Slingshot

Functional Artist

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What are the secrets for painting hard-abrased components like sprockets? Since you're doing it, it seems likely you may know something more about it than myself. What kind of prep work and materials and tools for it? What kind of primer like self-etching or flat high-temp? What kind of color coat? What kind of clear coat if any? Any sanding between coats of any of the materials?
Planning for some direct contact of metals on an unrelated project, don't want to immediately redo it for appearance's sake. Nothing I can do to defeat the intelligent morons who always eventually find a way to undo my good work for their own supposed benefit, just have to deal with it and make the work as hardy as possible.
Well, the 60T sprocket was new (from Surplus Center)
35 PITCH ANSI ROLLER CHAIN SPROCKET ($32.15)
Brand new. ANSI standard 35 pitch roller chain sprocket. Bored to size. One-piece carbon steel forged construction with hardened teeth and black oxide finish. Two set screws. Set screws are located directly over the keyway and 90° from keyway. Keyway is on center line of tooth.

As such, not much prep work was required.
...so, I just gave 'er a good scuffin' with a piece of Scotch-brite (med)
...then, hung 'er up
...& wiped 'er down with a rag soaked with plain old Rubbing Alcohol (to collect any dust & as a cleaner/de-greaser too)

Let 'er dry for a few minutes
...& give 'er a light coat (mainly getting the edges & any "nooks & crannies"
...then, after a few minutes, give 'er a nice/heavier "gloss coat"

For this sprocket, I used some Appliance Epoxy spray paint (from Walmart) which didn't recommend primer
...it's supposed to give a "hard coat" for heavily used appliances
...so, we'll seeeeeeee how well it hold up on sprockets :thumbsup:
SAM_4325.JPG

As for long term use, heavy duty paint for like truck frames, hand rails, garden trellises (also, go kart rims, motor mounts & sprockets) I like Rustoleum Oil Based, brush on paint

It coats really good
...levels nicely (if applied in cool temps, the brush "lines" fade away quickly)
...& (2) coats seem to give it a really durable thickness
...but, (there's always a but) it seems to take forever to totally dry/cure (like several days)

Once it's fully dry/cured it looks really nice
...& seems ta last forever :cheers2:
SAM_4267.JPG
 

madprofessor

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Thanks for info. The Scotch-Brite is a good idea, and I have several light versions of them. Gave away my white appliance paint (Home Depot) to the guy who took the nursery's old washer and dryer, so he could pretty them up at home, but I have other stuff like header paint.
The alcohol is a good idea also, but it gives me another idea. I have different spray and canned chemicals in my shop, and acetone is one of them. I really like that stuff because it evaporates fast and leaves no residue. I'll use my light duty scrubbers (pressing really hard) to give me the surface, and final clean it with my terry kitchen towels soaked in the acetone.
 

Functional Artist

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Well, I've done a few test rides & she still "zips" right along :thumbsup:

Remember, with the 72T driven sprocket (7.2:1) the top speed was ~16 MPH
...& now, with the 60T driven sprocket (6:1) our top speed is up to ~22 MPH

So, were talkin' a 5-6 MPH increase, with just a simple sprocket change
...& it still accelerates nicely (so, we didn't loose too much torque)
...& it doesn't seem to be over-working (technical term) or stressing the motor too much either ;)

Yup, I made a video :cheers2:
 

Functional Artist

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What are the secrets for painting hard-abrased components like sprockets? Since you're doing it, it seems likely you may know something more about it than myself. What kind of prep work and materials and tools for it? What kind of primer like self-etching or flat high-temp? What kind of color coat? What kind of clear coat if any? Any sanding between coats of any of the materials?
Planning for some direct contact of metals on an unrelated project, don't want to immediately redo it for appearance's sake. Nothing I can do to defeat the intelligent morons who always eventually find a way to undo my good work for their own supposed benefit, just have to deal with it and make the work as hardy as possible.
Hey MadPro, I've got several miles on the Slingshot, since the sprocket change
...& this Appliance Epoxy paint seems ta be holding up pretty well ;)

So, I took a pic for ya :cheers2:
...after wiping some of the chain oil off
...so, ya could see the sprocket/paint below
SAM_4346.JPG
 

