Kartorbust
Well-known member
I had been contemplating on doing this for a few days now since I purchased my plans, might as well just do it. The other day I bought the Badland Buggy ST2 Next Generation plans. I had been going back and forth for at least a year now on whether I was going to draw up my own plans, wing it, or buy plans. I took the latter route, mostly because I'm terrible at drafting, especially when I have zero idea on dimensions of parts needed (seat(s), engine size, gearbox, spacing, etc).
I chose these plans for a couple reasons over others I've been looking at for a long time;
1. Full suspension
2. Single seater
3. Can use snowmobile engines more easily
4. It's a bit more narrow than other buggy plans on the market.
5. Ujoint axles and not cv axles.
However and this is where this thread comes in at, plans call for 1" keyed shaft for the axles. After seeing some modified engines rip this size axle like crazy, mostly breaking keys and stripping out the keyway in the shaft. Though the way this buggy is designed, they call for a full length key going from one end to the other between each ujoint. Though I question if this would alleviate the problem with the power being transferred through out the whole thing.
Another thing is, ujoint selection is a bit worrisome. Ones I'm finding are either the ones from Surplus Center, which are lower power rated, like 10-28hp maybe even lower in some cases. The others being from Summit Racing and other websites, these being Spicer 1000 series ujoints. However, no specs are readily available, such as maximum working angle and power rating. I have been considering using Spicer 1310 ujoints and yokes, but those have a 1 1/4" bore with the 1/4" or even 5/16" keyway. These 1310 ujoints have a maximum angle of 27⁰ to 30⁰, continous torque rating of 130ft/lbs and max continuous torque rating of 790ft/lbs.
I'm still pretty much set to use the Arctic Cat 500cc fan cooled engine I have in the Pather 5000 snowmobile. I'll be getting the dual cylinder head temperature gauge, just so I can monitor the engine while riding, especially in the summer. I should be fine long as I keep an eye on the temp and not let it get close to 600⁰F (300⁰C), maybe a bit lower to give myself more peace of mind. May do an engine rebuild, but I'm not sure. Need to first clean/rebuild the carburetor on it and make sure it even runs.
The bolt pattern they want to use on this is a 5x4.5. However wheel selection sucks when looking for tires to use. I'm looking to go with 25" tires on it to keep the overall gear ratio at 12:1 with the gearbox. More than likely going with the Polaris Trailboss 350L gearbox. Should give me the ratios I need for the reduction. Output will be a 13 tooth with a 54 tooth sprocket on the spool. So in high gear I should be going no faster than 50mph or so and low range should top out right around 20mph with the CVT in overdrive. I'm going with the suggestion of the Polaris P90 CVT instead of the Arctic Cat hex drive.
Plans also only call for a single brake. I may go with dual inboard brakes if I have the room. I'm not wanting to use an automotive brake rotor, probably have a shop cut a 9" rotor 1/4" thick and use Wilwood SC10 twin piston caliper(s) for braking. Should be plenty. Unless a single piston would give me ample braking? I rather have too much than not enough if that's even possible.
For tires, I was hoping to go with Kenda Bear Claw K299 in a 25x10x11 for the rear and 25x8x11 in the front. But with the wheel selection being limited, since the 5x4.5 lug pattern is most commonly used for trailers, it's hard to find that size. A 4on4 or 4x110 would be more common to find, since those are used on ATVs quite a lot. I'd prefer to go with steel wheels for several reasons.
1. they allow for clip on style wheel weights, which makes my job infinitely easier when I want to balance the wheel and tire vs tape/sticky weights.
2. They are a lot cheaper than aluminum wheels.
3. If I hit a obstacle and bend it, I can bend it back with a hammer vs aluminum which cracks or needs to be professionally refurbished at a cost.
I had thought about using go kart wheel hubs that are 4on4, but I question how well they would hold up with a 40-50hp engine and the amount of abuse they would take on the trails. I've also only have found either an aluminum set for 1 1/4" axles or the standard Azusa Engineering steel ones for 1" axles. But I have no idea how well they will hold up again.
On another note, I know the stator output on the engine is going to be quite low. However, the way that I'll be running the CVT to a gearbox now and not a chain jackshaft (which the plans actually has the option to make), I cannot utilize my GM Delco alternator, which would give me more than enough power to run at least 2 65w LED flood lights, brake light, and a couple backlit gauges. Will have a battery mounted somewhere on the buggy, but it won't be getting much of a charge. Plus I think I'll need a rectifier/regulator for it, since I believe this stator is A/C only.
