Viper Offroad with full suspension project log.
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xoltri
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Thanks for the advice. I have tested the suspension in it's current config and it works good. It is not too stiff, maybe that's because I weigh 220lbs. They are hydraulic shocks also, not sure if that makes a difference.
I may make a more modest version of your angle brace to strengthen the upper shock mount, maybe half as big as your diagram. This is 1/8" thick tube so it is pretty strong stuff.
However I don't believe moving the shocks outwards will make any difference. The frame is so stiff that it does not twist, the only direction of movement is what is allowed by the hinges which is up and down.
Thanks again!
I may make a more modest version of your angle brace to strengthen the upper shock mount, maybe half as big as your diagram. This is 1/8" thick tube so it is pretty strong stuff.
However I don't believe moving the shocks outwards will make any difference. The frame is so stiff that it does not twist, the only direction of movement is what is allowed by the hinges which is up and down.
Thanks again!
xoltri
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I purchased the engine today, it is a Briggs 7HP Intec 206. It is second hand, but is fairly new, and I ran it in the garage and it seems to run good.
I paid $175CAD which is about $140US. I don't know a lot about how the throttle from the pedal will link up with the engine so I hope it doesn't need a lot of modifications. Anybody have any input on this?
I paid $175CAD which is about $140US. I don't know a lot about how the throttle from the pedal will link up with the engine so I hope it doesn't need a lot of modifications. Anybody have any input on this?
BradenM
Etre Et Durer.
DIY ghetto style worked for me. Random stuff in shed and araldite.
xoltri
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So I have been struggling to get some tubing bent but I think that I've finally found a solution. I had called a few places but they wanted too much money ($15 per bend plus material). So I did some googling and found this video on youtube which is a great guide to getting good results with the cheap Harbor Freight 12 ton pipe bender. Harbor freight bender
Well, mine is from princess auto in Canada ($130CAD) but it is the same thing.
The real trick is to fill the tubing completely with sand which acts to support the tubing while it is being bent. This is all described in the video. However I was bending 1" OD tubing with it and the 3/4" pipe die was too large, so to support the tubing I used some canvas cloth folded up and placed neatly in the die. This filled in the gap perfectly and provided support for a clean bend. I also used my welding gloves on the rollers to stop them from denting the tubing. They allowed the tubing to slide nicely as it was being bent.
So here are the results. I got a nice 90 degree bend with this 1"OD .12 wall tubing. I did some measurements and at the apex of the bend it flattned to 0.9" OD, which I think is not bad. It is about a 3.5" CLR bend.
Well, mine is from princess auto in Canada ($130CAD) but it is the same thing.
The real trick is to fill the tubing completely with sand which acts to support the tubing while it is being bent. This is all described in the video. However I was bending 1" OD tubing with it and the 3/4" pipe die was too large, so to support the tubing I used some canvas cloth folded up and placed neatly in the die. This filled in the gap perfectly and provided support for a clean bend. I also used my welding gloves on the rollers to stop them from denting the tubing. They allowed the tubing to slide nicely as it was being bent.
So here are the results. I got a nice 90 degree bend with this 1"OD .12 wall tubing. I did some measurements and at the apex of the bend it flattned to 0.9" OD, which I think is not bad. It is about a 3.5" CLR bend.
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xoltri
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Today I finished the front porch and floor pan. I also bent the 3/4" .065 wall tubing for the front 'bumper' which also acts as the mount for the front suspension. The bending is going great, I'm happy with the results.
The upper tubing in the photograph is just tacked in for now, I want to make sure that everything lines up before it gets permanently welded.
The upper tubing in the photograph is just tacked in for now, I want to make sure that everything lines up before it gets permanently welded.
Raywelder
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I purchased the engine today, it is a Briggs 7HP Intec 206. It is second hand, but is fairly new, and I ran it in the garage and it seems to run good.
I paid $175CAD which is about $140US. I don't know a lot about how the throttle from the pedal will link up with the engine so I hope it doesn't need a lot of modifications. Anybody have any input on this?
Sometimes around the throttle lever, they have places where you can thread in cable mounts and stuff, On the honda I used, I just stole some cable and hardware off of a bicycle, and it just bolts right on. May be same for a briggs, but Im not sure.
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
Just add a cable to that handy throttle lever on the front.
xoltri
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I now have the front suspension tacked together and I'm pretty happy with the results. I'm anxious to get it welded together solid so I can jump on it a few times to see how it performs.
You can see in the photos I also welded jam nuts to the suspension arms and installed the ball ends. I had to re-tap some of the nuts after welding because the threads got contaminated.
I also purchased a seat used for $60CAD. It's fairly large so I will have to modify the steering uprights and roll bar but I think it will be worth it for the extra comfort. Plus the price was good.
You can see in the photos I also welded jam nuts to the suspension arms and installed the ball ends. I had to re-tap some of the nuts after welding because the threads got contaminated.
I also purchased a seat used for $60CAD. It's fairly large so I will have to modify the steering uprights and roll bar but I think it will be worth it for the extra comfort. Plus the price was good.
thgrahamjr
Love To Build!
Your cart looks great, can't wait to see the finished kart!
modelengineer
Lord of the noise
That looks like a great kart. Very good attention to detail.
However, I think you should mount your shocks in double-shear, rather than single-shear. MUCH stronger for just a bit more effort.
Here is a pic showing single-shear (first) and double-shear (second)
However, I think you should mount your shocks in double-shear, rather than single-shear. MUCH stronger for just a bit more effort.
Here is a pic showing single-shear (first) and double-shear (second)
I wouldn't worry about the double sheer (there is little weight there) but I'm a little concerned about the top shock mounting. The way it is now when the a arms arc up the top shock mount doesn't want to do that, it will bind. The top mount has to be turned 90 deg. and bolted to a tab.
theo
theo
xoltri
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I finished welding the frame together and I made a video of the suspension in action. I understand what you are saying Theo but I think it is working fine. The way that the shock compresses doesn't twist it at the top mount.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6asqGJFYKw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6asqGJFYKw
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