Denny
Canned Monster
Just try cutting it all the way up with a cut off wheel and slotting the sprocket holes slightly so it can float until you tighten the pinch point, then tighten the sprocket.
A Dingos Tale part 2
- Thread starter Whitetrashrocker
- Start date
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
So how long will a stock rod hold up to a built top end?
About this long, and mabe a few minutes more.
About this long, and mabe a few minutes more.
Denny
Canned Monster
What kart is that? Use thicker oil, it will be ok.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Thats my first dingo with the 301.
You think 90w would do or should i just go to 140w
You think 90w would do or should i just go to 140w
Denny
Canned Monster
John Deere corn head grease! 
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Pulled the 301 apart.
Look here class, this is why you buy the billet rod from the get go.
The rod is .010"-.012" out of round.
The crank has some marking but I can't feel it with my nail. I'm gonna try and see if polishing it will clean it up.
Look here class, this is why you buy the billet rod from the get go.
The rod is .010"-.012" out of round.
The crank has some marking but I can't feel it with my nail. I'm gonna try and see if polishing it will clean it up.
Attachments
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20241226_174507.jpg
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
The bore is good. Measured just .001" over on the vertical at the top.
The rings are good. Lol.
.040 is the max gap and what's on the feelers.
Now to source parts.....
The rings are good. Lol.
.040 is the max gap and what's on the feelers.
Now to source parts.....
Denny
Canned Monster
Polish the journal and check it for round.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
As per the ring thread... I've found some rings for the 301 and as of now still waiting on the mailman.
In the mean time I've made a fuel gauge for El Chingon!.
Only works from half to empty but that's where your most interested anyways, right?
In the mean time I've made a fuel gauge for El Chingon!.
Only works from half to empty but that's where your most interested anyways, right?
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Rings came in. And they are the right ones! Now that I know I can proceed, it's time to order a rod.
Here's a new one with .018 gap with is good. And the old one in there to show how much wear it had.
Now another 2 weeks for anything to get to my door.
Here's a new one with .018 gap with is good. And the old one in there to show how much wear it had.
Now another 2 weeks for anything to get to my door.
Hellion
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Too late now, but in post #29 I noticed you have the "Manco" pedals the wrong way around. The right pedal is on the left and 180° off and vice versa for the left pedal.
You have a piece of vertical tube welded in front of both pedals now, if I saw it correctly, which impedes the pedals but moving the pedals around might mean a more comfortable foot angle (as intended) and the upright on the pedal acts as a lateral footrest and "pocket" that holds the feet away from the spindles and spinning wheels. Anyhoo, I figure you did it for reasons.
I haven't seen this thread since Nov 2023! Fine work.
You have a piece of vertical tube welded in front of both pedals now, if I saw it correctly, which impedes the pedals but moving the pedals around might mean a more comfortable foot angle (as intended) and the upright on the pedal acts as a lateral footrest and "pocket" that holds the feet away from the spindles and spinning wheels. Anyhoo, I figure you did it for reasons.
I haven't seen this thread since Nov 2023! Fine work.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Thanks hellion. Good to see you around again.
The pedals. Yeah yeah. Dennys already called me out on those. That just fits the way I have my feet. I'd tried all 4 variations. Both karts are that way.
The foot box changed when I added the front end. It's a little uncomfortable now.
I did find some funky pedals that were straight instead of the curved. I'm gonna try them.
I'll put pics when I get them.
Today's a beautiful 65° and sunny so I'm out burning 100 octane.
The pedals. Yeah yeah. Dennys already called me out on those. That just fits the way I have my feet. I'd tried all 4 variations. Both karts are that way.
The foot box changed when I added the front end. It's a little uncomfortable now.
I did find some funky pedals that were straight instead of the curved. I'm gonna try them.
I'll put pics when I get them.
Today's a beautiful 65° and sunny so I'm out burning 100 octane.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Master Hack
Well-known member
Nice little backyard test circuit! Dat would be fun!
