American Ethos (2025) Electrathon America Racer

Functional Artist

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My $0.02 is make the front wheel swivel also. The front end of a vehicle can dive for a number of different reasons, if you are in the process of trying to negotiate a turn and a stationary front wheel strikes the ground, you'll probably be looking at the event upside down.
Hey EZ,

The stationary front wheel "bothered" several folks
...& the EA rulebook says this:

2 CONFIGURATION
1. All vehicles must be three-wheeled (cycle-car or tricycle) or four wheeled.
Any configuration is allowed.
All wheels must be load bearing, and remain in contact with the ground at all times, even under hard cornering conditions.

&
That stationary front wheel wasn't "load bearing"
...or "remain in contact with the ground at all times"

So, I did some re-calculating
...re-worked the situation
...& came up with this: :thumbsup:
SAM_5411.JPG
Another view
SAM_5414.JPG
A view with the seat
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Another view with the seat
SAM_5423.JPG
I just had ta add another set of upper shock mounting brackets ;)
SAM_5406.JPG
* Extra Credit:
Can ya tell what other change(s) had to be made ta accommodate this re-configuration?
...& why? :unsure:
 

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* Extra Credit:
Can ya tell what other change(s) had to be made ta accommodate this re-configuration?
...& why? :unsure:
Motor air flow (cooling)
...& driver comfort :thumbsup:

In the original "set up" the motors were mounted just behind the seat
...& the "warmed" air (from the motor's) could flow thru 'em easily
...& then, exit out, the back, behind the driver
But
When I moved 'em forward
...the motors would be "aligned" with
...& the air (trying to) flow into the side of the seat

* With the unwanted side effect
...of "heating up" the driver
So
By reversing the Nacelles (side to side) I could "align" the motors
...with the "little pocket" under the driver's legs/knees
...& avoid the unwanted side effect of "heating up" the drivers seat ;)
 

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This re-configuration also, requires a "new" floorboard (without a front fender)
&
For this footwell/floorboard
...I think I can make a "plug" mold
...for fiberglassin'

This "way" we will have the "nice" side
...on top (or on the inside)
&
The "rough" side
...will be underneath the racer ;)

Makin' er outta some MDF (this WAS the piece that I used to widen the work bench)
...& some scrap wood from makin' the (1st) floorboard
SAM_5428.JPG
Front view
SAM_5430.JPG
Angled view
SAM_5429.JPG
* Because this is a "plug mold" it is upside down
...& that "flat front" is to bolt-up to the "nose" of the chassis :cheers2:
 

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Notice the "sides"
...of those "openings"
...in the front
...aren't the same

One side is straight
...& the other side has a bend or "kink" to it
...which kinda compliments...things a bit

My idea was to cover the area(s) with thick paper
SAM_5433.JPG
Another view
SAM_5432.JPG
Then use some spray foam to "fill in" "insied"
...the area(s) behind the paper
SAM_5434.JPG
But, it didn't "turn out" as planned
SAM_5435.JPG
After peeling the paper off
...I found that the foam didn't "fill in" the intended area(s) too good
...& there were some "big azz" gaps (technical term)
SAM_5436.JPG
Like really big
...way too big to "fill in" with body filler :ack2:
SAM_5442.JPG
So...yup
...I had ta use some spray foam
...as "body filler"
...under the actual "body filler" :smartass:
SAM_5444.JPG
 

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That expanding foam is remarkably useful stuff.
Hey Ez,

Yup, I agree
...& now, I'ma findin' more ways ta put 'er ta use :thumbsup:

A while back (when I was researchin' on fiberglassin' & form makin' for the Diamonite monocoque)
...I learned about (watched some videos)
...a DIY foam cutter
...made outta some Nichrome wire
...& "powered" by a 12V battery

So, I got some Nichrome wire
...& made me a "bow style" DIY foam cutter

My thinkin' was that it could be handheld, for "custom work"
...&/or mounted to a table top, for a "standing unit"
...ta be able to make nice-n-square cuts (or angled) :sifone:

DIY Foam Cutter
* Notice, I did a little bit of "practice cutting" on a piece of 1" foam (purple)
...& then, on a piece of this spray foam (to compare the effects)
** It cut 'em both about the same :)
SAM_5446.JPG
Tried 'er on the "plug mold"

I just "slid" it along the surface
...using the wood edges, on each side, as a "guide"

* I noticed that using a "slicing action"
...helped the wire, cut thru (melt thru) the foam better :cheers2:
SAM_5452.JPG
Cut thru 'er
...nice-n-clean
...like a "hot knife thru butter" :2guns:
SAM_5455.JPG
Came out lookin' like this
SAM_5457.JPG
Closer upper view
SAM_5459.JPG
Then, some sandin' (w/40 grit sandpaper)
...ta smooth off any loose or bumpy spots
SAM_5463 (1).JPG
&
Ta "create" a bit of a recess
...around the perimeter, of foam
&
A consistent "edge"
...ta help the body filler "get-a-good-grip" :bannana:
SAM_5467 (1).JPG
 

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And then what happened?
DENNY,
I missed you...my friend (manhug) :cheers2:

Well...then, I found this pile of bricks (new side project) :cool:

It's "what's left" of an old building that partially caught fire recently
...& then, the city "knocked" the rest down
...but, haven't hauled the rubble away...yet
SAM_5315.JPG
...& a bunch of 'em somehow/mysteriously got on my truck
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...& then, stacked neatly in my driveway
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I found/harvested (3) different types of bricks :thumbsup:

The (1) on the left is kinda decorative & was on the front facade of the building

The middle (1) is just a standard red/clay brick

I'ma thinkin' that the brick on the right is some kinda "fire brick" (like from the chimney)
...'cause they are really dense/heavy
...& most of 'em have a "blackened" side, that smells of smoke
SAM_5321.JPG
There were so many that "if" ya just looked around
...you could find mostly "clean" bricks (meaning they "broke away" without any mortar stuck to them)
&
As ya can "see"
...99% of the bricks that I got, were 99% clean :sifone:
SAM_5316 (1).JPG
 
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