2016 - My go kart rebuild

[David Ham]

After a win at footy I headed over to the shed to work on the go-kart.



making sure the axle will be pretty much straight...

and the pilot holes, very carefully drilled out

 

[David Ham]

after noticing two grubscrew holes on the clutch, I decided to make something for them









there was a screw thread on the inside of the engine shaft, so I put a screw in it!

 

[David Ham]

Just some (slightly) finer details, adding tubing so the suspension wont slide around

axle is mounted!


a piece of aluminium I will use for the engine mount

cut to size using a waning cutting disk on a grinder with the help of a hacksaw!

 

[David Ham]

engine plate thingo

I have added some neoprene rubber to help absorb a little bit of vibration

oil drops might be a little tricky...

lining things up...

...and i have to remove more links!

finally, after many hours and washers, the chain is tight and ready to go!
Yeahh!!
ground clearance may be an issue, which is why I want bigger wheels but they're hard to find

brake drum

brake drum with the brake belt around it.

 

[David Ham]

Making up some aluminium sleeves to hold the wheels on, I managed to find a morse taper drill that fit onto the lathe so I'm set!

 

[chancer]

Remove the Rubber engine pads. They just cause problems. Like chain tension.
Speaking of that. Usually engine plates are slotted so you can slide the engine to adjust chain tension.
Looking good though!

 

[Poboy kartman]

Remove the Rubber engine pads. They just cause problems. Like chain tension.
Speaking of that. Usually engine plates are slotted so you can slide the engine to adjust chain tension.
Looking good though!

Yes. and yes....Engine plates should be slotted....and rubber pads are a bad idea....HOWEVER... without slots..the "isolation pads" cannot allow the engine to creep.....sooooo...no chain loosening! BUT! It's gonna be a pain adjusting chain tension. Probably the best solution is a plywood base under the engine and a slotted plate....but...whatever...

 

[David Ham]

I was planning on slotting the engine mounting plate but I wnat to take it for a test drive first. And I may remove the rubber if it causes problems...
anyway I began to set up the throttle, no mods or governor removal or anything, I think I will have enough power
I took out the tightening washer cause its annoying

I seriously do not trust these wheels

wait, it needs a spring!

and its all set to go!

 

[David Ham]

Well, I gave up trying to do the throttle as it is, and one of the springs on the governor thing came off, so I started ripping it to bits. But I'm not sure about taking this side off, do I need to mark the screws or not? I'll use the oil for the clutch

 

[Jfive]

I don't like the throttle hook up on these either. Looks a lot easier on the new predator engines.

 

[Functional Artist]

Looks Good! Keep workin on it.
Is the steering wheel off a Kenworth? LOL

 

[David Ham]

governor removal!



how to get out the last washer, use a magnetic screwdriver

the remains


uh, dont ask why I did this

 

[David Ham]

this is probably gonna end up being the exhaust and muffler.

some throttle setup I am improvising with the remains of the governor pieces.

 

[ultralight01]

Nice job! I did something similar with the governor arm and parts...

 

[landuse]

Nice

 

[chancer]

Yep. Looks good to me. Much simpler throttle.

 

[David Ham]

Oh yeah the pedal









not homemade at all

 

[David Ham]

I got some ideas from this website to make a muffler, I have got some steel wool at the moment but I might use something finer if I find it.
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArtic...o-Make-your-Own-Effective-Exhaust-System.aspx

the throttle setup at the moment

engine mount is slotted and rubber mounts removed, just testing it out

 

[David Ham]

the throttle setup is fully complete!
and I worked a little bit more on the exhaust

 

[chancer]

Dang that is a lot of holes to drill!