Torque Converter Upgrade?

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You can buy the driver and 7" driven w/o the backing plate, no need in all that unnecessary extra chain. Jus order a belt to match.
Measure the big pulley and see if you can put a 7" driven in its place.
So the kart uses a 3/4 inch jackshaft, and I cant find any 3/4" bore 7 or 6 inch driven clones for under 40$ from anything other than vmcchineseparts.com. Does anybody know if that website is legit, or any other options in that price range?
 

BrownStainRacing

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So the kart uses a 3/4 inch jackshaft, and I cant find any 3/4" bore 7 or 6 inch driven clones for under 40$ from anything other than vmcchineseparts.com. Does anybody know if that website is legit, or any other options in that price range?
Check gokartsuppy.
I think, BMI has them.
Ebay
I've orderd parts for gy6 engines from vmc.
That $40 sounds about right to me.
 

BrownStainRacing

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Which belt should I use with a 7.3 inch shaft center distance, 7 inch driven pulley, and a clone driver off of amazon?
 
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Are there any 9 tooth 3/4" bore #41 sprockets that exist? I need to up the gearing to 6:1 for the torque converter and I don't want to spend money on a bigger axle sprocket.
 
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I have searched far and wide and the lowest I could find was 10 tooth, which would leave me with a 5.4:1 ratio. How much acceleration would that knock off, and could it damage the torque converter?
 

BrownStainRacing

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I have searched far and wide and the lowest I could find was 10 tooth, which would leave me with a 5.4:1 ratio. How much acceleration would that knock off, and could it damage the torque converter?
The 10t will be the smallest you will find for 3/4" jackshaft.
I think you will be just fine with that 7" driven, 5.4:1 gear, and those small 14" tires. Your final drive will be around 6.04:1 on the high side. On the low side it'll be around 16.2:1- 17.01:1. I got a feeling you'll be shopping for new rear tires in the near future.
I would recommend when you get the 7" driven, while its still new and easy to get apart and put back together, jus go ahead and move the spring to the hole farthest left, if looking at holes at the 12 o'clock position. This will hold low gear jus a tad bit longer, allowing the engine to build power before shifting into high to quickly. It won't lug the engine down so fast.
Change out 1 plain driver spring for 1 white driver spring. The stock springs and weights will engage the belt at 2200 rpm. 1 white and 1 plain will engage at 2600 rpm, this is a perfect engagement rpm for a stock governored engine on a go kart. That stock engine peaks torq around 3000-3200, so getting it up near peak torq, before engagement, will help it pull weight outta the hole. It'll also put a big smile on your face.
Good luck, keep updating you progress, you are going in the right direction.
 

panchothedog

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No it won't damage your torque converter. Worse case, it could be a little sluggish on initial take off. The 7" driven will actually help with that, as it offers a little lower ratio due to its increased size. BTW for a 3/4" shaft , 10 tooth is the smallest you will find. 8 and 9 tooth are only made for a 5/8" shaft .
 
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I got everything installed and it works really well with tons of torque. There is a slight issue though. The stock jackshaft is too short and isn't threaded. If I have properly inserted into the sprocket, it only goes halfway through the driven. I simply used a 5/16 thread bolt and some washers to secure it. If I torque that nut down too much, it pulls the jackshaft out of the sprocket, even with the set screws torqued down really hard. I tried torquing the the bolt until it just barely is tight enough, and the vibrations still pull it towards the driven pulley and out of the sprocket. Could I do something that doesn't involve getting a new jackshaft?
 
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