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Hello and welcome... Remove the zip asap.. unless you want a con-rod to the jewels..... And also ditch the valve springs and keep the stock, as you have a stock con-rod, that would be a weakest link for a rapid disaster dissection recipe... So stock rod, stock springs. New springs, new...

Dog leg the seat post to fit the setup...

Post a pic of the throttle setup...

Hello and welcome... When you put everything back together.. you put it back the exact same way?... On the insulator plate next to the engine, there is one gasket that needs to positioned the right way or it blocks the passage for air.. A way of testing if there is an air leak, is try some...

It look like he's going to have to scrap the whole rear end, cause he welded the sprocket on....

Its all Chinese.. including the princess motor.. I know I had one... Oh... Pics...

Hello and welcome.... Kinda a tall order.... First.. a vert engines arent really meant to be run in the horizontal position. albeit a few have converted to work for the horizontal position... most give up... A "cheap transmission" doesnt exist for karts, mainly cause a gear shifting with...

For the most part.. the effort to convert to a 4 stroke isnt really worth the effort... The rear end need to be converted to accept a common chain size, so Axle, tires, sprockets, hubs for tires/sprockets ect.... Then the engine needs to be fitted, in a really tiny space..... The best bet...

Hello and welcome... Its kinda a question of what do you want, a clutch or TC setup on the driveline?.... Now without pics we cant really tell, but Im asuming the tires are fairly large ~15" OD?? So a TC is a better bet......

Pics of your throttle setup...

Off hand I think it is a dry graphite lubricant... Im not the greatest with the TC info... But I know it requires frequent maintenance..... I found this from a member here... http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7332 Some of the more seasoned people will chime in soon if more info is...

Its a manufacturing error... If you can I would run a tap through to clean up the threads... Youll have to check what thread it is first.

Take it all apart and clean and re-lubricate..... Make sure the engine is also not running away by itself, as in the throttle is being pulled or something like that..

Hello and welcome He is in the UK... so parts are going to be a bit expensive for him... And also its a 2 stroke( I just had to look this up, cause I had no clue what it was...) Off hand I found this place.. in the UK, Im not too sure if it helps...

Second pic... Little brass screw... Sometimes they might not have any, it'll be the banjo bolt for supply... Either way You'll have to crack that open a bit to bleed out the air...

Heres on pics... http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=737 A quick note to identifying a clutch chain type,typically 10t is #40/41, 12t is #35.

Hello and welcome... Sounds like a handfull.... Need some pics....

So this is for a street legal application?? If so do you need to have this in a particular CC class? if so then a motor of that displacement is where you should start... The minimal tooth count on a standard #35 chain clutch is a 12t, a #40/41 will have 10... A 420 clutch might not be...

A grinder with a cutting blade will do fine... Any welding machine will do.. MIG or fluxcore wire feed will will be just fine...

Nice setup... I've been really thinking to get into a bit of aluminum... I've got the forge, can put it on its side and just need a crucible... I can get one relatively cheap off of the Amazon... I remember alot of doing casting in high-school back in the day... Green sand and lost foam...