Polaris

[Functional Artist]

I did some eyecrometer measurements, for installing a chain passage, thru the fender
...did some markin'
...& then, kinda split 'er down the middle

Used a straight edge, ta help bend 'er, where I wanted 'er bent
...& a flat head screwdriver to pry up the piece

Folded 'em back
...& hammered 'em down nice-n-flat

Looks like this on the outside

Next, I made up a chain
...& routed 'er thru the passageway

Um...we got some clearance issues, there Clarance!

A bit more cuttin'

...& a clampin & bendin'

Lets, try this again

Yup, that looks better

 

[Functional Artist]

We gots us a black racing style seat (the red seat was temporarily borrowed from the Hell-raiser kart)

I added a 2" x 18g steel support, around the upper back portion of the seat

Made up & installed a couple of upper seat mounting brackets (also, where the shoulder straps will mount, for the seatbelt harness)

Looks kinda like this
Another pic

 

[Functional Artist]

I got (2) mechanical brake calipers (probably not supposed ta be on the same rotor)
...& (2) 180mm rotors

Should be set up more like this

Run a brake cable thru the fixture (by my thumb)
...& then, connect the inner cable, to the end of the lever (by my finger)

So, when the brake lever/pedal is actuated
...it pulls the cable
...which then, pulls the lever on the caliper
...& the brake pads clamp down on the rotor

So, now we just gotta get the rotors, installed on the wheels
...& design
...& then, make some spindles, with caliper brackets

 

[Functional Artist]

We have Boss Tubes on the chassis
...so, the spindle brackets are basically big C's
...with a long bolt stickin' out

Started off with some CAD work

With the rotor
...& tryin' ta incorporate the steering arm

Spindle (1/2" x 6" bolt)

 

[Functional Artist]

Transferred the CAD template to some 3/16" thick steel

Trimmed out & mounted the caliper first
...then, worked on centering the rotor


Then, used the first one, ta make another

Kinda like this

* The extra space on the top(s) is for when the Acermann angle, is established

** Now, just gotta figure out how ta add some nice bends, ta these thick azz things

 

[Master Hack]

Love the CAD design work!

Where did you score the brakes?

 

[Functional Artist]

Love the CAD design work!

Where did you score the brakes?

Thanks,

CAD comes in real handy
...it's easy to work with
...& very cost effective

The version that I ended up using was like the 3rd iteration

Here is an earlier version

* Notice the caliper is upside down?
...& so, the brake cable would come up, from the bottom (not a great plan)


Rotors (~$9.00 ea.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175716099348?var=475102205451
Calipers (~$12.50 ea.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275959525534
Brake Rotor Flange adapters (~$2.50 ea.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/194966693368

So, ~$50.00 in brake components

 

[Master Hack]

I can see several unintended uses for that brake stuff.

Yer a Purdy resourceful guy, maybe you can figure a way to put this to use??

You are being redirected...

 

[Master Hack]

** Now, just gotta figure out how ta add some nice bends, ta these thick azz things

Got a hydraulic press?

 

[Functional Artist]

I can see several unintended uses for that brake stuff.

Yer a Purdy resourceful guy, maybe you can figure a way to put this to use??

You are being redirected...

Um...a bolt circle calculator

Well, that's interesting, now that you mention it, I got the rotor adapter flanges
...but, they didn't have the same size bolt circle, as the rotors

After more research, I found out that they make bicycle brake components with a 44mm bolt circle & also, 48mm

So, it looks like I bought rotors with the 44mm BC

...but, the adapters are for a 48mm BC (confirmed by the packaging label)

On a brighter side, now I know for sure that these adapters
...thread onto the same threaded hub, on the rear wheel, that the freewheel unit does.

Like this

Once I get the proper adapters, it'll look about like this

 

[Master Hack]

Looks like you are using the calibrated eye method of measuring hole to hole distance. l don’t want to sound too basic, but if you don’t know the compound method, read about it here. Scroll down a little.

https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/instructions/usingcalipers.pdf

 

[Functional Artist]

Looks like you are using the calibrated eye method of measuring hole to hole distance. l don’t want to sound too basic, but if you don’t know the compound method, read about it here. Scroll down a little.

https://littlemachineshop.com/images/gallery/instructions/usingcalipers.pdf

Thanks,
I've never heard of or used the compound method
...but, I'm always interested in learning new stuff!

