Sequoia Electrathon Racer

[Denny]

Looks good!

 

[Grizzlymi]

Man, that's really coming together awesome! Looking forward to future progress.

 

[Functional Artist]

Man, that's really coming together awesome! Looking forward to future progress.

Hey Grizz,

Yup!, she's finally coming together, Thanks!

I aligned, drilled (SS= not easy-had ta use some spit-lube)
...& then, bolted (will use 12 of them 1/4" x 1/2" Round head Allen's) the floorboard in place

Then, marked 'er for trimming

I'm thinkin' about that front "area" as like a "crumple zone"
...or impact absorber
...that will "crumple up" (hopefully, in the event of a light ta medium crash) without damaging the chassis, steering linkage &/or front suspension

So, I only want the floorboard to extend a little bit past the front gussets/bolting points (which will also be used for securing the body panels)

In the rear, I'm thinkin' about curving the floorboard upwards
...ta help direct fresh-cool air into the motor
...& speed controller compartment (ta help keep 'em kool while racing)

After trimmin', I used a piece of 1" steel bar ta help install a curve, in the rear

Like this

Re-installed ta double-check the fitment

Up in front

...& back in the rear (under view)

 

[Master Hack]

(SS= not easy-had ta use some spit-lube)

Some flavors of 300 series stainless are a bi*ch to drill, others are easy. Cutting oil helps but an end mill works mo bedder.

 

[Functional Artist]

Safety (fire) Wall

I'm going to install a metal safety wall in between the motor/speed controller compartment & the driver

The idea is to help protect the driver in the event of a catastrophic motor failure (shrapnel)
...or electrical issues from motor/speed controller &/or connections
...&/or chain failure

This safety wall will be secured in place, at the top, by the seatbelt shoulder strap bolts

...& at the bottom, by the swing arm mount bolts

 

[Functional Artist]

Ima gonna mount the speed controller to the safety wall

...& was thinkin' that it would probably be best to put them connections "in a box"

Marked where we need ta put a hole
...ta be able ta insert the wires/connectors

Then, drilled a "pilot hole"

Then, used a "Step drill bit" ta drill a ~7/8" hole

Like this

Then, trimmed 'er up
...& rounded them corners a bit

 

[Functional Artist]

The speed controller, motor "power wires" connection block & signal wires connection box will all be mounted to the safety wall
...so, we gotta drill some holes

Tip1:
After marking, use a spring-loaded center punch

...to "make a dimple" that will help keep the drill bit "in place"
...& not "wondering around"

Tip 2:
After drilling a hole
...if there are any sharp burrs

Use a reamer ta "clean 'em up"

 

[Functional Artist]

After some smoothin', roundin' & clean up, I gave the safety wall a quick coat of paint
...ta make 'er look nice
...& ta "hide" the fact that it "was" an old sign

Hung for paintin'

Painted the stuff ya don't really see much first (the edges, holes & in all of the nooks-n-crannies)

Then, give all of the broad/flat surfaces a light coat

* The first "coat" isn't really an actual "coat"
...but, just a quick drying, light misting

Its purpose is mainly to just get some material (paint) on the surface
...so, the next coat(s) have something familiar (same stuff) & grippy (semi-wet paint) to stick to

* Somehow I didn't take any pics of the "finished product"
...so, "more to come"!

 

[Functional Artist]

Safety wall, painted

I added a couple of more wiring "ports" to the connection box

...& started working on the wiring

All of the smaller wires/connectors (at the top) are for control & signal circuits (On/Off switch, Reverse switch, Throttle control etc.)

The thicker Red & Black wires (kinda in the middle) are the main power input wires (where ya connect the battery)

The 5-wire connector (I'm holding) is the for the motor's Hall sensors (rotor position signals)

The 3 thick wires (at the bottom) are the motors power wires (sends "power" to the motor)
...& they have their own thermally insulated, connector block (yellow)

So, most of the wires from the SC enter, the box, thru the side port (except the motors Hall sensor & power wires)
...& then, the wires will exit thru these bottom ports

...& go to thru a rubber gromet, in the safety wall, to their individual components

 

[Functional Artist]

Workin' on some of the wiring, like for instance, the PZEM-051 power meter

Red wire (not shown) will be for the Positive (+) connection/input for the battery pack (+)
...& to "power" the meter itself

Black wire is for the Negative (-) connection (-)

Green wire is for Battery Negative input (B-)

White wire is for the "power side" Negative input (P-)

All "Blowed up" for old timers eyes

The Shunt (sends info to the power meter)

Shunt with insulator/protective cover

Battery pack with protective cover

Dang it
...now, I ain't got any pics of the finished battery pack (with the XT-90 connector)

 

[Denny]

My ex-wife was a real shunt.

