2019 - Scrap rod build

[Smerft85]

I pulled the wet clutch when I removed the engine from the shaller kart ( yes it was a pay and ride kart) and installed it on the dingo for a short time, it has a 1" standard shaft with no splines. If there is a CC that will stand up to the power it would be a super simple fix.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

www.gopowersports.com has 1" shaft clutches.
I think they're about $50.
As for holding up to the power, it should be just fine.
Centrifugal clutches can handle a LOT of power since they're so simple. TCs are a little less forgiving since they're more complex.

 

[Smerft85]

Looks like they are more like $80, might take a little longer, but I'll have room to do it closer to "the right way."

 

[Smerft85]

I just got the CC in, only one I could find was a 14 tooth, so with the gx270, no governor, 18" tires I have two choices for axle sprocket, I have a 54 tooth, and if I didn't miss count a 65 tooth, which is less likely to burn up the clutch and perform well with a 150 pound rider?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Yup, go for the bigger one.

 

[Smerft85]

That's what I was figuring, hopefully I can get it off the old rusty axle in one piece.

 

[Smerft85]

I counted the teeth on the bigger sprocket, it's a 68 tooth. When I ran the calculator I did 18" tire, 4000 rpm, 14 tooth and 68 tooth for an approximate top speed of 45 mph, I don't think it will burn rubber, but I feel like acceleration would be decent without getting the clutch too hot, am I on the right track? I admit, I never truely understood ratios clearly.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

You should lower the ratio. That will cause premature clutch wear, and that's not good on an $80 clutch.
Your options are jackshaft, bigger sprocket, or smaller wheels.

 

[Smerft85]

You should lower the ratio. That will cause premature clutch wear, and that's not good on an $80 clutch.
Your options are jackshaft, bigger sprocket, or smaller wheels.

I have a jackshaft sitting, it has 9 tooth sprockets on it, would that help any? I don't really understand what they do exactly either.

---------- Post added at 04:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:54 PM ----------

I'm getting 4.86:1 according to the calculator weather I use the jackshaft or not, I believe I read somewhere on the forum the general goal is 6:1, doesn't that mean my ratio is already on the low geared end of the spectrum?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Nonononono....
Low means the drive wheel(s) are spinning slower than other gearings in relation to the engine, with more torque.
High means the drive wheel(s) are spinning faster than other gearings in relation to the engine, with less torque.
That's the best I could explain it. But, 6 to 1 (6/1) means the engine is spinning 6 times to turn the wheel once, and 4.86/1 means the engine is spinning 4.86 times to turn the wheel once.

6/1 is lower than 4.86/1.

To lower the gear ratio with a jackshaft you need a bigger input sprocket and a smaller output sprocket. Someone here can help you with the specifics.

 

[Smerft85]

So I should be looking at like an 80 tooth sprocket if I don't want a jackshaft? I may just put it together with the 68 tooth for now until I have the cash for a larger one and keep the driving to a minimum, as well as take it easy. I'm not sure I have the space to do a jackshaft, everything is already super tight, but a larger sprocket should squeeze in ok, I'll get a few pictures in a bit so you can see the space issues.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

5.7143 would be the gear ratio with the 80T sprocket. With 18" tires that's not good, but better than the 68T.
You really need a jackshaft, unless you want pay a LOT for clutches!

 

[Smerft85]

Ok, 14t clutch, 14t in for jackshafts and 9t out with the 68t gives me a 7.5:1, that would make it so I only need a 14t to go on the jackshaft and more chain. That should be about where I need to be?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Should work.

 

[Smerft85]

Need to keep my thread alive. I've got everything laid out to build the jackshaft, and need to finish steering, however time hasn't been on my side lately, my younger brother blew up the engine in his car, so I've been using my spare time replacing it. Another weekend or two and I'll get back to work and get some pictures posted.

 

[Smerft85]

Got a little bit done tonight, took a crappy frame from outside and cut the spindles off, they will allow me to use a set of wheels in the front with heavier hubs.

I'm kinda digging the old hi-boy look the spindles have created, will make it a little better ride on the rough roads and trails around here, what do you guys think of the stance? Sorry for the dark picture, it's snowing here.

 

[Smerft85]

Considering pulling the front half of the body, keeping the wheelbarrow, but get away from the hand controls idea. I like the look, but I worry about flipping it and being trapped.

 

[Dingocat]

Put it lowwwwww. Axle on top of the frame and spindles up good bit.

 

[Smerft85]

Spindles are already welded on, and when it was low I didn't fit. I wish I had a bigger barrow bucket to work with, but I guess free is always the right price. If the front half of the body, hood and fenders is gone it feels a lot like sitting in the dingo. I like the utility of the dingo so I am ok with that. I could make it sit more level by putting the rear axle on top still, but I like the raked look too.

 

[Smerft85]

Got a few more things done, engine plate welded in and slots cut, sprocket, brake, axle and jackshaft are done and in place. I removed the hood and hood skirts/fender wells so I can run common foot controls.

Still need to do steering column, thread the rear axle on the ends, floorpan of some sort, cut chain, and run linkages and cables. I also took a second bed frame and tubed the frame, spindles will also need lengthened, and I've got to rob the tank from the gx390 on the shelf. One tube and I should be hopefully done before Christmas.

I want to get it done soon so I can go spin it around in the snow, so I'm trying to put more time into it before I go hunting on Saturday morning.