fowler
New member
how would u hook it up
i just got the correct oil finally
i just got the correct oil finally
buggy go kart thing with overpriced cm250 engine
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brendonv
New member
Looks good man. Welding needs a bit of work though. Strength wise its pretty good, mainly just presentation you need to work on. Get some nice moon shapes goin. Atm it just looks like blobs. XD
How old are you. Your class mates look pretty young in the photo. Good job bro.
How old are you. Your class mates look pretty young in the photo. Good job bro.
fowler
New member
yeah some welding is good others are ****
i never got shown so it will propoly get a bit better as it goes
i never got shown so it will propoly get a bit better as it goes
brendonv
New member
Basically you want to move in a zig zag or moon shape motion. Not just straight. It makes it look a lot nicer.
fowler
New member
i do move zig zag
but i think i move too slow
but i think i move too slow
Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
proper settings are the most important thing. Technique is next. If your using a mig welder with solid wire and gas, clean metal is very important also.
sloky slocombe
Sloky
Im not a pro but i find that with mig welding just have the heat up as high as you can with out melting a hole in it and adjust the wire speed untill it sounds like bacon cooking on the barbie. works for me.
Arc is a bit different
Arc is a bit different
Doc Sprocket
*********
I have several years experience in GMAW and FCAW, and I don't necessarily agree. Sometimes a straight shot across is not the best best. Reasons may include- Metal thickness , multiple passes, not having an "exact right" setting on the machine you're using for that particular weldment, presentation, position, heat control, etc.
Sometimes rosettes, figure eights , or other patterns are appropriate to the task.
I have welded everything from 20ga to structural, from ductwork to stuff that travels at 70mph with thousands of pounds on it. Don't take it personally, I just disagree. Cheers!
Oh yeah- Fowler- With the kart that long you might find your turning radius less than desirable. But I do like the crossover/ drag link arrangement. That'll be fine as long as it's stout enough.
brendonv
New member
It says in the title dude lol.
fowler
New member
lol
1982 honda cm250
is the 1982 bit going to be a problem
1982 honda cm250
is the 1982 bit going to be a problem
fowler
New member
all well and done but the funtimental flar is your experiance i mean welding under sea on high preasure vesals is not a job id walk out tomoro and get so im guessing youve had a bit of practice at this where as i have not and if i weld in a straight line it turns out as a blob and i either only put weld on one peice of material or there is only 1 mill of meat acctually touching so in my account of the situation the zig zag is not the most structually sound method but in my size of operation it is the most fullproof method
also dont sopose u work for bp
also dont sopose u work for bp
brendonv
New member
haha. God im waiting for tomorrows news to go like "bp have sacked 10,000 workers because of price cuts". I wonder if they will pull through and still be the biggest. Hope they dont go broke. They have caused some terrible problems. This thing has really shown who rules the country. BP or Obama? I think BP. Obama will say do this and they will say "get stuffed, you do this or we leave and move our rig somewhere else". Sadly its all about money.
fowler
New member
yeah however ****ed up ****ed up real bad
i dont think it is a case of bp staying as the biggest it is more a case of can they say around at all
theres a site where u can put the oilo spill over oyour town to see the size
if u put it on kataning it goes from perth to albany to espance (pretty mch all of south west )
i reckon this should eather make the oil price plumet to cover costs or it will sky rocket when they go broke
i dont think it is a case of bp staying as the biggest it is more a case of can they say around at all
theres a site where u can put the oilo spill over oyour town to see the size
if u put it on kataning it goes from perth to albany to espance (pretty mch all of south west )
i reckon this should eather make the oil price plumet to cover costs or it will sky rocket when they go broke
brendonv
New member
I think that rig only supplies crude oil for america not australia so i dont think it will effect us. Just dont get ur fuel at bp. 
fowler
New member
only 17 so thats not an issue yet accept for my buggy
saying that though i dont even know if my engine will start yet
saying that though i dont even know if my engine will start yet
brendonv
New member
haha. Shouldnt u of really checked that b4 u bought it?
fowler
New member
i couldnt it is still in bits
iv got all the bits minus petrol
it would be quite conveniant if it starts though
iv got all the bits minus petrol
it would be quite conveniant if it starts though
Doc Sprocket
*********
Holy crap, Flash! Jeez. Underwater? Woah. I'm impressed!
Anyway, you're right in trying not to confuse the newbs. I'm completely self taught so I don't know, but- don't they teach the stacked dime/rosette method early on?
Anyway, you're right in trying not to confuse the newbs. I'm completely self taught so I don't know, but- don't they teach the stacked dime/rosette method early on?
FlashGordon_1981
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Hi again you guys, sorry for the mouthing off in here, thats actually why i quit welding proffesionally... Travelling around 285-300 days every year, i started talking to persons in my social life, the same way i did, when in charge of 10 indian og arabic welders, in order to get things done... Shouting and "pulling rank", sorry bout that guys !
(Nope didn't work for BP ! Worked for an independant Danish contractor, that "rented me out" so to speak, to other companies around the globe, thoug never BP the best i can recall)
Anyhow, what i meant was: Fowler you say the weldments become blobs and as i understand it, they don't penetrate both pieces of material that you're welding together, the way you wan't, correct ?
