I wished I could help, those extra gears are throwing me outta loop.
It surely seems like that fella could only use 6 gears for his set up.
He most likely had the wrong shifter for the sprocket count (huge issue for indexed shifters) because the more sprockets there are on a bicycle the shorter the throw it needs from the shifter to make the change.
The chains get narrower as well all the way up to 11 now.
So a 7speed in dexted shifter on 6 gears will skip violently between 4th and 5th
That's not an issue because my 6s shifter has a toggle setting that turns it from indexed to universal fit friction; meaning I could in theory pair to a 5 speed wheel or 11 speed without suffering indexting consequences
Idk why or which 6 gears, but I do remember he had it set so it wouldn't shift off the crank sprockets, it stayed on 1, but the rear he could shift.
That's because to run a jackshaft set up you need an FFW (front freewheel) crankset so the engine doesn't turn the pedals into a leg blender while using the engine to drive the rear wheel on the same chain line.
With a front freewheel like his, the engine power is jackshaft fed to the right side and down to the FFW which serves as the engine input and pedal power input to the rear wheel.
They can be front shifting by simply mounting a double or triple ring to the freewheel setup, but it's a nightmare not worth the trouble it tends to cause.
Try what you have, you can always change the t/c jackshaft sprocket. They are cheap enough.
Oh indeed, and a 9t would bring me a lot closer to the 6:1 prefered range but I don't trust the 8t, I've heard they tend to explode which isn't shocking considering how thin the bore wall is on a 9t compared to a 10.
I run 415 chain so a new gear being a 41 has to get some profile shaved off by being mounted outboard of the driven, given a hand spin and brought up to speed under the grinder. Done well it stays concentric as it gets knocked back. Redoing the chamfer at the teeth tips is hell on the grinding disks but whatever. Once profiled I torch it til its straw colored and toss it in a can of old oil til I'm ready for it.
I set my t/c' s up like a powerglide transmission, low and high only.
If it dont slam into high and pull thur it, I'll gear it til the poor turd motor is outta breath. If that don't do it......I get a bigger turd motor.
That's where I'm at with the 208, and I'm pretty damn sure it's belt stretch... It can pull a wheelie at launch, will run right up to 5800 if I flog it hard enough but the damn TC pulls it back down and holds it under 4500 max even flogging it.
Logically belt stretch would lead to wasted power, because it would take being able to consistently turn higher rims and be making power in that range to overcome the "extra" belt.
I can tell you this much, those 2.50-18 tires stick to the road like snail trails on Notel bed sheets so just playing around trying to do a burnout is useless without a little sand or gravel under it. I did accidentally dig a rut in some gravel last time I was riding because I throttled up an incline a bit harder than I should have for being so near a dead stop off a 150° left turn
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