Predator Lighting Coil

[bob58o]

Ive been looking into your charging mod with the 10 amp flywheel and kohlers 3pole system stuck on my mind due to the 10 amp charging requirements for deep cycle batteries.

Just quickly I found charging requirements as 10% for flooded lead acid and 30% for AGM. I'm guessing 10 amps for a 30AH AGM battery??? Three amps should be good for a 30AH flooded lead acid, from what I read.

This looks to be a 15amp three phase rectifier/regulator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Re...&sd=122481580095&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1

And this looks to be a 15amp single phase rectifier/regulator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Re...122481580095?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

Here is the 10 amp OEM rectifier used with that flywheel and stator.
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/kohler/1740308s


I believe you would want to look at Kohler CH270 - 3032 for the 10amp. I was using Kohler CH270-3031 for the 3 amp.

 

[Made]

I'm also thinking ur right about that second fan shrould being the correct fit I sidebysided some pics of predator shroud and that one n the bolt pattern looks identical to me

 

[bob58o]

I'm also thinking ur right about that second fan shrould being the correct fit I sidebysided some pics of predator shroud and that one n the bolt pattern looks identical to me

They both with fit the Hemi predator block. The one I got fits the starter and block perfectly. Only issue is when mounting the keybox. Nowhere to put the bottom bolt.

It’s 10 bucks more. I still might end up buying it. Let me know if you find a cheaper one.

---------- Post added at 02:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:25 PM ----------

Taco-meter came. I make sure to order the ones with replaceable batteries. This one had NO battery. How will I know how many Tacos per minute?

Short, Sweet, and to the Point.
Starter Works!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDhkE1xHGrU&feature=youtu.be

 

[Made]

Nicely done charging aside i cant wait for electric start cause as a boat motor the trim and vibration can really flood and stall a motor so electric start is worth it alone but in regard to out discussion earlier about the deep cycle battery charging, my battery is a 92ah battery so the 10% would be 9.2amps correct? So my problem is figuring out what the output voltage from the regulator/rectifier would be because if it's not adjustable I could potentially be sending too much voltage to the battery, but I'm having trouble finding this information. Or perhaps these regs/recs don't work as I think by providing a steady stream of converted/stepped down voltage, and instead they simply convert/lower the voltage as dictated by engine speed?

 

[bob58o]

All of the ones I posted above are for lawnmowers - which use a 12V system and should output about 14.4 Volts.

Some voltage regulators have a Potentiometer so you can adjust the output Voltage.
We are now approaching the limit of my knowledge of Voltage regulators.

Product Description:

Brand new direct replacement voltage regulator rectifier
Reference Part Number: 2575503S 4140305 4140309 234279
For 15 AMP permanent magnet (PM) charging systems
12 Volt, Series Type, 14.4 Vset
Ceramic hybrid construction
Terminal ID: AC, B+, AC

 

[Made]

So in theory any 10 amp 12 volt rectifier will work? Granted it is wired properly.

 

[bob58o]

So in theory any 10 amp 12 volt rectifier will work? Granted it is wired properly.

If it is rectifier/regulated for a 12V charging system, then yes. Kind of. There are single phase rectifiers and three phase rectifiers. If the stator is 3 phase then it will have more than two wires coming from it. I am guessing the 3 pole stator is 3 phase.
You would need a three phase rectifier if so.

It needs to put out about 14 - 15 Volts.
If the actual output is 12.0 Volts, then NO. Look for V(set). It should say 14.4 usually.

A voltage Regulator that puts out 12V will power electronics that need 12Volts. 12V output will not charge a 12V battery the way it should. The output of the voltage regulator needs to be higher than the battery.

A fully charged battery will be around 12.6 Volts.
Go test your car battery.
Then turn the car on and test it again.
Should be 13.7 - 14.4 Volts.
The alternator output voltage needs to be higher than the battery voltage for it to charge.

If your battery starts at 12.6 Volts, then drops to 12.1 Volts... A 12.0 Voltage Regulator will not charge the battery.

If you are getting the Kohler flywheel and Kohler stator, I'd just get the Kohler rectifier/regulator that goes with it. Maybe even the wiring harness too.

https://www.partstree.com/parts/koh...er-at-3600-rpm-7hp-5-2kw/ignition-electrical/

THIS is the regulator that is used with the Kohler 10amp Flywheel/Stator
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ko.../361543926894?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1

 

[Made]

Now that's some fat I can chew, see I wouldnt have even thought about single and 3 phase. Now I do think that the 3 pole stator only has two wires so iguess it is single phase. I think the connector from the kohler rectifier has 4 prongs (one is probably a ground instead of using the base to ground when mounted) so if I went that route I'd almost certainly have to buy the harness or at very least the pigtail. I'm tryin to be cost efficient on my build only able to afford a few parts a week plus it just seems so much easier to just wire one in so i can route and mount things where i need em that's why I'm looking into alternative rectifiers. I've found a 3 wire b&s for like $15 on ebay its for 10-16amp systems and outputs 14.4 so I'm pretty tantalized by it. I'll cross that bridge when I come to it, thanks so much for all the help and awesome work on your build if I write up the 10 amp you will be receiving majority credit cause I'm basically following ur template with a slightly different parts list lol

 

[bob58o]

If you start your own thread you might get some better help. My threads are long and drawn out and if people aren't interested, there is no need for them to click and read. So some folks here might have better answers - who are no longer paying attention to this thread.