If that's the case, then maybe you could try playing a bit more with the settings on the welder, and also one more thing kap'n Crunch mentioned earlier, clean the welding-place on the material propperly before welding, it does have a great deal more to say, than you'd think first of !
The reason is, that if one piece of steel is a bit rusty, and the other piece is new blank steel, they won't absorb the heat from the welding at the same temperature point, rust for instance, acts like a sort off temperature insulation, if you would.
Thus you'd have to weld longer time on the rusty part, to get penetration, then on the blank steel, thereby leaving huge amounts of welding material and creating blobs.
But mainly i think you might just wanna turn up your welder a notch or two, on the amps setting, cause i think you're simply not having enough heat on the gun, when youre welding.
I know that often requires you to move the gun a bit faster, and then not having the same experience some of us have, i know that scares some people of a bit, because it gets harder to be accurate, the faster you have to move the gun.
I'm also wondering one thing: Do you use one hand or both when welding ?
Lastly one thing i noticed, especially around two materials with different wall-thicknes, and some places also different profile, you have huge blobs.
Since nobody has shown you anything, maybe it would be ok to suggest, that you keep the heat of the welder, a bit more on the material with the thickest wall, in order to get the welds you want.
The thicker the material, the more heat it needs to get propper penetration, but if the opposite material is thin-walled, you'd risk getting burn-throughs at that material, so keep the heat mostly on the thick material.
I teach shop-class myself on a private school nearby, and the three most common mistakes to the best of my experience, are as follows.
MAIN REASON:
The students are impatient, and more eager, to get theire things out on the field for a good time off bogging and racing in the dirt, then getting the work done propperly. Many times that result in broken down vehicles, from crappy welds, and they have to go back to the shop for repairs. Instead of taking a few more minutes when fabbing things in the first place, and then have lasting fun afterwards.
And YES, i DO understand that shop-class isn't that many hours pr. school week, and off course we want to spend more time driving, than making, those darn fun vehicles.
Next:
They don't try out there welding settings on two pieces of scrap metal, before welding on the cart/buggy. Many a time, the setting isn't correct, and the welds get the way you'd expect as a direct result of that.
Lastly:
Many people seem to think, that a welding gun/grip, is supposed to be only held by one hand. If at all possible, always use one hand to operate the gun-handle, and the other to support it. It gives you a lot more of the desired accuracy, and makes it a lot easier to make great welds. A hunter wouldn't shoot a riffle or shotgun with just one hand, not if he expects to hit anything at least !
(Nope didn't work for BP ! Worked for an independant Danish contractor, that "rented me out" so to speak, to other companies around the globe, thoug never BP the best i can recall)
Anyhow, what i meant was: Fowler you say the weldments become blobs and as i understand it, they don't penetrate both pieces of material that you're welding together, the way you wan't, correct ?
If that's the case, then maybe you could try playing a bit more with the settings on the welder, and also one more thing kap'n Crunch mentioned earlier, clean the welding-place on the material propperly before welding, it does have a great deal more to say, than you'd think first of !
The reason is, that if one piece of steel is a bit rusty, and the other piece is new blank steel, they won't absorb the heat from the welding at the same temperature point, rust for instance, acts like a sort off temperature insulation, if you would.
Thus you'd have to weld longer time on the rusty part, to get penetration, then on the blank steel, thereby leaving huge amounts of welding material and creating blobs.
But mainly i think you might just wanna turn up your welder a notch or two, on the amps setting, cause i think you're simply not having enough heat on the gun, when youre welding.
I know that often requires you to move the gun a bit faster, and then not having the same experience some of us have, i know that scares some people of a bit, because it gets harder to be accurate, the faster you have to move the gun.
I'm also wondering one thing: Do you use one hand or both when welding ?
Lastly one thing i noticed, especially around two materials with different wall-thicknes, and some places also different profile, you have huge blobs.
Since nobody has shown you anything, maybe it would be ok to suggest, that you keep the heat of the welder, a bit more on the material with the thickest wall, in order to get the welds you want.
The thicker the material, the more heat it needs to get propper penetration, but if the opposite material is thin-walled, you'd risk getting burn-throughs at that material, so keep the heat mostly on the thick material.
I teach shop-class myself on a private school nearby, and the three most common mistakes to the best of my experience, are as follows.
MAIN REASON:
The students are impatient, and more eager, to get theire things out on the field for a good time off bogging and racing in the dirt, then getting the work done propperly. Many times that result in broken down vehicles, from crappy welds, and they have to go back to the shop for repairs. Instead of taking a few more minutes when fabbing things in the first place, and then have lasting fun afterwards.
And YES, i DO understand that shop-class isn't that many hours pr. school week, and off course we want to spend more time driving, than making, those darn fun vehicles.
Next:
They don't try out there welding settings on two pieces of scrap metal, before welding on the cart/buggy. Many a time, the setting isn't correct, and the welds get the way you'd expect as a direct result of that.
Lastly:
Many people seem to think, that a welding gun/grip, is supposed to be only held by one hand. If at all possible, always use one hand to operate the gun-handle, and the other to support it. It gives you a lot more of the desired accuracy, and makes it a lot easier to make great welds. A hunter wouldn't shoot a riffle or shotgun with just one hand, not if he expects to hit anything at least !
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