Recent content by VoodooChild

Got it, thanks. Gonna work the duraforce first, and try to get it mounted to a 70's motobecane moped, possibly with TAV 30 series. If that works out, i'll have to decide whats next. Has anyone figured out what the numbers after tillotson hl mean?

I think i remember hearing you say that only the duraforce had reed valves, and that's what made them have more horsepower. However i just got around to tearing down 2 of my 4.5 HP silver series lawn boys. And was surprised to find reed valves in both of them (havn't checked my third one yet)...

Depending on the shape of the fairing, and considering there very expensive. I'd recommend buying a cheap soldering iron (5 bucks) and an abs plastic elbow ($1.50 from lowes or home depot, it will be stamped abs on it, and usually black [not pvc]) Sand the paint off, tape over the crack so it...

because i want to put it on a minibike or an old moped frame i have, which only has one drive wheel :)

A crack in the cylinder wall could cause you to burn oil, foul plugs, etc.. And yes you would notice AFTER you rebuild the engine. Yes you are more likely to find a crack in a new clone, but like i said. Replacement warranty. Overheating any engine is NOT hard, its as simple as not filling it...

You can't "know" its going to run. Well at least not well, in fact to be really safe or for high horsepower you should have it sonic checked (especially if your doing your own boring/honing). Plus there's always the chance there's a tiny crack in the cylinder wall, which will take you forever to...

Don't kid your self, i have plenty of projects to maintain and repair. 2002 honda 919, 1973 dodge challenger, 4 high end bicycles, 1979 motobecane moped, 2 jet skis, 3 four wheelers, 2 dirt bikes, a sailboat, and I'm about to start on board track replica. I'm all about them toys, but like i...

After working in a small engine shop, and having to fix people severely neglected, destroyed pieces of trash. I prefer to not even waste my time opening up somebody's random junk engine. (unless of course its rare, or i have a special vested interest). If your gonna do it right, your gonna have...

I think you are correct on that. Is the the backing plate that determines tav or tav2?

I recently picked up a 6.5 clone during the harbor freight sidewalk sale (wicked deal), and today happened to come across an old man with this torque converter. The price was right so i picked it up. Anyway I'm assuming its a TAV 30 asymmetrical (it has the grooved belt and pulleys on one side)...

Right right I follow now, must of had one too many of New Belgium's finest the other night.

Yep spot on, if you throw it in there and make a pass, you'll get exactly that. A crooked, angled keyway that's the wrong size. Strong materials like crankshafts, you want to take only about 20-30 thousands off at a time. And i'm not sure what you consider very much money, but the machine shop...

Is that the same as saying the depth into the crankshaft should be half of the width of the keway?

Ya i got one of them, $71 plus tax, and i put the 2 year replacement warrenty for 20 bucks. So around the original price ($89) and if it ever breaks, they pull a new one off the shelf

As long as you know its perfectly parallel to the cutting surface, which is part of the set up time. Then you have to touch off, and you can't just plunge the 3/16" bit all the way down in there, you do it in passes (less stress on tool, less heat etc.. etc..), and as you get closer and closer...