I just manually set the caliper to 44mm & then, 48mm
...to roughly confirm (at that point I already knew)
...& for illustration purposes (pics)

 

[Functional Artist]

We gots our bearing order

They look really nice & of high quality

Thanks (Terry) Master Hack

Info card

We got (4) R8RS bearings, for the front wheels (~5/16" thick)

(2) 1616RS for the rear wheel (~3/8" thick)

An assortment of shim materials (.010 thru .030) as the bicycle bearing holders are a bastard size

...& some secret sauce (bearing lube)

Hey Terry, can you tell us more about this lube?
&
I found a spot for this guy
...but, how long do I need actually ta keep it?

 

[Master Hack]

can you tell us more about this lube?

That oil contains tungsten disulfide (WS2) after it sets for a while you'll see it settle out. Shake well B4 using. Lift up one of the seals on the bearings and relube couple times a year. You would be surprised as to how little lube it takes to make a bearing happy. 98% of the bearings on this planet are over lubed. Boat trailers are the worst.

Here's the propaganda on WS2:

TUNGSTEN DISULFIDE (WS2) POWDER​

Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) is dry/solid lubricant powder and is one of the most lubricious substances in the world. WS2 offers excellent dry lubricity (COF: 0.03) unmatched to any other substance, including Graphite or Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2).

Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) can also be used in high temperature and high pressure applications. It offers temperature resistance from -450 deg F (-270º C) to 1200 deg F (650º C) in normal atmosphere and from -305 deg F (-188º C) to 2400º F (1316º C) in vacuum. Load bearing ability of coated film is extremely high at 300,000 psi.

Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) can also be used instead of Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2). See comparison of WS2 / MoS2

Since the powder offers one of the lowest Coefficient of Friction (Dynamic @ 0.03 & Static @ 0.07), the applications are unlimited and could be tried with every conceivable idea. .



You have to keep the paper for eternity. Small bearings have been thrown away still in the paper packing...

Find the shims that take up the extra space in the hub and then install with loctite red or the black bearing mounting stuff.

Another trick you can use is to remove the inboard seals. If the hub is solid and there is no way for contaminates to enter the bearing from the inboard side, the seal does not serve any purpose. Also DO NOT PRELOAD the bearings! The wheel should spin freely, for a substantial time, when spun by hand.

 

[Functional Artist]

Got a hydraulic press?

I gots an OYO press (that's a whole 'nuther story)

Ima thinkin' vise & a BFH
...& beat 'er into submission

Tried a "test piece" first
...not too bad, I guess

Then, bent up (1) of the spindle brackets
...& made sure it was pretty square

Then, bent up the other (1)

Mounted on the boss tube

Another view

 

[Functional Artist]

Also DO NOT PRELOAD the bearings!

Please tell us more (for the class)

Being a bearing "guy", you'll be able to explain it better than me

 

[Master Hack]

You're gonna be sorry you asked...

0901d1968065f1f4_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

Bottom line don't tighten the axle nut down on the inner race much more than finger tight, unless there is an accurate length spacer between the two bearings.

 

[Functional Artist]

Bottom line don't tighten the axle nut down on the inner race much more than finger tight, unless there is an accurate length spacer between the two bearings.

Also, don't "bridge" the inner & outer races with a washer or retaining nut

The inner race should be "locked" to/with the axle
...the outer race should be "locked" to/with the wheel

So, the (2) races need to stay independent from each other
...separated by & rolling on the ball bearings

See how a big washer can "bridge" the races
...thus locking them together
See how a small washer will only engage with the inner race

...& the inner spacer (if used) must only be in contact with the inner race too

 

[Master Hack]

Nice! You are now appointed DIYGK Director of Eductional Programs. By virtue of your clear and concise explainations. Always fun to follow along.

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is (1) of the hubs/bearing holders

With R8RS bearing inserted
*Notice the excess space around it?
That's not good

This is where the shim material comes in

I cut a piece, for each thickness of bearing

The shim material goes in between the bearing & hub
...but, (really) shouldn't have that little gap

I tried the .015 thickness stuff, first

It seemed to fill most of the space pretty good
...but, the bearing could still be lifted out pretty easily

I tried the .020 next (still kinda loose)
...& then, the .025 (nice-n-tight & felt more like a machine fit)

Hey Hack, you mentioned Loc-tite as a bearing "locker" for loose fitting bearings
...but, after doin' some research, I've found that they have many, many different variations (besides just red permanent or blue semi-permanent)
...& then, others for "locking" threads
...& they even mention that it can be used for "locking" rotors to shafts (just like you mentioned)

So, any advice on which one may best option, for this situation

Also, since it looks like I may have to bond the rotor/adapters to the hub threads
...do you think any of the Loc-tites be used in both situations, as a bearing to inner hub "locker" & also, a rotor to outer hub thread "locker"?