chancer
ɔ ɥ ɐ u ɔ ǝ ɹ
You do not have to cut it apart. Post a pic. i see that all the time here. and guys get good answers.
Advanced Hemi 212cc Predator Build
- Thread starter bob58o
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
ADDED:
Using 1/4 fuel line.
---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:41 PM ----------
OK I will post a pic of what it looks like, But this is the one I had been using with the 0.028" and the 0.042" before the the 0.026" and the 0.041"
Can these washers be reused?
They are a tapered compression washer or something IIRC.
I'm thinking not???
---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------
Then I'll put a new one in and try again. I'll kill it on my way toward to upward side of the hill by my house.
Using 1/4 fuel line.
---------- Post added at 03:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:41 PM ----------
OK I will post a pic of what it looks like, But this is the one I had been using with the 0.028" and the 0.042" before the the 0.026" and the 0.041"
Can these washers be reused?
They are a tapered compression washer or something IIRC.
I'm thinking not???
---------- Post added at 03:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:44 PM ----------
Then I'll put a new one in and try again. I'll kill it on my way toward to upward side of the hill by my house.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
With old and new jetting. Return line all the way open.
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Just the tip.
Dark on the outside, white in the middle.
Dark on the outside, white in the middle.
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Poboy kartman
Senior Moments Member
It's an Oreo....taste it!
EDIT: Sorry....I'm sure somebody spit something on their keyboard....
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I would say this plug says rich idle and lean WOT if it had been cut during a WOT run. It was not.
I am going to put a new plug in close the return line some and try again to kill it after a good WOT run.
I am going to put a new plug in close the return line some and try again to kill it after a good WOT run.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Here is the new plug.
0.026" idle
0.041" main
Return valve half turned.
Similar performance, but I got oil leaking.
Guess it is time to regasket and stud the side cover.
One.
0.026" idle
0.041" main
Return valve half turned.
Similar performance, but I got oil leaking.
Guess it is time to regasket and stud the side cover.
One.
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Two!
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Three
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Four
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
If you look at pic 3 closely, it looks like there are specs on the porcelain. That is bad right?
And this whole plug looks pretty lean, but I can't seem to hold WOT long enough and also get timing correct so that I don't have to push it for blocks after I kill it.
---------- Post added at 06:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
I was at 42 mph, which is 6000 rpm if no slipping.
---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------
AND the low end is there. There is no easing into it. When the clutch engages, the buggy jumps.
So I drained the oil. Again. Nasty Stuff. More flake than my Tuxedo Black Paint and almost as dark. This time to change the side cover gasket. May or may not be the source of the leak????????? Seems I saw a drip from the valve cover too.
What is next, go back up in Jet size. Start over with 0.028" and 0.042"???
---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/carbadj.htm
Tuning stuff
Crankcase leak stuff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuJqXF0Cr1M
---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
Bad Side Cover Seal?
Poor piston rings? BlowBy
Faulty breather (PCV) valve?
Time to remove the TC, Side Cover, Open it up, Inspect the internals, regasket, and stud.
Open up the valve cover, check the lash, check the PCV valve, and seal it up.
Take the flywheel off and check the timing key.
Once I'm happy with all of that I can get back to jetting I guess.
And this whole plug looks pretty lean, but I can't seem to hold WOT long enough and also get timing correct so that I don't have to push it for blocks after I kill it.
---------- Post added at 06:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:11 PM ----------
I was at 42 mph, which is 6000 rpm if no slipping.
---------- Post added at 06:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:18 PM ----------
AND the low end is there. There is no easing into it. When the clutch engages, the buggy jumps.
So I drained the oil. Again. Nasty Stuff. More flake than my Tuxedo Black Paint and almost as dark. This time to change the side cover gasket. May or may not be the source of the leak????????? Seems I saw a drip from the valve cover too.
What is next, go back up in Jet size. Start over with 0.028" and 0.042"???
---------- Post added at 06:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/carbadj.htm
Tuning stuff
Crankcase leak stuff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuJqXF0Cr1M
---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:59 PM ----------
Bad Side Cover Seal?
Poor piston rings? BlowBy
Faulty breather (PCV) valve?
Time to remove the TC, Side Cover, Open it up, Inspect the internals, regasket, and stud.
Open up the valve cover, check the lash, check the PCV valve, and seal it up.
Take the flywheel off and check the timing key.
Once I'm happy with all of that I can get back to jetting I guess.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
Check out those fingers. lol
Work called and said they PROBABLY don't need me. That is when I usually turn my phone off and tell them I PROBABLY couldn't afford to pay my bill!!!
Time to start taking stuff off again. My favorite thing to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eknrtJw3fSU
Work called and said they PROBABLY don't need me. That is when I usually turn my phone off and tell them I PROBABLY couldn't afford to pay my bill!!!
