truck talk

[bighead]

When you put the new master cylinder in did you bench bleed it?

Was there any inline valves on your old brake lines?

I think my chevy has a reset valve of some sort. It's a aftermarket master cylinder though. Some plunger reset if I remember right.

 

[fowler]

check the brake light harnesss
maybe a broken wire
also it may be part of a differant circuit that has an issue

if the brakes are still squealing and they are new then something isnt right
let them bed in and it may spot

u would have to narrow down the other rattles and squeks

the one u rekons is only periodic
did u have the air con on?
could it be the compressor?

if the tail gate is loose
what i did may work for u
i got some of that foam sealing strips
it is 30mm wide 10mm deep, in a roll and comes with one sticky side
u can stick it to the truck body where the tail gate is touching
it dampens the vibration and stops the noise
i when from a speal and incredible rattle to no noise

 

[Bluethunder3320]

When you put the new master cylinder in did you bench bleed it?

Was there any inline valves on your old brake lines?

I think my chevy has a reset valve of some sort. It's a aftermarket master cylinder though. Some plunger reset if I remember right.

the previous owner installed it but never drove it. never had it registered.

what do you mean by inline valve? like a valve on the brake line?

check the brake light harnesss
maybe a broken wire
also it may be part of a differant circuit that has an issue

if the brakes are still squealing and they are new then something isnt right
let them bed in and it may spot

u would have to narrow down the other rattles and squeks

the one u rekons is only periodic
did u have the air con on?
could it be the compressor?

if the tail gate is loose
what i did may work for u
i got some of that foam sealing strips
it is 30mm wide 10mm deep, in a roll and comes with one sticky side
u can stick it to the truck body where the tail gate is touching
it dampens the vibration and stops the noise
i when from a speal and incredible rattle to no noise

the pads are original to the truck (i believe) but they still are pretty thick. maybe the drums got warped when we heated them up and hammered them off

truck has no A/C

great idea on the foam strips. there are some rubber bumpers from the factory but obviously they dont help now.

ill be driving like 2 hours tomorrow, picking up a YZ125. and cutting down some trees, moving the logs. so in the mean time ill have to jab some wooden wedge or something in there. the noise is just unbearable

 

[bighead]

the previous owner installed it but never drove it. never had it registered.

what do you mean by inline valve? like a valve on the brake line?



the pads are original to the truck (i believe) but they still are pretty thick. maybe the drums got warped when we heated them up and hammered them off

truck has no A/C

great idea on the foam strips. there are some rubber bumpers from the factory but obviously they dont help now.

ill be driving like 2 hours tomorrow, picking up a YZ125. and cutting down some trees, moving the logs. so in the mean time ill have to jab some wooden wedge or something in there. the noise is just unbearable

Yah like check valve or proportioning valve? or mettering valve what ever you call it.

Is there a proportioning valve by your master? Does it have a rubber reset or bleeder button?

Check this thread out of you have front disc.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=371304&sid=56b403e3ad5dc88ca0f5a065e25ac229

Also if you drained all the fluid out of the master. I have been tought you have to bench bleed it again. if you do not bench bleed it you will never get all the air out. You can do it in the truck you just need the $5 kit from Autozone and a buddy to pump the pedal.

 

[Bluethunder3320]

awesome! thanks. gonna look at that tomorrow.

 

[fowler]

the check valve and the proportioning valve are different things

the check valve is a basic check valve
and ensures u have residual line pressure
when u release the brake the pressure in the lines dose not drop to 0. It holds a little in the line so the slave pistons can keep preesure on the shoes
this meas when u tromp the pedal the shoe has litle distance to travel, and ensures everything stays in place

the proportioning valve ensures the front brakes are a little stronger than the rears and in some load carrying vehicals they can be controled by the weight over the rear axle

check your brake booster
if it is faulty then this may trigger the switch

the easiest way is to turn the truck off and pump the pedal a few times to expel the vacume
then press firmly on the pedal
hold your foot down and turn the engine on
as the vacume builds in the booster the pedal should sink further in as it assists
if the truck is petrol then the vacume will come from the throttle body
if it is deisel then it will come from a seperate vacume pump

u shouldnt have to bench bleed it
but if u have a commpressor u can VERY slightly pressurerise the resovour and this can help

EDIT
sorry for the unnessercery explanation but im stuck in an airport and bored as hell

 

[Rustydog2010]

u shouldnt have to bench bleed it

If it was new and never done(bleed) it does need to be bleed by itself first. Otherwise as Bighead said it will have air bubbles in the M/C itself.

