2019 - New GrandDaddy build (contd 2018)

[pa17315]

Hydraulic brake light switch wiring diagram

I have this part on my master cylinder. It is a hydraulic brake light switch. Any gentleman or ladies know a simple wiring diagram on how to wire this switch.

From battery, to switch to lights...

My minds is going numb from so much info. It is the same function as the motorcycle hydraulic brake light switch. I need the complete diagram.

Thanks

Found this at this url: https://support.electricscooterparts.com/support/discussions/topics/1000039945

New part arrived. I am still waiting for other parts to come. Hopefully, I can make some sense out of these

Another part comes today. Flasher relay, 4"x2" LED signal lights from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YEH9K60/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1B2SF9J2WBIQS&psc=1

I am still missing brake light

 

[pa17315]

Emergency Hand Brake Lever Part 2

New part, "Rear Hand Brake Cable for Honda TRX420 Rancher" has arrived however I need to modify it to work with my go-kart.

Changes were made:

New cable is too long, need to shorten it to fit current set up.

New guide was made for brake cable and provide slots for hydraulic brake line, throttle cable and extra holes for electrical wirings.

Adjust rear brake caliper for emergency brakes.

Pics will be posted soon

Sometimes, the simple solution is the one we don't normally see, instead we brainstorm to work out many different ways to accomplish our tasks. Often, these schemes are so convoluted and complex that it takes the fun out of building and creating.

Such as the case above, I have a need to incorporate emergency lever in my go-kart. I have a caliper from China, a brake cable from Honda 420 atv, and an emergency lever from Hyundai car. All of these parts need to mesh together to function correctly.

From YouTube, I saw a guy showing how to adjust hand brake caliper. Although it is not the same type of caliper but the principle must be the same.

The brake cable is too long, so I cut it. What is the worse can happen. Money down the drain, however a lesson learned.

An emergency lever is just that. It has only one function, pull up to lock and release.

Throwing aside all schematics that I have formulated for the past week, I told myself that I have 15 minutes max. to make it work before calling a night. Just Keep It Simple_KIS.

Enclosed pics show my process:

Cut cable, remove it from cable end, chamfer the end of cable to reuse cable end again.

Drill (2) 1/4 inch holes into 11 gauge 3/4 square steel tube to mate the brake cable with cable from Hyundai lever Now I have (3) points of tensioning brake cables independently. From the Hyundai lever, Hyundai brake cable end, and Honda atv cable end. (3/4" square tube is used to keep (2) cable adjusting end from shearing effect.)

At the caliper, a 3/4" long by 1/4" bolts is used to keep the cable from coming loose under pressure and a make shift cable stop from 1" long by 3/8" bolt.

Last, loosing the brass nut on the caliper and turn in the caliper bolt until it stop. Tighten the brass nut.

Push the kart and then pull the emergency lever....Voila....it works....

Pictures will be posted when I take it out tomorrow on a hill for a test.

 

[pa17315]

Predator 420cc Engine doesn't start solved

For some reasons, the predator 420cc engine doesn't start. I am not sure of the problem. It could be anything, the weather is getting cold. It is between 35-37 degree Fahrenheit outside.

I was going to take the go-kart outside of my garage and test the emergency brake lever which I have recently installed. The engine started once and when I tried to turn the choke off, it died. I have tried to start the engine for another 15 minutes. Here are the results:

Engine has refused to turn over
Engine was flooded, because of the gas smell.
Engine cranks and gas/oil mixtures is coming out of the exhaust pipe
The mixtures is dark, oily and smell like gas
The battery was 3/4 charged and I gave up when battery is drained

I let the engine rest and charged the battery while doing some research of the problem.

YouTube research has shown me to unflood the engine by turn the choke off, full gas throttle and start the engine until it burns up or clear the flooded gas.

Another option was remove the spark plug, check for damage, clean the spark plug. Without installing the spark plug with the gas shut off, pull the cord a few time to clear the gas. Install the spark plug, test for spark with spark plug tester. If there are spark, then try to start the engine.

I went through engine starting procedure as per manual. Full choke, 1/3 throttle, gas lever on. I have also checked for any kinks in fuel line, fuel filter blockage from debris.

The results was the same. Engine cranks but doesn't turn over or start. This process also drain the battery again.

Another search and this time it mentions problem with gas oil mixture and/or bad spark plug

Luckily, I have taken notes since the engine was brought home.

Original break-in period was 3 hours and I have used Synthetic Mobile 1, 0W-20 oil.

Drained the oil and refiled with Synthetic Mobile 1, 0W-20 again. New after market carburetor was installed with air mixture screw. That performed fine for another 17 hours.