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
OK pedals came in. I got the Purdy Shiney ones instead of black. Shiney is faster, right?
Had to trim some metal here and there to make em fit. But this is normal.
The differential cable pull fit nicely in side the pedal and the supplied bolt fit the bore size perfectly. I had to drill a new hole in the right spot but it works great.
The cables are the front drum brakes and the rod works the hydrolic rear. I can adjust the fronts to match the rear stop power.
Here's the throttle. My cable was never long enough so I made a spanner out of some aluminum channel I had. The new pedal had a hole here. A carbide burr made it clearance better.
The throttle hits the frame at WOT.
And here's the finished look.
Yeah I see it. They're backwards.
Had to trim some metal here and there to make em fit. But this is normal.
The differential cable pull fit nicely in side the pedal and the supplied bolt fit the bore size perfectly. I had to drill a new hole in the right spot but it works great.
The cables are the front drum brakes and the rod works the hydrolic rear. I can adjust the fronts to match the rear stop power.
Here's the throttle. My cable was never long enough so I made a spanner out of some aluminum channel I had. The new pedal had a hole here. A carbide burr made it clearance better.
The throttle hits the frame at WOT.
And here's the finished look.
Yeah I see it. They're backwards.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
New pedals work great.
Finally got around to buttoning up the 301. Figured I'd maintenance the cvt while I had it apart. How's this key look?
Jut turn it 90° and keep on.
Nah I cut a new one.
Got it all assembled and fired her up. Went around the track for a few laps at just above idle to break in the new rings.
Then did a few full throttle squirts. Man this one if fun. Lots of torque and tire spinning.
Then a few laps in El Chingon.
uh yeah. This one spanks the mule. It wouldn't be close racing theses 2 together.
Maybe I should set aside some funding for a flywheel, cam and springs.
Finally got around to buttoning up the 301. Figured I'd maintenance the cvt while I had it apart. How's this key look?
Jut turn it 90° and keep on.
Nah I cut a new one.
Got it all assembled and fired her up. Went around the track for a few laps at just above idle to break in the new rings.
Then did a few full throttle squirts. Man this one if fun. Lots of torque and tire spinning.
Then a few laps in El Chingon.
uh yeah. This one spanks the mule. It wouldn't be close racing theses 2 together.
Maybe I should set aside some funding for a flywheel, cam and springs.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
When you push limits you find weak spots.
A head stud pulled the threads in the block. Gotta see how bad it will be to put a helicoil in it.
Here's the head side. You can see the washing on the top side.
And the mating surface. It's full of oil.
The lower right stud is in a oil galley that feeds the valve cover.
Someone warned me about the rubber intake manifold. Here's your " I told you so".
Maybe a few hours on it.
Gonna have to get a solid one or make my own.
A head stud pulled the threads in the block. Gotta see how bad it will be to put a helicoil in it.
Here's the head side. You can see the washing on the top side.
And the mating surface. It's full of oil.
The lower right stud is in a oil galley that feeds the valve cover.
Someone warned me about the rubber intake manifold. Here's your " I told you so".
Maybe a few hours on it.
Gonna have to get a solid one or make my own.
Denny
Canned Monster
A lot of top fuel blocks are helicoiled because of lifting heads and pulling the studs out. It will be fine.
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
My concern was drilling and taping the hole and keeping the crud out of the case. It's a through hole on that stud. Not a blind hole.
While I had the chance I measured the ring gap. .025 top and .015 second.
A little large. I was under the assumption this was a 63.5mm. I measured it at 63mm. Glad I don't just blind order for this engine. Nothing has been "as advertised"
While I had the chance I measured the ring gap. .025 top and .015 second.
A little large. I was under the assumption this was a 63.5mm. I measured it at 63mm. Glad I don't just blind order for this engine. Nothing has been "as advertised"
Whitetrashrocker
Inmate #952016
Here's the threads I pulled out.
