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Did you do any math when you set the neck angle? rake and trail and such? This is the only build here that i have found so far where someone built a frame rather than use a manufactured frame.

I'd like to know more about the rear wheel setup. I'm thinking of a mini build with a wide tire like that, but i'm not sure what I'm going to do to to spin the rear. Probably gokart style axle bearings, custom wheel hub, and a sprocket hub.

Turn it into a boat.

I'm going to vote for a turbo diesel kart. I bet you could gear it right and get some good speed.

Yeah I just watched that one the other day, it started off leaving skid marks in their driveway, and ended up pulling wheelies. I was thinking about putting one in my garden tractor to replace the tired 10hp, but I need a PTO on both the front and back if I am going to be able to mow. I might...

I rebuilt a kart a few years ago ("Pile o' crap" link in my sig, pics start at post 16) and it is long enough for me at 5'10" to sit comfortably on, but with most of the weight in the back and a solid axle it has horrible understeer. My BKS Grasshopper (The other link in my sig) is shorter...

Does anyone have a vtwin predator? I think I can get one for about $500, but I need some measurements before I pull the trigger on it. I want to put it in my garden tractor.

I would try to hit 30°, then you can bring the wheel back by putting the axle in front of the forks, or a new triple tree with more offset.

That's exactly my setup! I'm still waiting on my piston, it's been a week. I think I'm going to stud the head and sidecover while I'm at it. ---------- Post added at 10:29 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:45 AM ---------- I emailed and here is the response.

I should specify air pressure in the wheels.

If you remove the bolts that hold the wheel halves together, a little bit of pressure could cause the halves to suddenly split.

If that was the case, then the inner would disengage when you let off the throttle. Once it's up to speed and engaged, it won't disengage until both axle and engine slow, and since you aren't trying to slow, it won't disengage from the engine. It would be a big parasitic drag and possibly...

I was going to say you'd need a manual clutch on the low speed motor, the centrifugal clutch will stay engaged and the low speed motor with just rob power and slow your top end. I can think of a couple ways to build a rope release, I wonder what you have in mind?

then you'd probably want to sty with the torque converter if you are climbing hills. AS far as the engine blowing up, that comes from higher RPMs, which without the governor will be limited by the valve springs. Others have said that if you leave your stock valve springs in you will be fine.

For that kart, I would remove the pedals and crank, mount some footpegs, then mount some batteries in front of the footpads and an electric motor on top or under the front axle. Chain drive it to the rear. I think it would be easier to package, easier to make a slow kart out of (for kids) and...

I see what you did there...:funnypost:

What is shipping going to cost?

It could have been just a riding mower, it was a long time ago and he didn't have it long because his dad parked it out behind the garage and someone came down the alley and took it. ---------- Post added at 03:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:49 AM ---------- Yeah the basic idea...

I can take pics of a stock predator linkage

I quit using Sta-bil. Gas isn't going to gum up or varnish over winter. I've never had issues parking my motorcycles for six months or so over the winter. Either drain the gas and run the dry, or fill the tank to the brim to keep out moisture and prevent rust.