Torsk (Backbone Chassis) Kart

[gr8hairy1]

I've learned a lot more than I thought I would about wiring when I hooked up all my lights and made turn signals (really proud of the turn signals).

Going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage was easier for me to wrap my head around, but I guess it's easier to drop it down, which makes sense. Seeing your diagram made it click for me.

Also, that's some clean soldering! (at least from the little I can see)

 

[Functional Artist]

I've learned a lot more than I thought I would about wiring when I hooked up all my lights and made turn signals (really proud of the turn signals).

Going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage was easier for me to wrap my head around, but I guess it's easier to drop it down, which makes sense. Seeing your diagram made it click for me.

Also, that's some clean soldering! (at least from the little I can see)

The more you do, the more you learn

It seems like I learn somethin' new just about everyday

Turn signals on a go kart, that's kool!

Thanks

 

[Functional Artist]

The control box is mostly done now, I just gotta
...run the wires up to the dash (inside of the backbone chassis, along side of the batteries)
...bring them up thru some holes behind the dash (protected with rubber grommets)
...while leaving enough "slack" in the wires so the control box can slide "in & out"

I also had to put "slide notches" from the battery box to the holes, to be able to slide the wiring into the holes, with out unhooking everything

 

[Functional Artist]

Then, I started connecting stuff to the dash

I want the dash to be unpluggable/removable ("if ever necessary")
...without unhooking/unsoldering everything)

Most of the components have "connections" except the Amp/Volt meter sensor wires.

So, I used a (4) wire plug (off an old scooter) "in-line" with the sensor wires, between the shunt & the amp/volt meter

Also, I made a "wire routing" change

The on/off switch & the reverse switch wires were running thru the same (4) wire harness
...but, when I went to attach the (4) wire plug to the meter sensor wires, it seemed like it would be a good idea to also connect/run the on/off switch wires thru the same (4) wire harness (since they are going to the same area, on the dash)

So, back @ the control box, I switched the wires
...now, the meter & the on/off switch are running together (thru the same harness)
...& the reverse switch wires are now in a separate (because, they go to a totally different place, on the steering wheel) with (2) spare wires

 

[Functional Artist]

Wiring was getting tedious/frustrating

So, I took a break
...& worked on a mounting bracket for the brake light

I could have just screwed it to the middle/rear of the seat back
...but, it would have been angled downward a bit because of the rearward lean
...to have it angled properly, we gotta make a mounting bracket


I have some ~1/8" aluminum scrap from an old sign that should work

I measured, marked, cut & shaped 'er , just fine
…& even bent to 90*, just fine
...but, when I went to bend 'er just a bit more
..."Pop" it snapped in half

Back to the drawin' board

 

[gr8hairy1]

So close yet so far

 

[Functional Artist]

...for my next trick

Back to the "scrap metal pile"
...to see what we got to work with

Well, let's try some thin steel
...it should bend a bit better

Measured, marked, cut & rounded...again

Yup, that should work

 

[Functional Artist]

I finished running all of the wiring thru & to where it goes
...& then got everything connected up

One of the "concerns" I have is
...using the voltage divider to reduce the 48V down to 12V to supply power for the meter
(It seems to get kinda warm/borderline hot)

The resistors that I used are only 1W so, I may/probably need higher wattage resistors

During my initial tests
...the voltage divider that I used for the brake light circuit doesn't seem to get warm
(maybe due to it's only intermittent use)
...but, the one that I used for the meter did
(maybe because it's on continuously)

As a test
...I went ahead & installed the voltage divider but, I made it "easily" removable
(so, instead of just soldering it into the circuit, I used those "bullet" connectors @ all (3) junctions)
This way, I can change it out (if necessary) with one with higher wattage resistors

 

[gr8hairy1]

Would it be worth installing a switch for the meter? I suppose it's more of a personal choice on being able to always see it or have it on demand. (aka Is the drain significant enough?)

 

[Functional Artist]

Would it be worth installing a switch for the meter? I suppose it's more of a personal choice on being able to always see it or have it on demand. (aka Is the drain significant enough?)