Nice explanation!

 

[fowler]

mmm maybe

isnt that what recuperation is for
both sides of the cylender are full of fluid so as the piston retracts fluid from the rod side is forced around the cup and into the pressure side

i had to go find my tech books that time

we dont bench bleed before install but they are pressure tested before they are sent to us so they would have a little fluid in them

 

[anderkart]

Blue, Your emergency brake can make the dash brake light stay on too. It has a switch that'll trigger the light if the emergency brake isnt fully released, or if its switch is defective/needs adjustment. Sometimes you just have to pull the release lever and lift up on the emergency brake pedal to make the light go out.

Also, you can simply unplug the wire(s) to the emergency brake switch and/or proportioning valve to help diagnose which one is causing the dash light to stay on. Both of these switches are wired to your dash brake light, they simply supply a ground signal to make the light stay on or not. If the dash light stays on with both switches unplugged, that means one of those 2 wires is shorted to ground.

 

[crazzywolfie]

i don't think ford trucks have a proportioning valve or i don't ever remember seeing on on my dads ford.

 

[fowler]

It should have one otherwise u would be forever licking up the rears

 

[crazzywolfie]

maybe there is something that adjust the amount of braking power between front and back but on my dads ford the front brake line goes to the drivers side front and then T's over to the passenger side. it does not come out of a proportioning valve like all the other trucks i have worked on including my own.

 

[fowler]

Usually the proportioning valve is built in the master cylender

 

[devino246]

maybe there is something that adjust the amount of braking power between front and back but on my dads ford the front brake line goes to the drivers side front and then T's over to the passenger side. it does not come out of a proportioning valve like all the other trucks i have worked on including my own.

What year is your dad's?

 

[crazzywolfie]

it is a 95 f150

 

[devino246]

it is a 95 f150

That should definitely have a proportioning valve. Do the lines running to the T look factory?

 

[Bluethunder3320]

thanks for all your advice! i think it may just be the parking brake. when i hold my foot on the brake and start the engine the pedal does get easier to push as fowler said.

well the rattling continued today. i removed the tail gate and it still rattled, so its not that.

it comes and goes, and when i think its gone, it comes back.. it turned into a ticking for a little while today then back into a rattling.

seems like the rattle happens at the same revolution of the tire

EDIT: i spent over an hour driving around and parking and going under the truck and trying to find something rattling. nothing worked.

 

[crazzywolfie]

That should definitely have a proportioning valve. Do the lines running to the T look factory?

i think the line running to the t is factory. i don't remember ever replacing it. i just remember replacing the the other ones because of how much of a PIA it was to install and hook up the line that goes to the passenger side.

if there is a proportioning valve it is not a standard one like i am use to seeing.

edit: could your exhaust be rattling? it don't look like you have that much holding it.

 

[bighead]

About the rattle? Did you put the driveline on the same way it came off? Did you mark the joints?

If the driveline gets fliped over it will shake rattle and roll like you are saying. Over time it will warp and if it is installed flipped over it will vibrate like you are saying. Say when you hit 20 it starts vibrating.

I have done this many times but it was more vibration than rattles and ticking. But you never know right?

I use a center punch to mark my driveline joints to the axle yoke.

Ticking? check the e-brake and speddo gear good if it's mechanical. Just off the top of my head.

If you thought it was the tailgate then I am betting if you flipped the drivline over it will go away. I got 5 bucks thats your problem.

 

[Bluethunder3320]

i never took the drive shaft out. and it started doing it a little before i parked it to take the bed off.