Advanced Hemi 212cc Predator Build

[Poboy kartman]

Go with 18...the worst thing that can happen is they work loose...

 

[bob58o]

Almost forgot the EDIT: CAMshaft for real. LOLOLOL

---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ----------

Since that TC bushing got destroyed in like 20 minutes, I wonder if it will hold up better on the minibike. I like the 3D manual clutch, but didn't really get why Joe said it wouldn't work. He said it was on / off. Does that means no slipping/feathering the clutch. The site talks about being able to feather the clutch??? I have never driven a manual car, dirt bike, .... nothing with a manual clutch, so it is all new, but seems like fun. Says up to 20 HP.

The 1" model is in development.

 

[bob58o]

Go with 18...the worst thing that can happen is they work loose...

I read a "cool story bra" story about a guy who had the normal bolts and all of them backed out during a race. I'm pretty stupid so I might not immediately notice all of the oil has vanished???

---------- Post added at 12:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

I should have realized that the side cover gasket was wrong when the valve cover gasket was wrong.

Well I made the neatest Ultra Gray gasket I could.

Everything torqued to 200 in - lbs right now. ~17ft lbs. Once the gasket tacks up a bit, I'll finish up torquing it down.

My method is usually - finger tight right away. Doesn't work when I can't use my fingers.
Almost Torqued fully after 30 minutes. Fully torqued after 1 hr.

Red Thread Lock on the Studs.
Blue on the Nuts.

The thread locker accelerated the whole process for me to half an hour (ish)

 

[bob58o]

Torqued slowly and carefully to 24 ft lbs.
Need to cut the studs down.

 

[bob58o]

With the correctly timed camshaft.

 

[Jfive]

Ever use right stuff? It's a super good gasket maker if you never wanna take it apart. I have been using permatex high tach lately. Works really well for sealing closely machined pieces. It's good for metal to metal or on the gaskets too.

 

[bob58o]

Stay on the mower! Ain't nobody got time to be getting on and off.
Nobody riding shotgun.

How to not lose dibs on your favorite mower!

 

[chancer]

Well you are in Chitcago. Maybe he did not want it to get stolen at a red light.

 

[cavfire]

I read a "cool story bra" story about a guy who had the normal bolts and all of them backed out during a race. I'm pretty stupid so I might not immediately notice all of the oil has vanished???

Putting the motor through a couple heat cycles and re torquing is a good idea. Having crankshaft endplay too tight can cause them to back out also.

 

[bob58o]

Cut the studs and ground them flush with he nuts. Maybe still slightly (just a hair) too long?

Washers behind the TC plate? ( I like) and move axle sprocket???

Or Grind the ends of the nuts (nobody likes grinding nuts, right? Lol)???

---------- Post added at 06:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:59 PM ----------

Well you are in Chitcago. Maybe he did not want it to get stolen at a red light.

Two guys in the back, each on a mower.
One guy was fixing a little on while sitting on the big one.
The truck didn't even stop. Barely slowed and the two mowers backed down the trailer and jump on the expressway??

 

[rk970]

It runs.. anyhoo.. specks on the plug center indicates slight lean detonation. If it gets glaze/white then its a bit more, cracking of the center electrode the motor was about to pop.
https://youtu.be/0-HYPdh744M

 

[bob58o]

It runs.. anyhoo.. specks on the plug center indicates slight lean detonation. If it gets glaze/white then its a bit more, cracking of the center electrode the motor was about to pop.
https://youtu.be/0-HYPdh744M

Would you agree, sounds like the the bowl is emptying???

Suggestions besides opening the fuel return line, back to bigger jets, Gravity feeding the carb, or maybe a different pump? I can put a battery on and go electric.

Does this seem inline with what you would do?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I've looked into this before. Cool Stuff, pretty easy.

I'll send you the $10 if you make it.