Change the oil again and this time used manual recommended oil Quaker State SAE Synthetic 10W-40 oil. It performed for exactly 3.5 hours until the engine cranks but doesn't start.

Noted: The weather outside also dropped from 60 to 35 degree Fahrenheit.

I have taken the spark plug out again and drained the oil overnight.

Next morning, refilled with Synthetic Mobile 1, 0W-20. Before going to town and buy a new spark plug, I thought that I may try my luck with factory "Bosch" plug.

It starts on the first time. I let it run for 2 hours.

The experts would explain engine problems which many of us will faced eventually. I assume oil viscosity and cold weather may have a factor. If you are seeing the above symptoms in colder weather, then change to a thinner viscosity oil. Please, input so we can learn.

Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester from Amazon

 

[pa17315]

Tachometer reviews

On post #54 and #56, I have installed a "Hardline Products HR-8061-2 Hour Meter/Tachometer for up to 2-Cylinder Engines" from Amazon for $25.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FOOAXY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have also bought "DTI TECH-TACH TT-20K" for $100.00.

I have uploaded a video. You can make a decision to invest in a more expensive Tach or Amazon Tach. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zi0PH-t8vmM&feature=youtu.be)

The second video with factory carburetor. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78PKJX_GKzM&feature=youtu.be)

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

The presence of oil, regardless of temperature, can rarely be blamed for the failure of an engine to start.

 

[pa17315]

The presence of oil, regardless of temperature, can rarely be blamed for the failure of an engine to start.

Yeah, I didn't know that. Apparently, after replacing 10w-40 oil with 0w-20 oil. Engine has not given me any problems so far with either factory or after market carburetors.

I have taken two videos with factory and after market carburetors. On the after market carburetor, with the presence of air mixture screw, I can lower the RPM to 1050 with idle screw and the engine still hum along nicely. The factory carburetor that does not have air mixture screw, the lowest I can bring the engine to idling without dying out is 1200 rpm.

Live and learn. What a lesson into small engine. I didn't know it was this complicated.

Thanks

 

[pa17315]

Gas throttle connection

From the pics below, current setup with gas throttle cable connection to gas pedal only allow throttle to extend 1/3 distance from idle screw. As it is, my go kart can reach to 35 mph when gas pedal is floored. There is another safety concern that the cable can be snag. It has happened to me on one of the test drive. I have a piece of plywood for flooring and I did not bolt it down. Along the drive, the plywood has slide forward and pushed against the throttle cable. I turn off the engine by the kill switch. It has happened twice until I have realized what has happened.

I need to come up a better way to increase throttle distance and move the throttle cable out of the way.

Here is my solution, keeping the throttle cable away and also have full throttle when the gas pedal is pressed.

Shorten throttle cable sleeve
Make another wing/bolt to hold throttle sleeve
Another wing/bolt with makeshift roller for throttle cable

Again, I have different adjustment point to tighten up the throttle cable.
Roller wing/bolt could be longer to increase or decrease lateral movement
Captured 5/16 threaded rod could be longer to increase or decrease cable tension
I can move the captured spring up one notch to decrease throttle opening.

Few more testing to see if I can improve on it. If can find "Bearing Guide Roller Pulley" with v-grove that has 1/4 id, I can control throttle cable movement better.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I think my opinion here is that, for safety's sake, don't ever drive/test drive with flooring not secured to he kart. Besides holding your throttle open, other bad consequences could occur.

Moving the clevis of the cable into the "higher" hole on the pedal will result in more extension of cable with pedal movement. But the angle of the cable as it exits the sheathing is bad now and would get worse if you move the clevis higher. If you could rotate the plate where the cable sheath is held, it would be a good idea I think.

 

[Kartorbust]

For flooring I would look at getting some 14ga or 12ga sheet metal and either weld it or rivet in place. It'll last longer I think than wood and a bit lighter too. As well as not pertrude so much off the frame.

 

[pa17315]

For flooring I would look at getting some 14ga or 12ga sheet metal and either weld it or rivet in place. It'll last longer I think than wood and a bit lighter too. As well as not pertrude so much off the frame.

Not fun heading downhill and throttle is wide open. Hit the kill switch, now I am rolling backward heading toward the ditch....Thanks God, it was just me test driving.

Worse part....Twice it has happened.


Hence emergency parking lever is so important.....

---------- Post added at 09:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 AM ----------

I think my opinion here is that, for safety's sake, don't ever drive/test drive with flooring not secured to he kart. Besides holding your throttle open, other bad consequences could occur.

