2020 - Excalibur Electric Racing kart

[Functional Artist]

I made the mounting bracket on the pedal a bit "off set" to align with the thumb throttle

This also, helps to keep the "linkage assembly" further, off to the side
…& "outta harms way"

The cable "slides" thru the small hole in the end of the "connector"
...the "barrel head", on the end of the cable, fits in the "loop"
…& a "stop nut", on the other end of the cable, engages/catches the "lever" on the thumb throttle

The throttle pedal "throw" seems to be ~3"

 

[Functional Artist]

I tried a spring "in-between" the pedal & thumb throttle
...but, it was still kinda "floppy"

So, I bent a couple of pieces of 1/4" rod into a U shape
...to use as/for "pedal stops"

The brake doesn't seem to need one
...but, the throttle was kinda floppy (when released)
…& also, the pedal could put "too much" pressure, on the thumb throttle, when "floored" or fully applied

Yup, she's good-n-solid now (in both directions)
…& no "pressure" on the thumb throttle (it's just "along for the ride")

 

[Functional Artist]

I re-installed the floorboard, steering assembly & seat again
…so, I could actually/physically, get in/sit down & make sure everything "worked together"

The seat feels comfortable
...& firm

The steering height
...& distance from driver seems good

The brake pedal/action is super firm
...& it "would/should "stop on a dime"

The throttle pedal is not difficult to actuate (sometimes springs are kinda "stiff" just before "stretching")
…it returns/springs back nicely
…the petal positions seem good too
(from zero throttle thru full throttle the drivers foot is not in an awkward position)
…& the thumb throttle (electronic component) seems safe "tucked" off to the side

 

[landuse]

It looks good to me!

 

[Functional Artist]

It looks good to me!

Thanks!

It's been kinda rainy & humid lately
…& we got a lot of "bare" metal "exposed"

I guess it's time to "seal 'er up"

So, I took 'er all back apart again
…meticulously smoothed & cleaned every piece (every "nook-n-cranny")
…& wiped 'er down/gave 'er a "bath" in paint thinner

Then, sprayed a good coat of Self Etching Primer
...looks kinda "faded" Army Green
...or even Olive Drab (Hawkeye-M*A*S*H*)

 

[Functional Artist]

While the primer was dryin', on the chassis, I started roundin' up electrical components
…& made up a dash board

It'll have a circuit breaker/main cut-off switch
...the on/off switch
…& the forward reverse switch

Ima gonna use a 48V 150A Buss MRCB circuit breaker as both a "resettable" fuse
…& the main cut-off switch

A "rocker style" switch will activate/turn on or off the speed controller

The "duck bill" switch will "signal" to the speed controller the, drivers, "intended direction of travel"

* Flipped forward, indicates ya wanna to go forward
...& "flipped" toward the back will "reverse" the direction of travel

 

[Functional Artist]

Power Wires

The leads coming out of the SC (speed controller) for a 48V 1,000W motor use big (~10g.) wires for the "power wires", these bring the "power in" from the battery (+/-) & also, to send "power out" to the motor (+/-)
…& then, they use smaller (~20g.) wires to send/receive "signals", like on/off & reverse

To use for the "power wires", I got some red (10g.) wire for the positive (+) side
…& some black (10g.) wire to connect the negative (-) side

For the "signal wires" I got a kool lookin', blue "cable" that has (9) individual/colored (20g.) wires within it

I figured, I'd "run" the bigger "power wires" first (more cumbersome)
…& then, "run" the smaller "signal wires" (easier to "tuck in")

So, starting @ the front right batteries positive (+) terminal, I ran a piece of the red "power" wire from it, to the "Line" side of the CB (circuit breaker)
…& then, ran another piece from the, "Load" side of the CB to the SC

* The electrical "current" must flow in the designated direction, thru the CB, for it to "function" properly

** Since both of these wires, look/are the same
…will "run" down the right side of the kart
...& will also, connect to the CB, I "color coded" the ends, to easily indicate which one is the "power in" (red) coming from the battery
...& which one is the "power out" (yellow) going to the SC

 

[Functional Artist]

Before "runnin' the signal wires, from the dash board to the SC (speed controller)
...we gotta figure out how & where we are gonna mount the SC

* We also gotta keep in mind that "test #2" will use (2) motors
...which means we gotta provide mounting "space" for (2) SC's