---------- Post added at 08:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------



I'm guessing that trying to mod the float height on a carb where it is nonadjustable (I think), would only delay the problem. If at high RPM, the engine uses more fuel than the pump is providing, I could,,,,
1. Loosen gas cap
2. Close Return Line
3. Try Gravity
4. Bigger Pump

Does this plan of attack fall in line with what you would do?

Sorry, I've been out of town all weekend. Bigger lines and fitting's may also help. But I otherwise agree.

 

[bob58o]

Sorry, I've been out of town all weekend. Bigger lines and fitting's may also help. But I otherwise agree.

1/4 " is what I am using. I don't have a reducer. I hose clamped the 1/4" fuel injector line to the carb inlet. It was way loose, but seems sealed good with the clamp.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

But flow is reduced at your fittings, it's probably easier to pump more fuel that add more volume though.

 

[rk970]

In my experience (especially with outboard engines) when the fuel supply cannot keep up with the demand is that the engine will "bog" and start loosing rpm under WOT. If jetting is to lean it will pick up a little as you close the throttle. If it were me.. Go gravity feed and remove the drain plug from the float bowl and time how long it takes to fill a 1qt cup (16 oz will be fine also). With that you can calculate how much power your fuel system can support. For gravity feed systems I try to get 30% more fuel flow then estimated power.
So lets use 15hp.. and .45 BSFC (little on the rich side)
GPH = .45x15hp/5.92
GPH for 15hp is 1.14
Take 1.14 x 8 = 9.12 pints per hour or 6.58 minutes per 16oz flow.
add bout 30% and look for 20oz flow in that same 6min 35sec time.

Would you agree, sounds like the the bowl is emptying???

Suggestions besides opening the fuel return line, back to bigger jets, Gravity feeding the carb, or maybe a different pump? I can put a battery on and go electric.

Does this seem inline with what you would do?

 

[bob58o]

In my experience (especially with outboard engines) when the fuel supply cannot keep up with the demand is that the engine will "bog" and start loosing rpm under WOT. If jetting is to lean it will pick up a little as you close the throttle. If it were me.. Go gravity feed and remove the drain plug from the float bowl and time how long it takes to fill a 1qt cup (16 oz will be fine also). With that you can calculate how much power your fuel system can support. For gravity feed systems I try to get 30% more fuel flow then estimated power.
So lets use 15hp.. and .45 BSFC (little on the rich side)
GPH = .45x15hp/5.92
GPH for 15hp is 1.14
Take 1.14 x 8 = 9.12 pints per hour or 6.58 minutes per 16oz flow.
add bout 30% and look for 20oz flow in that same 6min 35sec time.

Thank You. I will try this today.
Maybe if the gravity rate isn't fast enough I can lift the tank to the back of the roll cage and see if the extra height improves rate?

---------- Post added at 08:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 AM ----------

So the 5/16 Grade 8 washers from HomeStore give the clearance (from the studs / nuts) I needed plus some. Before the plate was pivoting on the nut.

The crankshaft spacer still gives plenty of clearance between the heads on the backplate bolts and the engine side of the driver unit.

BUT the washers DO move the backplate, and hence the DrivEN Unit, in relation to the DrivER Unit. I will have to add another spacer (washer) to the crankshaft to compensate for the washers behind the backplate.

I will also have to move the sprocket over on the axle an equal amount.


3/4" crankshaft
Need a spacer.
3/4" washer ID = 26/32" (0.8125")
5/8" washer ID = 21/32" (0.65625")

3/4" = 24/32"


5/8" washer drilled with step drill bit to 3/4"?????

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

You ever tried to drill out a washer? Good times.

 

[bob58o]

You ever tried to drill out a washer? Good times.

Nope.

So the 3/4" washer then?

 

[Poboy kartman]

You can do it with a unibit and vice grips...but be prepared for a bit of a ride...strong grip , strong wrists, and common sense highly recommended.

Wait! !!. didn't you just buy some port n polishing stuff? Easy Peasy!