Sorry for the long winded first post of this thread. But these are a good portion of my thoughts and thought process that I'm going through before I buy more stuff and before I start building this. I need to have a decent game plan ahead of time so I can built it without having too many issues from the start. Also another reason why I chose to buy plans and not wing it.
I chose these plans for a couple reasons over others I've been looking at for a long time;
1. Full suspension
2. Single seater
3. Can use snowmobile engines more easily
4. It's a bit more narrow than other buggy plans on the market.
5. Ujoint axles and not cv axles.
However and this is where this thread comes in at, plans call for 1" keyed shaft for the axles. After seeing some modified engines rip this size axle like crazy, mostly breaking keys and stripping out the keyway in the shaft. Though the way this buggy is designed, they call for a full length key going from one end to the other between each ujoint. Though I question if this would alleviate the problem with the power being transferred through out the whole thing.
Another thing is, ujoint selection is a bit worrisome. Ones I'm finding are either the ones from Surplus Center, which are lower power rated, like 10-28hp maybe even lower in some cases. The others being from Summit Racing and other websites, these being Spicer 1000 series ujoints. However, no specs are readily available, such as maximum working angle and power rating. I have been considering using Spicer 1310 ujoints and yokes, but those have a 1 1/4" bore with the 1/4" or even 5/16" keyway. These 1310 ujoints have a maximum angle of 27⁰ to 30⁰, continous torque rating of 130ft/lbs and max continuous torque rating of 790ft/lbs.
I'm still pretty much set to use the Arctic Cat 500cc fan cooled engine I have in the Pather 5000 snowmobile. I'll be getting the dual cylinder head temperature gauge, just so I can monitor the engine while riding, especially in the summer. I should be fine long as I keep an eye on the temp and not let it get close to 600⁰F (300⁰C), maybe a bit lower to give myself more peace of mind. May do an engine rebuild, but I'm not sure. Need to first clean/rebuild the carburetor on it and make sure it even runs.
The bolt pattern they want to use on this is a 5x4.5. However wheel selection sucks when looking for tires to use. I'm looking to go with 25" tires on it to keep the overall gear ratio at 12:1 with the gearbox. More than likely going with the Polaris Trailboss 350L gearbox. Should give me the ratios I need for the reduction. Output will be a 13 tooth with a 54 tooth sprocket on the spool. So in high gear I should be going no faster than 50mph or so and low range should top out right around 20mph with the CVT in overdrive. I'm going with the suggestion of the Polaris P90 CVT instead of the Arctic Cat hex drive.
Plans also only call for a single brake. I may go with dual inboard brakes if I have the room. I'm not wanting to use an automotive brake rotor, probably have a shop cut a 9" rotor 1/4" thick and use Wilwood SC10 twin piston caliper(s) for braking. Should be plenty. Unless a single piston would give me ample braking? I rather have too much than not enough if that's even possible.
For tires, I was hoping to go with Kenda Bear Claw K299 in a 25x10x11 for the rear and 25x8x11 in the front. But with the wheel selection being limited, since the 5x4.5 lug pattern is most commonly used for trailers, it's hard to find that size. A 4on4 or 4x110 would be more common to find, since those are used on ATVs quite a lot. I'd prefer to go with steel wheels for several reasons.
1. they allow for clip on style wheel weights, which makes my job infinitely easier when I want to balance the wheel and tire vs tape/sticky weights.
2. They are a lot cheaper than aluminum wheels.
3. If I hit a obstacle and bend it, I can bend it back with a hammer vs aluminum which cracks or needs to be professionally refurbished at a cost.
I had thought about using go kart wheel hubs that are 4on4, but I question how well they would hold up with a 40-50hp engine and the amount of abuse they would take on the trails. I've also only have found either an aluminum set for 1 1/4" axles or the standard Azusa Engineering steel ones for 1" axles. But I have no idea how well they will hold up again.
On another note, I know the stator output on the engine is going to be quite low. However, the way that I'll be running the CVT to a gearbox now and not a chain jackshaft (which the plans actually has the option to make), I cannot utilize my GM Delco alternator, which would give me more than enough power to run at least 2 65w LED flood lights, brake light, and a couple backlit gauges. Will have a battery mounted somewhere on the buggy, but it won't be getting much of a charge. Plus I think I'll need a rectifier/regulator for it, since I believe this stator is A/C only.
Sorry for the long winded first post of this thread. But these are a good portion of my thoughts and thought process that I'm going through before I buy more stuff and before I start building this. I need to have a decent game plan ahead of time so I can built it without having too many issues from the start. Also another reason why I chose to buy plans and not wing it.