Slingshot

[Functional Artist]

I bent a couple of pieces of pipe
...& welded 'em on

They are to represent the front fenders
...& will help strengthen/brace the upper front, of the frame or "hood"

It took some effort to get 'em even
...but, I think, I got 'em pretty close

Next, I gotta clean up, all of these welds

 

[madprofessor]

The 56" wheelbase explains the short little coilover shock handling all of the rear suspension duties. Any long travel action in that length wheelbase would make the trike config go briefly unstable in a sudden long travel compression, change the turn radius in the midst of the turn, possibly lose some traction, etc.
I think you're going to have an easy driving vehicle with that scale you're building at, definitely be a fun vehicle for sure.

 

[Bansil]

Where are batteries going?

 

[Functional Artist]

Where are batteries going?

In a "stow-n-go" compartment
...under the floor boards
...like in a Dodge Caravan

 

[Functional Artist]

I welded a "cross member" in between the rear mounts, for the A-frames

This will help brace the frame, in this "high stress" area
...& will also, establish the front edge of the battery box or tray

Now, lets talk batteries, for a minute

On many of my previous builds, with 48V systems, I've used (4) 12V 12AH SLA (sealed lead acid) batteries
They weigh ~8 lbs. ea. so, (4) of 'em weigh ~30 lbs.
...& are ~4" x 4" x 6" (so, (4) of 'em, in a row, are ~4" x 6" x 16" or if ya put 'em 2 x 2 their ~4" x 8" x 12")
...& I usually get 30 - 45 min "run time" draining ~345WH out of 'em

For the Slingshot. I'm gonna use (a) 48V 35AH Lithium battery pack
(It) weighs ~20 lbs.
...& is 3 1/2" x 7 1/2" x 11 1/4"
...& I've gotten ~3 hours of "run time", while draining a "whopping" 1,350Wh, outta this thing

I've only used/cycled this battery (3) times so, far
...notice where I've been keeping track, with "hash marks" (pic #4) for each time that I've charged it

So, besides this Lithium battery pack being smaller
...& ~30% lighter
...& having "way more" energy (like 4 times more)
...it's also, a bit "hotter" too

* The (4) SLA's have a top charge of ~53.2V (13.3V ea.)
...where as this Lithium battery pack has a top charge of ~54.6V

The battery "tray will be right in front of the seat
...& 1/2 way "sunk" into the floor (kinda like in a stow-n-go" compartment)

 

[Functional Artist]

I fabricated & welded in some seat brackets

Here is how it'll look with the seat & battery pack "in place"

 

[Functional Artist]

I did a DAM (dumb azz move)

I set up the steering with the spindle arms, pointing toward the front
...& the pitman arm, pointing toward the rear.

Ya all, know why this is bad...right?

I also, made up a front bumper
...but, I'm not too sure about it
...we'll just have ta see if it "grows on me"

* It was ta kinda give 'er the look of a Slingshot
...& have a spot to mount, the bottom steering shaft/bushing

 

[Functional Artist]

If/when I change things around (everything ahead of the "axle" or everything behind it) so, it steers correctly
...the linkage gets in the way of the pedals
...& the "nose" was set up, for the pedals to bein a certain place

So, I've got an idea for/workin' on a Chain Drive Rack

* Me & Sid kinda discussed a chain drive steering set up, back when I was building the Lunar Rover kart

I guess this would be a smaller, straight line, version

 

[Functional Artist]

I started off with the (2) 1/8" pieces of steel (main frame)
...a piece of 3/8" tube (tie rod sleeve)
...a piece of 5/16" rod (inner tie rod)
...a top gear & a couple of couple of idler gears
...a piece of #25 chain
...& some misc. pieces, bushings & spacers

Well, everything was goin' good
...until, I welded the ends on to the inner tie rod, before inserting it into the "sleeve"

A quick fix
...but, another DAM

 

[madprofessor]

Thanks for the company. Thought I was all alone on having a chain-drive steering setup.

 

[Functional Artist]

Thanks for the company. Thought I was all alone on having a chain-drive steering setup.

Um...pics...or it didn't happen

Interesting

From the center, how much do ya, have ta turn your steering wheel, to achieve a full turn?

 

[madprofessor]

Not near enough steering wheel turn, F.A., my calculation bit me in the stupid. Put a 13-tooth #35 sprocket on the steering shaft and a 32-tooth on the pitman arm, but the geometry didn't translate straightforward, there was no 13:32 multiplication at the wheel. Probably have 220 degrees of wheel from lock to lock. The dual-position steering is different on the left-drive position though.
Using a 13-tooth for left-drive sprocket and a 36-tooth for the steering shaft that's permanently in the center-drive position. Pretty sure that 13:36 is going to make the left-drive be like power steering. Attaching pics of shaft/pitman setup, center-drive shaft/first U-joint setup, and prior whole shaft setup pieces on the bench.
The red quick-release hub at the U-joint isn't locked in, the shaft free-floats in/out with a 5/8" rod coupling welded on to compensate for screwing in/out of the steering shaft through its rigid rod coupling (it's all 3/4" allthread). Red hub close to wheel does function so wheel and shaft on that side of dash arch can be moved center/left. Blue hub on wheel functions also. All still not ground down or painted yet, but very close to finishing it.

