^^^thanks^^^
buggy go kart thing with overpriced cm250 engine
- Thread starter fowler
- Start date
- Status
brendonv
New member
The one going near the sprocket is the neutral light wire (when its in neutral it will light up on the dash). It doesnt need to be connected but it is handy. The other two are most likely temp sensors.
fowler
New member
well i have no dash so i dont need that but thanks
ill need to lengthen the temp sensor
ill need to lengthen the temp sensor
r97
Measure twice cut once
google, lol
fowler
New member
well i got the side rails welded on today and it turns out welding a 8 mm gap on by back is not easy.
makes it alot stronger, it use to flex under my weight (75kg) but today i got the fattest kid i could find (130kg) to jump on it and it is good.
the front skockys work well they have about 200mm (8 and a little bit inches) of travel but the rear one is locked up.
anyway not an issue yet.
i made a list and ill trek it to the harware store and buy the fitting to make the new steering.
pics to follow at later date
makes it alot stronger, it use to flex under my weight (75kg) but today i got the fattest kid i could find (130kg) to jump on it and it is good.
the front skockys work well they have about 200mm (8 and a little bit inches) of travel but the rear one is locked up.
anyway not an issue yet.
i made a list and ill trek it to the harware store and buy the fitting to make the new steering.
pics to follow at later date
Last edited:
fowler
New member
has anyone got a decent pic of a rear swing arm and engine so i can put it in my design folio
i cant use mine otherwise my teachers will work out i never designed it
i cant use mine otherwise my teachers will work out i never designed it
sideways
Unfinished projects king.
fowler
New member
no like a a set up i have, with the engine in the frame and wingarm out the back
Rustydog2010
NZ Nutta :|
What about a Sidewinder picture?
fowler
New member
i guess so i just need a pic and i cant find one
Rustydog2010
NZ Nutta :|
fowler
New member
thanks
fowler
New member
well school holidays are over and im back to work
but the new issue is i have two weeks to finish it as im finishing school FOREVER.
that isnt a huge issue as we have tools on our farm but they are a 34 year old stick welder, a chop saw older than me and only a 9 inch grinder as the smallest. at least the drill is new but the bits are the same age as the welder.
so i have two weeks to finish but as iv finish my other classes tomorow i get a decent 7 days work in.
the kart/buggy hasnt changed (much) since the last pics,
but in the new steering deign will it matter if the pitman arm and steering shaft is angled to point towart the driver, when the rest of the system is perpendicular with the ground
but the new issue is i have two weeks to finish it as im finishing school FOREVER.
that isnt a huge issue as we have tools on our farm but they are a 34 year old stick welder, a chop saw older than me and only a 9 inch grinder as the smallest. at least the drill is new but the bits are the same age as the welder.
so i have two weeks to finish but as iv finish my other classes tomorow i get a decent 7 days work in.
the kart/buggy hasnt changed (much) since the last pics,
but in the new steering deign will it matter if the pitman arm and steering shaft is angled to point towart the driver, when the rest of the system is perpendicular with the ground
r97
Measure twice cut once
sry but i don't exactly get what you mean? pics?
fowler
New member
ok this is what i have
Attachments
-
steering.jpg
r97
Measure twice cut once
my 2 cents says you'll be fine, but maybe someone else has proof against that, but like i said i son't see how it would be a problem (you are talking about it being ok to have the steering shaft at an angle correct?)
p.s. shouldn't you have the tie rod swivel point directly in line with your a-arm swing points? (once again do we have an expert on this topic?)
p.s. shouldn't you have the tie rod swivel point directly in line with your a-arm swing points? (once again do we have an expert on this topic?)
modelengineer
Lord of the noise
I'd start looking for a steering rack. One from an escort or a mini can be cut down to the exact right length for no bumpsteer.
The pivots for the tie rods should be in line with the pivots on the chassis, and also the ratio of the distance from the tie rod pivot to the two chassis mounts should be the same as the ratio from the tie rod end to the upright mounts.
For example; if the tie rod end is 1/3rd the distance between the bottom ball joint and the top ball joint, then you should have the chassis end of the tie rod 1/3rd the distance between the bottom and top chassis mounts.
The pivots for the tie rods should be in line with the pivots on the chassis, and also the ratio of the distance from the tie rod pivot to the two chassis mounts should be the same as the ratio from the tie rod end to the upright mounts.
For example; if the tie rod end is 1/3rd the distance between the bottom ball joint and the top ball joint, then you should have the chassis end of the tie rod 1/3rd the distance between the bottom and top chassis mounts.
fowler
New member
on the acctual buggy they are lined up close as dosent mattter to exact
also we have a mitisy colt in the dump at home so ill pull the rack outa that, but like i said i have two weeks left then the progect is going to be marked so it needs to be operational
when i get home and we finish harvest and shearing and i will fix and modify it to be better and stronger
also we have a mitisy colt in the dump at home so ill pull the rack outa that, but like i said i have two weeks left then the progect is going to be marked so it needs to be operational
when i get home and we finish harvest and shearing and i will fix and modify it to be better and stronger
fowler
New member
anyone got a decend link to a good instructional page on how to shorten a rack
- Status