Bobs 2024 Build Off Build

bob58o

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Too much stuff going on in head to comb hair.
A.) comb hair
B.) turn on Pink Floyd, sip tea, imagine yourself traveling through space and time at the speed of light racing the photons around you while questioning if you’re moving at all.

 

bob58o

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Any suggestions on how to make sure all three components of the steering head are on axis and square before I weld, cut to shorten, then machine bearing pockets? I’m about as close as I can get with a dead blow hammer. Will a good machinist be able to fix small mistakes and keep the bearing pockets on axis even if I am slightly off?

I’ve got basic tools. A cheap square. A 3’ level. Cheap calipers. A set of mics. Maybe a dial indicator and stand for it if I look hard enough.IMG_6675.jpegIMG_6678.jpegIMG_6679.jpeg
 
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bob58o

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I originally planned on pounding down the sleeves far enough so I wouldn’t have to nip the tips, but I think I need all that length to weld to the top bar of the frame.
IMG_6680.jpeg
 

bob58o

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And then I need a heavier purse to swing harder to get this off. I tried to cut a slot for a screw driver. I thought if I got it to spin, it might come off. The strap on my purse broke so I set it down for a while.

I’m not sure which tool would be best to try to cut it off (or close to off).
Would a dedicated “cupped”? Bearing puller / slide hammer be worth it?

Is this “bearing separator” the correct shape to use for this application?

IMG_6681.jpegIMG_6682.png
 
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bob58o

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This tool worked. Didn’t get it squared under it at first so it was off axis. I wasn’t able to use the puller part of the tool. I was able to put this separator tool mostly on, then smack the separator with my dead blow hammer. Came off pretty easy once I got the tool to apply the force in the right spot.
IMG_6683.jpeg
 
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bob58o

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Been a long time old friend.
I don’t remember what I’ve done.
I think I made this harbor freight 120V flux core DCEN (Direct Current Electride Negative). I don’t remember? I added a capacitor, a fan, 3 phase bridge rectifier diode (this heat sink thing, SQL150), an extra fan…

The extra fan turns on when I pull the trigger.

…. I think another step (I never completed) would have been to add an expensive inductor. Electronics aren’t my thing. I think one step was to convert AC to DC, then the inductor to smooth out the signal? Maybe LRC circuitry? I don’t remember these things.

Then I had to make ground the negative electrode and I think I upgraded the grounding clamp.


I wasn’t any good at welding before, or after, these modifications. IMG_6718.jpegIMG_6718.jpegIMG_6721.jpegIMG_6724.jpegIMG_6722.jpeg
 
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bob58o

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This head tube part of the frame is causing me sleepless nights. There seem to be a bunch of measurements that need to mesh together to make things fit correctly.

Bearing pocket seat to bearing pocket seat,
Overall length of tube,
Depth of bearing pockets,
Bearing “stick out” of pocket,

all this needs to be correct overall length to get position of top triple tree thing at right height to be level with top of forks,

need to take into account the height of the steering stem nut thing and the the depth of the capped nut thing on top of the whole thing.

I can use washers in places if needed. I’ve ignored spacing for “dust seals” so far.

Mt best guess measurements so far are about 135mm overall length with 10mm deep bearing pockets spaced 115mm from each other.
image.jpg
 
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