Time to start taking stuff off again. My favorite thing to do.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eknrtJw3fSU
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
#10 Report Post
Old 07-04-2016, 11:34 PM
Flyinhillbilly Flyinhillbilly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac123514 View Post
If you mean the breather tube from the ohv then it's to atmosphere. I did have a small filter on it bit if got plugged up with oil and blew off. I'm going to try a bigger filter
Thanks
Isaac
Fixed that for ya.
Old 07-04-2016, 11:34 PM
Flyinhillbilly Flyinhillbilly is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Bat Country
Posts: 205
Thanks: 74
Thanked 73 Times in 54 Posts
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac123514 View Post
If you mean the breather tube from the ohv then it's to atmosphere. I did have a small filter on it bit if got plugged up with oil and blew off. I'm going to try a bigger filter
Thanks
Isaac
Fixed that for ya.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
So Started taking the TC apart and found my first problem as soon as I got the cover off. The bronze bushing is broken. Split straight across. It was loose inside the TC cover, meaning it came off the shaft. I'm sure the the belt has taken some abuse. My phone is charging so I share blurry pics later.
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I'd like to say the beastly engine just laughed at it, but it was probably some alignment issue or a ???
Probably the sickly monster I built is too much for the 30 series?
I've still got two more backup bushings.
Ooohhhh. It's my turn to roll again. I'm playing "what else is broken?" It's fun.
Probably the sickly monster I built is too much for the 30 series?
I've still got two more backup bushings.
Ooohhhh. It's my turn to roll again. I'm playing "what else is broken?" It's fun.
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bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
TC Belt is 1/32" Less than the original 3/4".
Pretty sure the oil was coming from the dipstick plug under the TC. It was loose.
Too Tree hours later and I'm done picking gasket material off the block and side cover.
Pretty sure the oil was coming from the dipstick plug under the TC. It was loose.
Too Tree hours later and I'm done picking gasket material off the block and side cover.
Jrgunn5150
Rudderless
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Sounds like you're going lean at high rpm, like you are draining the float bowl.
Jfive
New member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141484...7290-0%26rvr_id%3D1059472932660&ul_noapp=true
Need one of these and a multi meter and a nut from a store and weld the nut on your exhaust near the engine. Connect multi meter using volts 1.0 rich and .1 being lean. Better than looking at plugs in my opinion. Now you'll know what at idle what at wot what at cruise. http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html
Need one of these and a multi meter and a nut from a store and weld the nut on your exhaust near the engine. Connect multi meter using volts 1.0 rich and .1 being lean. Better than looking at plugs in my opinion. Now you'll know what at idle what at wot what at cruise. http://www.scirocco.org/tech/misc/afgauge/af.html
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
I've looked into this before. Cool Stuff, pretty easy.
I'll send you the $10 if you make it.
---------- Post added at 08:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------
I'm guessing that trying to mod the float height on a carb where it is nonadjustable (I think), would only delay the problem. If at high RPM, the engine uses more fuel than the pump is providing, I could,,,,
1. Loosen gas cap
2. Close Return Line
3. Try Gravity
4. Bigger Pump
Does this plan of attack fall in line with what you would do?
bob58o
SuckSqueezeBangBlow
So the Dorman Exhaust Studs....
No Instructions...
Assuming the square part goes on the outside (for grabbing and turning).
The nuts only finger tighten about the 1/3". I assume the thread on these nuts are "special"???
Since they are not for this engine's side cover and they need to be tightened 2.5X what I can do finger tight, I am paused.
I can't find Torque specs for these.
---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 AM ----------
Says M8 25 ft lbs???
http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/156-5901.pdf
---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------
Class 10.9 metric M8 says 24ft lbs.
https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/diesel_engines/lecture/Metric torque values.pdf
Not sure what class/grade these are.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-274-03411.aspx?origin=keyword
I looked up the Ford torque specs that these are replacements for and found 18 ft lbs for the nuts and 9 ft lbs for the studs.
http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=11-5.4L-330ci-V8
No Instructions...
Assuming the square part goes on the outside (for grabbing and turning).
The nuts only finger tighten about the 1/3". I assume the thread on these nuts are "special"???
Since they are not for this engine's side cover and they need to be tightened 2.5X what I can do finger tight, I am paused.
I can't find Torque specs for these.
---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:56 AM ----------
Says M8 25 ft lbs???
http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/156-5901.pdf
---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------
Class 10.9 metric M8 says 24ft lbs.
https://www.swtc.edu/Ag_Power/diesel_engines/lecture/Metric torque values.pdf
Not sure what class/grade these are.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-274-03411.aspx?origin=keyword
I looked up the Ford torque specs that these are replacements for and found 18 ft lbs for the nuts and 9 ft lbs for the studs.
http://www.torkspec.com/torkspecme.aspx?KI=11-5.4L-330ci-V8
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