 

[Functional Artist]

Battery pack w/XT-90 connector & power meter connection(s)

Moving on to the "signal" circuits
I'm using some of this 22/4 wire (which is 4 individually insulated copper wires, in a common jacket) for the "signal" circuits & the power meter

I will use (3) 4-wire "harnesses" to connect the steering wheel(s) switches & meter

Ta help keep 'em "in order" I labeled 1,2 & 3
#1 will connect the On/Off switch & the Reverse switch (both use 2-wire switches)
#2 will connect tie 3-speed switch (requires 3 wires so, 1 wire won't be used)
#3 will connect the power meter (requires 4 wires)

Since the wire colors will "jump around" (or not match up) I'm making notes as to the wire color changes
Like this:

...& this

More notes

 

[Master Hack]

WTF? I'm lost now....

 

[Functional Artist]

WTF? I'm lost now....

Hey T,

It seems complicated
...but, it's really not

That's kinda why I "blabber" so much, about this stuff
...ta try-n-show the young'ns (& old'ens) it ain't that hard

Ya just gotta "break" everything down into (simpler) individual sections

Let's take (for example) the On/Off circuit:

Up in the c*ckpit on the dash (or in this case on the steering wheel) ya have a simple (2) pole switch (like a Toggle or Key switch)
...then, ya need a "harness" which (in this circuit) is (2) individual wires (1) to connect to each pole on the On/Off switch
...& then, that "harness" "runs" back to the "Electric Lock" plug on the speed controller

* Keep in mind that on (1) end of the "harness" you will need to install the appropriate terminals
...to be able to connect to the terminals on the On/Off switch
&
Then, on the other end, a "female" Molex connector
...to mate with/connect with the "male" Molex connector on the SC
Just do this "over & over" for each individual circuit

 

[Master Hack]

It seems complicated

Cuz it is!
I get it, its purdy much plug and play.
as long as all components are compatible, voltage and amperage bla bla bla.
l never was able to figure out the smoke release ratings. The smoke containment pressure release valve would open within a few minutes and leave me in a cloud of toxic smoke!

 

[Functional Artist]

Circuit Breaker
To help protect the entire electrical system we have & are gonna use a 150VDC 50A circuit breaker

Spec label

It will also have a pre-charge circuit/feature (momentary switch & big 10W 1Kj resistor)

Its purpose is to be able to pre-charge (slowly fill up with energy) the capacitators in the speed controller
...before the main power is turned on
...so, the capacitators in the SC don't have to "deal with" a huge inrush of energy (when the system is first energized)

Gonna have ta make a box ta mount everything into

Yup, more TV plastic

Had ta do some shapin'

...& some whittlin'

Next, I tested it with a 12V SLA battery (had ta make sure it worked)

With the CB in the "off" position
...& before engaging the pre-charge switch there is no power/voltage present

Push the button & the voltage slowly rises to full battery voltage

Then, when ya switch the CB "on"
...the capacitators are already "safely" filled up (or pre-charged)
...& we have the full power of the battery pack available

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

That's cool. It's alien-speak to me, but it's still cool.

 

[Functional Artist]

That's cool. It's alien-speak to me, but it's still cool.

Hey Ez,

Back in 2016, when I first joined DIYGK, I didn't even know how to use a multi-meter
...but, my buddy Sid helped me, tremendously, to gain an understanding of this stuff

I'm actually kinda surprised he "put up with my ignorance" as long as he did
...but, TBH I probably wouldn't know or understand 1/2 of the stuff, that I think I know, without him

He was a "beast" of an instructor

I miss him...a lot
...& hope he's doin' well

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

He was a fountain of knowledge, for certain. I'm just here for the wise cracks.

 

[Grizzlymi]

Hey Ez,

Back in 2016, when I first joined DIYGK, I didn't even know how to use a multi-meter
...but, my buddy Sid helped me, tremendously, to gain an understanding of this stuff

I'm actually kinda surprised he "put up with my ignorance" as long as he did
...but, TBH I probably wouldn't know or understand 1/2 of the stuff, that I think I know, without him

He was a "beast" of an instructor

I miss him...a lot
...& hope he's doin' well

What ever happened to Sid? He was a wealth of knowledge!!