Lawn mower forums might be a good place to look.

I've been reading up on AC generators, but haven't got a solid understanding of everything yet. I've read lots of stuff, but haven't found that one site that makes everything clear.

 

[Made]

No joke lol I've been over a lot of the stuff uve provided me before you showed me but alot of it was hard to make heads or tails of so u posting is made for excellent reassurance and helped me bypass alot of further research so I get what ya mean about sifting thru all of this info it's hard to get bearing enough to figure out where to even start sometimes. Especially the further into electronic engineering I look. Was super awesome to finally see someone looking into this I've had my hemi in a box for a year, long story but after buying a non hemi I had to but a second one cause I lost the recite so i had it sitting around and I've looked into this matter before with little more info than the gx and clone flywheels don't work and I was lead to believe it impossible aside from risky mods, crank milling, or a complete shaft swap. So when I found this I was super excited, honestly this seems pretty straight forward and almost plug n play

 

[Made]

Ordered that shroud, so I'll let ya know how it fits when it comes in tho I lt may take a while coming from Canada

 

[bob58o]

Tomorrow, well - later today, I'll start the break in. It hasn't run for more than 15 minutes yet.

I don't know how to break in an engine. Many say drive it hard under load. Others say no load. Industrial Engines used for Industrial Purposes should probably be broken in at the governed RPM. I have ran all my engines with no load for initial break in.

I'll let her run for an hour.
It will be with no load and I'll just keep RPMs around 2500 with some light throttle flicking.
I'll drain and change the oil while hot.

Then I'll let the engine cool and repeat with a bit heavier throttle flicking and a higher max RPM.

Then let the engine cool again. Repeat with slightly heavier revving and even higher max RPM. Up to 3600 RPM. I'll open up the throttle can check the output voltage at the governed RPM.

Drain and change the oil while hot.
I change the oil after the first hour, and then after two more cycles. So after it has run 3 hours, it has had two oil changes.

Go back and recheck valve lash.
Re-torque head bolts.
Re-torque side-cover bolts.

Basically make sure nothing wiggled loose.
Then I'll call the break-in done. And can start planning modifications - which I suppose will be in a different thread.

Hemi Build Episode 3 "Return of the Torque"

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

You crack me up.
We rebuild the dragster engine. Once back in the car we run the engine maybe 3 or 4 minutes. No water so it gets hot quick. Shut it down. Check oil for metal. Maybe 3 more cycles of this. That's it. No changing of oil or retorquing. It's next runs are WOT down the track.
Never had any issues with a bad build or break-in.

We don't even change the oil between races unless it full of alcohol, but that usually means the rings have worn and a rebuild will soon follow.

Carry on.

 

[bob58o]

You crack me up.
We rebuild the dragster engine. Once back in the car we run the engine maybe 3 or 4 minutes. No water so it gets hot quick. Shut it down. Check oil for metal. Maybe 3 more cycles of this. That's it. No changing of oil or retorquing. It's next runs are WOT down the track.
Never had any issues with a bad build or break-in.

We don't even change the oil between races unless it full of alcohol, but that usually means the rings have worn and a rebuild will soon follow.

Carry on.

After the first hour. I will show you what the oil looks like.
Puts Metallic Fleck Paint to shame.

 

[Made]

How'd the break in go bob? Have u had a chance to run he for long? Charging system holding up good?

 

[bob58o]

I ran it today for almost an hour.
All the way up to the governed speed.
I was getting ~14.3 Volts DC at "full" speed.

I changed the oil. Not as bad as I expected. Some metal, but not as much as my more modified stuff. Possibly I just need to clean better before assembly on more modified stuff.

It was snowing and I didn't care to stay outside any longer. So still haven't finished breaking it in. I'll adjust the governor and test at some higher RPMs before I call this break in finished.

This starts like a dream compared to my minibike engine. First pull every time so far (granted it is kept inside a warm kitchen and not really COLD starting).
Still haven't figured out the jetting and starting procedure on the minibike. I try with choke on. Give it a few pulls. Try without choke. Try with choke and throttle,... no choke and throttle,... still not sure what works for me.

 

[bob58o]

If you do get one of those cheap tachometers with a replaceable battery...
It takes a CR2450.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Take this CR450 instead

 

[bob58o]

Take this CR450 instead

Lets race. Your Honda CR450 vs my Panasonic CR2450

 

[Made]

What size is the breaker in ur keybox housing bob? Also dI'd u ever figure out if it has an in line diode? Thinking ima have to replace breaker and diode for 10amp