Moving the clevis of the cable into the "higher" hole on the pedal will result in more extension of cable with pedal movement. But the angle of the cable as it exits the sheathing is bad now and would get worse if you move the clevis higher. If you could rotate the plate where the cable sheath is held, it would be a good idea I think.

I have tried those options, and throttle cable is still hanging. Twice rolling downhill backward is enough.

Floor plate next, bolt in.

 

[pa17315]

Go-Kart floor

Picked up 10 gauge sheet metal for go kart floor and 18 gauge metal for fender/mud guard.

LED lights, signal switch and relay also came in the mail.

It is time for next tasks.

Floor plate
LED light signals
Mud guard/Fender

The more time I am investing in this go-kart, I am not quite sure that I am building a dune buggy or a street rod!

 

[Kartorbust]

Be it a kart, dune buggy, or street rod, I'll enjoy the progress either way.

 

[pa17315]

Go-Kart LED turn signals set-up Part 1

I finally figured out how to wire these lights together. On the relay, there is a slot where you can adjust flashing frequency. On the turn signal switch, I am sure the color of the wires correct. Same item with the same wires by two different seller on Ebay has the wire colors set up differently. I have to take it apart to confirm. It could've been confirmed with other methods but I did not bring it to work with me.

On the universal handle bar turn signal switch, here are the wire designations:

2 white wires are for horn, green button
2 red wires are for head light, red button

3 wire bank, yellow brown and green
yellow wire is for left turn signal
brown wire in between is the power source from flasher relay
green wire is for right turn signal


Current wirings are for two sets of turn signals. I will be making a video to be uploaded soon.

Here is the video for it. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lhpg_bK9HJM&feature=youtu.be)

I will also update this post when I get LED brake light. It will be two sets of turn signals and led brake light. Signals will be operated from the switch and the LED brake light will be tied into hydraulic brake.

After reviewing this set up, I don't need the horn, and or the light button. I am replacing the turn signal switch with "ROCKER SWITCH ON-OFF-ON" 4 pins connection from Ebay. It will function as the turn signal switch for my go-kart.

 

[pa17315]

Tie Rods

This is one of the part that I have forgotten to upload. All the parts were bought from Lowes. Instead of investing in premade tie rods for go-kart. I thought a similar thing could be build where off the shelf parts are readily available and you can build cheaply.

3/8"-16 threaded tie rods
3/8"-16 coupling nuts
3/4"x3/16" steel bar
3/8" nuts, washers and lock washers

If I would have to do over again, I would upgrade above parts to 1/2" or 5/8" diameter. It would be stiffer.

Here are some pictures of the tie rods that I have taken this morning.

 

[Kartorbust]

Holy mother of C-clamps! Nice job of wiring everything.

 

[pa17315]

Holy mother of C-clamps! Nice job of wiring evwrything.

And I used every single one of them on this project.

 

[pa17315]

Go-Kart floor 2

New 10 gauge steel floor has been installed. I have some time here and there during the past week to sneak out and work on the floor a little bit.

I have also adding a 5/8" steering wheel storage post on the go-kart. Now the steering wheel can be taken off to create some room so you can get in the go-kart. Once you are in, a removable steering wheel can be inserted onto steering shaft.

Here it is, bolted in and un-painted. I am taking it out for another test drive today to see if my throttle cable system works

 

[pa17315]

Emergency Hand Brake Lever Part 3

Testing Emergency Hand Brake Lever on a hill. It holds up, stop the go-kart on the hill.

Conclusion: This is a cost efficient way to build an Emergency Hand Brake Lever from vehicle parking brake lever. You can pick up an used one on Ebay for under 15 bucks. Most levers are well build and easily adapt to your go-kart.

There is an welcoming sound of positive clicks when lever is engaging.

 

[pa17315]

Predator 420cc Engine doesn't start solved Part 2

Same thing has happened when I have started an engine today. It has cranked but doesn't turn over.

Remove factory Bosch spark plug and replace it with NGK Standard Spark Plugs - 7432 B6ES. It starts on the first crank.

Here is a picture of factory Bosch spark plug and after market one.

Is it a bad spark plug or is it dirty? Is the engine is running too rich?

 

[pa17315]

Test Drive #3

10 gauge metal floor, and emergency hand brake have been installed. Gas cable throttle performs well, now that I can have full throttle, the engine really picks up.

Doing brief inspection at the end of run, I have found that couple of collar set screws were gone.

Minor adjustments are still need to be done on the go-kart. Camber, Loctite set screws and bolts.

Overall, I am happy that I have gone this far. Now I want to focus on turning signal lights for the go-kart.

(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sld72rS5NaI&feature=youtu.be)