Advanced Hemi 212cc Predator Build

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Poboy kartman

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So are there grinding/polishing compounds in between 120 grit sand paper and black emery rouge for aluminum?

Maybe I'll go to Grainger on Monday. I think they have fine grit tapered cartridges.
I was trying to find a grit vs compound relationship chart.

Get some buffing pads/tips and compound. A POLISHING KIT! DUH! Meanwhile, see all those pink stones? They do a really good job of nearly polishing tight spots....(again...buy a cheap kit!!!!)

This isn't my polishing stuff...just the first thing I grabbed....
 

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chancer

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I'm Sorry but Jeeze! its a 99dollar motor. Not jewelry. Put it back togather and see if it runs!
Im getting bored.
 

bob58o

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Tell me bout these stones? Finer than 120 grit paper? Use with compound? I'll research on my own or read instructions if needed.
 

bob58o

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I'm Sorry but Jeeze! its a 99dollar motor. Not jewelry. Put it back togather and see if it runs!
Im getting bored.

Used to be $99. Now either Priceless or worthless!
As long as I can get the valves to seal and no unforeseen issues (like piston/rings)....
We are very close... I'm off Tuesday.

---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:01 PM ----------

Those are his! He was bored!
 

Poboy kartman

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You've got a pink tapered stone right next to your taper roll thats chucked up...they wear pretty quickly...which is good and bad....IIRC...the white stones are even finer...play with them a bit....spray them with WD-40 often.
 

bob58o

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Perhaps I can entertain you with a mini bike jump in the near future.
Been thinking it could used some suspension forks and a swing arm if I'm going to be jumping handfuls of feet!

---------- Post added at 10:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 PM ----------

I'm Sorry but Jeeze! its a 99dollar motor. Not jewelry. Put it back togather and see if it runs!
Im getting bored.

Poboy was right! So jealous!!!:lolgoku:

---------- Post added at 10:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ----------

http://blueroofdesigns.com/2009/07/29/what-are-these-dremel-thingies-for/

Grinding & Sharpening

Grinding and sharpening stones are made of two basic materials: silicon carbide (green bits) and aluminum oxide (brown, orange, pink, or grey bits).

Orange stones can be used with the following materials:

Ceramic tile
Glass
Mirror
Steel

Blue/green and pink stones can be used with the following materials:

Aluminum
Ceramic tile
Glass
Mirror

http://jmbh.org/DremelTute.html
Grinding Stones
Grinding stones are available in many shapes, sizes, grits and grades, and in two common materials.

The two available basic materials are: Silicon Carbide ("carborundum": green bits - very hard (hardness 9.5) and Aluminum Oxide ("emery"/"korund": brown, orange, pink and grey bits - a bit softer but still very hard (hardness 9)).

Grinding stones are generally used to remove material from or engrave hard materials such as like iron, steel, stone, ceramics and glass. There are many shapes available to cater for different jobs. However, grinding stones will wear in time, especially when used at low speeds and the bit will loose shape. In order to restore the shape of a grinding stone or to create your own shape use the Dressing Stone from Dremel. It is simply a small bar of Silicon Carbide.

To dress the stone set your tool to about half speed, hold your rotating grinding stone to the Dressing Stone and simply reshape or clean your grinding stone. Grinding stones should normally be used at high speeds for the greatest effictiveness.

Pure aluminum oxide is white and silicon carbide is black. The aluminium oxide will take on a grey colour when it contains impurities. To "color-code" the grit of the grinding stones and to bind the grinding particles together manufacturers may use additives. The more pure grit has a quality called friability; that is it easily fractures along crystal faces. This causes the grinding particles to maintain their sharpness but it causes the stone to wear more quickly. This is because the edges of the exposed crystals wear giving them round edges and on the more pure stones (used to achieve sharper edges on the ground piece) the worn crystal faces flake off exposing the sharp edges. However the grey aluminium oxide wear more slowly and produces more heat and creates a rougher finish.
 

Denny

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The more work you put in the short turn radius and the throat of the port the bigger the returns will be on power. I do not like the way that port necks down at the short turn. :mad:

Denny
 

bob58o

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The more work you put in the short turn radius and the throat of the port the bigger the returns will be on power. I do not like the way that port necks down at the short turn. :mad:

Denny

So the hog out the area where the port meets the bowl for less of a difference in cross-sectional area? (Turn the tapered port into a straight port). Because of the shape, it's hard to judge. I'd guess it is about the size of a quarter at the entry and the size of a nickle at the bowl. To me this is beyond a stage 1 port and polish, but it seems my style so.....

On the short side radius... I think I can get at it from the port entry without hitting the valve seat. I was scared to do too much there on the intake because of this, but feel more confident now. There is about 1/16" of room before I hit the non-business end of the seat if I keep the shape the same and go straight across. There is 1/8" inch of room in the center if I round out that side of the opening to make it more of circular opening (as opposed to "D" shaped). I wonder if the shape is critical. Is it important to keep flat part flat??? I am finding it difficult to explain this at 2:30 AM when sick and sleepy.

On the ceiling side....
I could cut deeper around the valve guide boss. In my head, I imagine shaping on either side of the guide to direct the mix. i.e. steeper on one side, more gradual on other... maybe affecting swirl?

I can do a little on the floor/short side radius, but keep the shape the same?
AND
A little around the guide boss area?
I think 1/32" on each side (increasing diameter by 1/16") would the area at the port entry and the area at the bowl close.
 

bob58o

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So this is the closest I could approximate with this simulator. They offer an option for Tillotson carb for 5HP briggs, which I used. And I found the valve springs.
 

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Denny

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I was thinking more of where the short side radius and the roof neck (choke) the port. By all means keep the D port shape intact. You are not looking to increase port size, just open up the flow. I think (?) you have understand what I mean about the throat area, just open it up and make it a little straighter to where the curving of the port starts.

Denny
 

FreeRunner15

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I asked my girlfriend to test the flow...
She wasn't sure the joke, but she knew the punch line.

Now we sit, both un-flow tested.:innocent:
:devil2:

Well i hope all three flow! i want to see this thing done and doing wheelies with time invested in only ONE baby! (the engine and/or transmission).

i wonder how quick a tank of gas will last after this and how much bigger of a camshaft that thing can handle. a .356maybe? .400?? duuuudeeee that thing would be superBeast.
 

bob58o

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I am actually scared that that the .275 will close to kissing the piston, but I don't know? My last measurement was probably garbage?

---------- Post added at 10:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:04 AM ----------

Trying to get a good pic of the short turn radius. There is not much meat between the seat side of the short radius and the seat (in the throat). Not sure what I could do there?

I think to open the throat (I'd have to work the short side radius from the port entry), I'd have to lower the flat part of the "D" on the short radius. This would change the angle of the port floor, increase volume, and make the short turn less sharp. (But not sure how much the throat would open? -contain yourself FR lol)
 

bob58o

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Because the short side radius is so "short" I feel like a lot of work would be needed to open the throat. I may be missing the idea here.

This pic is not representative of my head, but illustrates the idea. The red line I added for no good reason. Still sick, still sleepy.
 

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