The switch on the dash is dual purpose (DPST) (double pole single throw)
...it switches/cuts the power to the meter
…& also switches the speed controller (On or Off) at the same time

I designed it this way so the meter (itself) could also serve dual purposes
(of course it has the (2) read-outs, amps & volts)
...but, by having it switched by the same switch as the speed controller, the meter also acts as a "system activated" light

When the meter is on, I know that the speed controller is on too

* The meter only draws ~50mA

 

[Functional Artist]

I ran into a couple of other issues when I was doing the initial systems test

First of all, when I powered the system up most everything worked except for the meter

I checked the
...power positive (+) coming out of the voltage divider - yup, 12.3V
...the negative (-) - yup, it's got a connection

Then, I checked at the meter
...still have a negative (-) connection
...but, no positive (+)

it must be the connector
...yup, found it! (must not have a good crimp)

Replaced it. Boom! now, we got power

But, (new problem) it don't turn off with the switch WTF

Checked the switch, it wasn't the switch
I even unhooked the wires going to the switch, it was still on
...how can that be, I unhooked the negative wire?

it must be getting it's negative thru/from the (B-) sensor wire
...yup, that's it

OK, so
...we don't need to use the negative lead -check

I don't want to mess with the sensor wires so,
...I'll run the positive wire to/thru the switch & cut the power that way

 

[Functional Artist]

I also ran into another issue that I had to figure out

The reverse feature is activated by a "simple" momentary switch that I am going to mount into the top end of the left handle of the steering wheel.

IIRC Bob58o used a doorbell button (momentary switch) as a "kill switch" on a minibike
...said it fit fight into the end of the handlebar

I figured it would make a handy but, inconspicuous reverse button
...right @ your finger tips & don't even have to take your hands off of the wheel

Sounds great, found one @ Home Depot ~$3.00, fit right in the end of the steering wheel nicely, easy to run the wires to & everything

When I did the initial systems check
...the motor did not function, when I twisted the thumb throttle nothing happened

But, when the reverse button was pushed & the thumb throttle was twisted, the motor worked in reverse
...so, obviously the motor is connected & functions

Then, as a test I unhooked the reverse button
…then, motor functioned normally

& if I just touched the reverse button wires together
...the reverse functioned normally too

...more testing

So, I tried a different switch just hooked straight to the reverse plug
…& everything worked normally (as designed)

...more testing

Figured it out

It's a "lighted" doorbell

Now, IIRC Bob said, "but, don't use a lighted one"

* Important detail, in fine print, @ the very bottom of the first pic

 

[gr8hairy1]

Talk about confusing. That would've been a tough one for me to figure out lol.

But perfect shape/size for the steering wheel! That alone is impressive! Is there no chance at all that doorbell will work? Or are you just going to get a different doorbell to keep it easy?

 

[Functional Artist]

Talk about confusing. That would've been a tough one for me to figure out lol.

But perfect shape/size for the steering wheel! That alone is impressive! Is there no chance at all that doorbell will work? Or are you just going to get a different doorbell to keep it easy?

Learnin' as I go

Maybe because the light inside of the doorbell is "drawing power"
...it's messin' things up

I think, I can still use this doorbell button
...if I can find a way to "blow" the bulb (it's probably house current,120V)

Anyone have any ideas on how to "blow" a 120V bulb "on purpose"?
...without damaging the momentary switch (itself)?

 

[TT540]

For that voltage divider circuit that 3000 Ohm resistor will only see a maximum of 0.768 watts so the 1 watt resistor should be more than enough for the heat that is coming out of it, but more is always safer. This is assuming the voltmeter is a failed short to ground and the maximum current flow possible IE if you take the 1000 Ohm resistor and shorted to ground that's the maximum current flow through the 3000 Ohm resistor.