 

[Functional Artist]

Not near enough steering wheel turn, F.A., my calculation bit me in the stupid. Put a 13-tooth #35 sprocket on the steering shaft and a 32-tooth on the pitman arm, but the geometry didn't translate straightforward, there was no 13:32 multiplication at the wheel. Probably have 220 degrees of wheel from lock to lock. The dual-position steering is different on the left-drive position though.
Using a 13-tooth for left-drive sprocket and a 36-tooth for the steering shaft that's permanently in the center-drive position. Pretty sure that 13:36 is going to make the left-drive be like power steering. Attaching pics of shaft/pitman setup, center-drive shaft/first U-joint setup, and prior whole shaft setup pieces on the bench.
The red quick-release hub at the U-joint isn't locked in, the shaft free-floats in/out with a 5/8" rod coupling welded on to compensate for screwing in/out of the steering shaft through its rigid rod coupling (it's all 3/4" allthread). Red hub close to wheel does function so wheel and shaft on that side of dash arch can be moved center/left. Blue hub on wheel functions also. All still not ground down or painted yet, but very close to finishing it.

Looks kool!
...thanks for sharing

Mine seems to need~3/4 of a revolution, to make a full turn, in either direction

Here is a pic of kinda how the "internals" are gonna be set up

I had ta make/use a couple of separate "upper steering shaft brackets"
...to allow for chain adjustment

 

[Functional Artist]

Here is (I believe) the "final version"

I bench tested it several (dozen) times
...& it seems to function pretty well

It wasn't "super smooth" (technical term)
...but, "pretty good" (another technical term)

So, I took 'er all apart (again)
...& added/installed a couple of "wear pads"
...one, just inside, of each side

It's just some kinda thick, semi-ridged, clear plastic
...but, it should help the chain slide along
...& also, help contain the lubricant

I also, put a piece of "wear pad" in side of the tube (or "sleeved it")
...should help 'er slide nice-n-smooth

 

[madprofessor]

What kind of lube will you put in there with the plastic? Wondering about it because some petroleum based lubes can soften or penetrate petroleum based products, asphalt for an obvious example. Wondering about that plastic.

 

[Functional Artist]

What kind of lube will you put in there with the plastic? Wondering about it because some petroleum based lubes can soften or penetrate petroleum based products, asphalt for an obvious example. Wondering about that plastic.

I'm not exactly sure what kinda plastic it is
...it was just the packaging for some Christmas ornaments

The lube is called PJ1 Blue Label Performance Vehicle Chain Lube
...the label says, it made with synthetic lubricant's
...so, I guess we'll have ta see

Now, I'm workin' on a mounting bracket

 

[Budget GoKart]

i think you need an identical rear swing arm but with a full live axle setup that kinda just plugs in and pins on.

 

[madprofessor]

Not that it's for sure a bad thing for your plastic sleeves to be softened, but that's what Blue Label will do. My thought is that for use as a skid surface that the chain rubs against a little bit (it's only steering, not a chain drive) you'd ideally want a hard pure nylon tube or a Teflon impregnated hard tube. That wouldn't require any lube, but would withstand some petroleum rubbing on it.
PJ1 is well known even to guys like me who don't race dirt anymore, because we like to keep up. Blue Label is petroleum based, and it penetrates into and softens up the O-rings on high end chains. Black Label ("Heavy Duty") has a petroleum base, but uses synthetic lubricants and doesn't soften up rubber and plastics.
Both are wrong for most dirt racing because they cling really well, and will therefore make a "chainsaw" full of dirt out of a new racing motorcycle chain. For street use only, in my OCD opinion. However, the Black Label should be great for your application.
Note: Can't remember the name, but I always used a chain lube made just for dirt bikes because it slings off, leaving the penetrated lube only. You're supposed to use that lube on the chain at the start of every ride, and I did. I've never folded the teeth on a sprocket or broken a link on a bike chain all the way up to my 650cc, mainly because my chains never got ground down by grit.

 

[Functional Artist]

i think you need an identical rear swing arm but with a full live axle setup that kinda just plugs in and pins on.

Ya got's me thinkin'
...maybe the Lunar Rover would benefit from a single, rear wheel set up, like this.

The articulating steering certainly should have less resistance
...with a narrower "track"
...plus, 50% less rolling resistance in that rear

 

[Functional Artist]

Not that it's for sure a bad thing for your plastic sleeves to be softened, but that's what Blue Label will do. My thought is that for use as a skid surface that the chain rubs against a little bit (it's only steering, not a chain drive) you'd ideally want a hard pure nylon tube or a Teflon impregnated hard tube. That wouldn't require any lube, but would withstand some petroleum rubbing on it.
PJ1 is well known even to guys like me who don't race dirt anymore, because we like to keep up. Blue Label is petroleum based, and it penetrates into and softens up the O-rings on high end chains. Black Label ("Heavy Duty") has a petroleum base, but uses synthetic lubricants and doesn't soften up rubber and plastics.
Both are wrong for most dirt racing because they cling really well, and will therefore make a "chainsaw" full of dirt out of a new racing motorcycle chain. For street use only, in my OCD opinion. However, the Black Label should be great for your application.
Note: Can't remember the name, but I always used a chain lube made just for dirt bikes because it slings off, leaving the penetrated lube only. You're supposed to use that lube on the chain at the start of every ride, and I did. I've never folded the teeth on a sprocket or broken a link on a bike chain all the way up to my 650cc, mainly because my chains never got ground down by grit.

Um...OK

Their just some wear pads, ta help keep the chain, from "rubbin" on the housing
...& some "lube" on the chain & gears ta, well...lubricate it

Did I ever tell ya the story, about the man who took all of his clothes off & sat on a cactus?
...he said, "it seemed like a good idea, at the time"

So again, I guess we'll just have ta see, how it goes
...let's call it an experiment