Denny

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Kevin, if you go to Tractor supply or ACE hardware they make a urethane hardner that can be added to enamel oil based paints that makes it more durable and dry much quicker. Also increases hold out from sun fading and chalking. May have to add a little naphtha or acetone to thin it a little to reduce brush strokes. I always spray it, so not a problem. Harbor Fright $10.00 on sale spray gun works great for that. Just trying to help you with your lady karts. :lolgoku:
 

Functional Artist

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Stripes

I still never totally figured out the Cricut Design Space
...so, Ima just gonna try-n-cut these stripes, by-hand ;)

I used the 2nd version (with the 1" kick back) of, one of the orange stripes that I made up last summer, as a template
...& simply (used an X-acto knife & scissors) cut 'em out

Then, flipped that black stripe over
...& used it, as a template, to make an exact opposite stripe :cool:
SAM_4371.JPG
Since Ima doin' this by-hand, Ima gonna skip the "cut -out" name idea
...but, I think they'll still look kool :2guns:

I cleaned the hood really good
...used a wet rag to remove most of the dirt
...& then, a rag soaked with alcohol for a second clean & degreaser)

Then, used a couple of pieces of masking tape to aid in placement
...just cut the tape along the edge of the stripe
...& then, use them pieces of tape, to realign the stripe, after removing the backing
SAM_4374.JPG
Here is what it'll look like
SAM_4379.JPG
...both stripes
SAM_4380.JPG
Yea, I think they'll work :sifone:
...even without the cut-out name :cheers2:
 

Functional Artist

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Shaker Louvers

The stripes I cut, by hand, seemed to turn out pretty well
...so, Ima gonna try ta do the louvers on the shaker, by hand too

The idea that I sketched out last summer, seems ta be a bit too complicated (on the right)
...so, I simplified it a bit (on the left) ;)
SAM_4383.JPG
I drew out the "new" idea right on the back of a piece of the Matt Black Vinyl
...so, all I had ta do was, cut 'er out
SAM_4385.JPG
Next, I added a "top mask" to it
...& used the "alignment tape" concept ta help with placement
SAM_4390.JPG
Then, peeled 'er back ever so slowly (being extra careful as to NOT "lift" the vinyl too)
SAM_4391.JPG
Um...(Ima thinkin')
SAM_4397.JPG
Well, (Ima still thinkin')
SAM_4399.JPG
Whatta you'all think? :popcorn:
 

madprofessor

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Now it's looking like something! Recently drove past a factory unit parked outside a local motorsports shop. First real good look at one, thought of your build and how it needed to get a little more like finished product. You're getting there.
 

Functional Artist

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Ima thinkin' Ima kinda likin' them "graphics" :love:
...& ta me, the shaker louvers seem ta give 'er a 3D effect :sifone:

So, for the "final touch" I was thinkin' ta maybe try-n-do a hood ornament (kinda like on a real Slingshot)
SAM_4409.JPG
SAM_4411.JPG
So, I did some drawin' & cuttin'
SAM_4404.JPG
Then, some tapin' (top mask)
SAM_4406.JPG
Here it is held up to a light source
SAM_4407.JPG
I dunno why :unsure:
...but, I couldn't bring myself to put 'er on :huh:
Still thinkin' 'bout it :popcorn:
 

madprofessor

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Went by that shop again with the Slingshot outside yesterday, 45mph, but I'd swear it had gullwing doors opened up on both sides. Did I really see that? Is that the new thing for them?
 

Functional Artist

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I got the Slingshot out over the weekend
...& finished the seat
SAM_4613 (1).JPG
I made & upholstered the seat bottom last year
...but, never got around to, finishin' up the back

* I added "draw down channels"
...& ran wires thru 'em
SAM_4609.JPG
Then "tucked 'em thru the padding
SAM_4610.JPG
...& screwed 'em down, to the foundation board
SAM_4611.JPG
Then, just had ta "wrap 'er around
& staple 'er down
SAM_4612.JPG
Kinda made 'er 3D'ish (to match the bottom)
SAM_4615 (1).JPG
Now, I gotta let the top half "fade" a bit
...so, it matches the bottom 100% :thumbsup:
SAM_4617 (1).JPG
 
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