For the doorbell button most doorbells are not 120 volts the doorbell noise box will have a Transformer to step it down to 12 or 24 volts. The doorbell button might have a diode in it the direction of that diode will affect if it can work in your application. Also an LED is the same as a diode it has a direction and a polarity . The easier thing might be to take the doorbell apart cut out the light and reassemble so that it is just a switch that closes contacts. Or you can use this one here...

https://www.amazon.com/Cylewet-12Pc...5&keywords=momentary+push+button+switch&psc=1

 

[Functional Artist]

For that voltage divider circuit that 3000 Ohm resistor will only see a maximum of 0.768 watts so the 1 watt resistor should be more than enough for the heat that is coming out of it, but more is always safer. This is assuming the voltmeter is a failed short to ground and the maximum current flow possible IE if you take the 1000 Ohm resistor and shorted to ground that's the maximum current flow through the 3000 Ohm resistor.


For the doorbell button most doorbells are not 120 volts the doorbell noise box will have a Transformer to step it down to 12 or 24 volts. The doorbell button might have a diode in it the direction of that diode will affect if it can work in your application. Also an LED is the same as a diode it has a direction and a polarity . The easier thing might be to take the doorbell apart cut out the light and reassemble so that it is just a switch that closes contacts. Or you can use this one here...

https://www.amazon.com/Cylewet-12Pc...5&keywords=momentary+push+button+switch&psc=1

Thanks, more info is always helpful

The voltage divider (behind the dash) is easily accessible so I'll keep my eye/finger on it

For the doorbell (once I noticed that it was lighted)
...I think the power draw is what's causing the speed controller issues

I figured the light (being constantly on) & the momentary switch (switchable) were kinda separate circuits.

I also figured that these "old style" doorbells had regular incandescent bulbs
...didn't think about possibly being a LED (light emiting diode)

I only want/need the switch that's why I thought about just "blowing" the bulb
...there should be no more power draw
...but, still have a functional momentary switch

Maybe I'll try to dismantle 'er
…& see what's inside
(should only be the button, a spring, a couple of contacts & the light)

 

[Functional Artist]

I got our (4) 12V 15AH batteries in
...these 15AH batteries are the exact same size as the 12AH batteries
...but, (if the numbers are right/correct) they should have ~20% more capacity

I also added some protective border around the battery boxes
...came out pretty good

Here is a video of the initial systems checks

I edited out the ~2 hours of fumbling around checkin'-N-figuring stuff out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgvirFm_s6k

 

[TT540]

Looks great! I wonder if those batteries need a tie down. Perhaps a velcro strap around the outside?

 

[Functional Artist]

For the doorbell button most doorbells are not 120 volts the doorbell noise box will have a Transformer to step it down to 12 or 24 volts. The doorbell button might have a diode in it the direction of that diode will affect if it can work in your application. Also an LED is the same as a diode it has a direction and a polarity . The easier thing might be to take the doorbell apart cut out the light and reassemble so that it is just a switch that closes contacts.

I looked around (Home Depot, Lowes etc.)
...no one, has non-lighted doorbell buttons (anymore?)

I don't think this one has an LED bulb
...their usually labeled LED "selling point"
...& most/all of the "LED" doorbell buttons are over $10.00 (this one ~$3.00)

Thanks, that's the info (piece of the puzzle) I needed

If it's only a 12V or 24V bulb
...then 120V should "blow it" easily (exceeding it's specified operating parameters)

Seems like a "safe-n-simple test"
...I can use a plug-in-strip with a circuit breaker (to help protect my workshop wiring)
…& "at worst" I fry a ~$3.00 switch

So, I wired the boor bell to, the plug off of, an old kitchen appliance
…& simply plugged it in (120V house hold electrical outlet)
…"pop" ...I mean...

But, let's see if the switch still works

I re-connected the doorbell button to the reverse wires (on the Torsk kart)
...& re-tested it

Yup, it works!
...both forward & reverse (now) function normally

I added some heat shrink to insulate the connections (ring terminals-n-screws)
...then, just poped 'er in

.

 

[Functional Artist]

Looks great! I wonder if those batteries need a tie down. Perhaps a velcro strap around the outside?

Yup, just in case I flip 'er