2016 - Beer Crate Racer (winner)

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chancer

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Got a little done on this today.
I was at a big race shop that closed down this week and came upon some pre bent 1" tube. So I built a header and made a copper exhaust tip. This is just on my mock up clone engine I have not purchased my Clone yet. Check it out:
 

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chancer

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I ordered my 60363 Predator today! Gotta love being in Texas. In Ca I was not able to purchase the Hemi Predator due to Hippies and some sort of save the planet BS! God Bless Texas!

So anyway I had plans to "GAB" this engine with Desertduler Brett, but he has moved on to other endeavors not to include this forum. I have spoken with him and he is a good and respectful man, and has wished me luck with this project. I hold no ill will toward him and ask all other members to respect his decision.:thumbsup:

So I will remove the governor from this engine, Add a High flow intake and rejet per spark plug readings. The exhaust I built yesterday will also go on the Hemi. I can assume the 6.5 HP will increase to between 8 and 10. This is all hearsay from my experience on the forum and I will not have a dyno to check.
 

chancer

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FYI I used Coupon code "65316219" (expires 6-31-2016) 99 bucks plus tax and shipping.
Speaking of Shipping Amazing how HF can ship a 30lb engine for $6.99 while BMI:2guns: wants 8.99 for a kill switch!
 

Poboy kartman

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FYI I used Coupon code "65316219" (expires 6-31-2016) 99 bucks plus tax and shipping.
Speaking of Shipping Amazing how HF can ship a 30lb engine for $6.99 while BMI:2guns: wants 8.99 for a kill switch!

Yeah...buying directly from China is even more mind blowing....but it takes awhile to get stuff.
 

itsid

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LOOOOVE the copper exhaust pipe...
as soon as that's blackened up a bit (inside of course) it'd be awesome! :thumbsup:

'sid
 

chancer

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Thanks
I am used to Soft copper that we use for refrigeration at work. That piece was water copper pipe much HARDER. I was surprised how much heat was needed to get it to flare. Plus I did not have a good wedge or taper to hammer into it.
Who knows I may make another ;)
 

itsid

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Thanks
I am used to Soft copper that we use for refrigeration at work. That piece was water copper pipe much HARDER. I was surprised how much heat was needed to get it to flare. Plus I did not have a good wedge or taper to hammer into it.
Who knows I may make another ;)

Why? it's not 'perfect' in the shiny and straight sense of perfect... true;
but it matches the hammered copper really nicely IMHO.. so in that regard it IS perfect I'd say.

'sid
 

chancer

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Funny you mentioned that. That is exactly what I had typed and then changed it. So yeah it matches the hammered.
It was just not what I pictured in my mind originally. I am used to a Flaring tool like for aluminum brake lines and that perfection is what I had pictured.
 

Jrgunn5150

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So I will remove the governor from this engine, Add a High flow intake and rejet per spark plug readings. The exhaust I built yesterday will also go on the Hemi. I can assume the 6.5 HP will increase to between 8 and 10. This is all hearsay from my experience on the forum and I will not have a dyno to check.

I honestly think that is the sweet spot between stock and GAB. As far as bang for the buck, I really feel that's it with this engine.
 

chancer

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I honestly think that is the sweet spot between stock and GAB. As far as bang for the buck, I really feel that's it with this engine.

I agree. Unless you need a hobby or like the plan I had with Brett... just to show off and a good "HOW TO" This is perfect
 

chancer

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Waiting Waiting waiting....:toetap05::toetap05:
Fed-ex Will be delivering my HEMI today. :wai: Perfect for the 3 day weekend! Tracking says "On local Vehicle for Delivery"
 

chancer

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I put this on a shipping scale (cause it was there) then removed the intake, Exhaust and Tank.
Shed 7 lbs or 20%
I am now disconnecting and removing the Govnernor. Its a Libertarian thing! More pics to follow.
I will use the instruction From AGK:
https://www.affordablegokarts.com/govenor-removal.php since I do not want to try and sound like a genius, I have done this 2 times before. Once on a Briggs OHV and the other Clone was already broke due to Bypassing only.
 

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Poboy kartman

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Meh....just bypass it....it's what all those temporary members do after we tell them not to.....(then they mysteriously disappear because they're too embarrassed to admit we were right!)

Besides, a man can't have too many $100 paperweights, right?
 

chancer

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While inside the engine to remove the Gov. I will also remove the low oil sensor. I will have it externally disconnected anyway and why leave plastic parts in the oil pan. Plus if you were "GAB" You can gain a tiny bit of oil capacity!

There are Bolts holding it on inside, and 1 nut to remove outside (no pic)
Remove the bolts and I cut the wire.
Cutting the wire inside made it easier to spin the factory bolt 90° otherwise it hits the crank.
I filled the hole with a 3/8" x 1" bolt.
There is an o ring on the factory bolt I removed it and put it on my bolt to prevent an oil leak.
Then just put a nut on the new bolt (nylock cause I had it) on the outside.
 

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chancer

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Thanks Nick.

Ok so in the process of removing these inner parts. I found it necessary to rotate the Crank to gain clearance to the parts. When I was almost done the crank would no longer rotate to get out of the way.
I seems to be stuck.
I did NOT remove the Cam so lifters or pushrods did not fall out.
What should I check?
 

Poboy kartman

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Take the spark plug out.

Actually, what it could be...(actually...IDK)... but the crank and cam DO rely on TWO pivot points to stay properly aligned...not COMPLETELY out of the realm of possibilities, that they are just cocked slightly and jamming.

Oh...and don't forget...you're going to hit a point you need to compress those valve springs...it's not gonna spin easily then....
 
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