So, I was thinkin' to just mount a "panel" across the "roll bar/seat back" right behind the seat
….takin' it a "step further", I figured I could kinda "box in" the bottom, to protect & support the plugs & connections
…& then, I figured why not "box in" the top too

* This "double boxing" will make for a good-n-strong "structure"
...so, it can be made from lighter materials

So, I'ma gonna try-n-make it outta some 16g. aluminum (same as the floor board & battery trays)
...but, first I made a "test piece" outta some cardboard

** I even folded/bent it in the sheet metal bender, for nice-n-crisp fold/bend lines

Yup, that should work
...just gotta make 'er outta metal now

 

[Functional Artist]

Next, I used the card board "mock up" as a template to mark the metal (another old sign)

* Before cuttin', I drilled some holes where the inside cuts will intersect (for nice/clean "inner" corners)

Smoothed/deburred the edges, a bit
…& then, took 'er to the bender

1 1/2" from top bend to 90*
...then, slide 'er out another 1 1/2"
...& then, bend 'er to 90* again

For the bottom, I flipped 'er around
…& simply, repeated the procedure

 

[Functional Artist]

Did a quick test fit
…& added some screw holes for mounting

Before paintin', I had to drill some holes to "run" the plugs/wires thru

The big ~1" hole is for the "signal" wires
…& the smaller ~3/8" hole is for the "power" wires

* I went ahead & drilled the holes, to "run" the plugs/wires thru, for SC #2
...but, they should have been the same on both sides

Both of the small holes should have been on the left
...& both big holes should have been on the right
** Noticed it, while it was dryin'
Oh well, I'll deal with it later

 

[Functional Artist]

I popped a 3/8" rubber grommet into (1) of the small holes
…& a 3/4" grommet into (1) of the big holes

Then, poked the wires/plugs thru
…& used a couple of screws to "bolt 'er down"

Nice-n-clean "look"
…plus, good-n-sturdy

The connections will be protected from "all" sides
…& there's also, easy access by either removing (4) screws & tilting the panel
...or by removing the seat

 

[Brianator]

Good stuff man! You do nice work

 

[landuse]

Looks excellent. Nice and neat as always

 

[Functional Artist]

Thanks fellas

So, I "ran" the kool blue (9) wire harness to the rear "connection box"
…& connected the wires to their corresponding plugs

Also, I think I came up with a clever idea for protecting, insulating & mounting the shunt
...for the PZEM-051 (100V 100A) electrical monitoring system

I got some 1" vinyl tube (with some kool braiding)
…& simply "slid" the shunt inside (fits nice-n-tight)

Then, it can easily be mounted to the bottom of the "connection box"

 

[Functional Artist]

Finishin' up the wiring

I didn't like the "open terminals" on them "big" power wires
...so, I covered 'em up

 

[Functional Artist]

Tidying up some "small stuff"

I measured, marked & cut some "spacers" (1) for between the sprocket & bearing
...& (1) for between the sprocket & wheel

Also, (1) "spacer" for between the brake drum & bearing
…& (1) for between the brake drum & wheel

Then, cleaned 'em up & sprayed 'em satin black

* To be able to "tell" the difference between the (2) "spacers" for the left & the (2) for the right, I marked the (2) for the left side with a small "notch"

While they were dryin' I started some re-assembly

I installed the "trays" (1) on each side
...& the batteries (2) on each side

 

[Functional Artist]

Before mounting (1) of the ZY-1020 motors, I had ta "switch" the drive sprocket
...from the one that came on it (for #25 chain)
...over to a Power Curve Sprocket (for a #35 chain)

* Remember the bolt, that hold's the sprocket on these motors, have left-hand or "reverse" threads

I used a pair of plyers (opened "up big") to "grip" the sprocket
…& an impact driver, to remove the bolt

Then, reversed the procedure, to install the "new" one
(he he, double reverse)
Also, installed the sticker
...gotta "represent"

 

[Functional Artist]

I "mounted" the motor on the mount (version #1)
…& then, "mounted" 'em on the kart

*notice the kool black "spacers"

Then, I brought 'er out & put 'er on the worktable (ta get 'er used to the outdoors)
…& started re-installing the steering components

 

[PullHorse]

This is your best build that I've seen. Very clean and slick. Lets hope it steers nicely and has some punch.

 

[gegcorp2012]

I'm actually hoping to see some tire smoke !

Looking really good, everything seems well matched and fitted.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk