Spray Paint Cracking?

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thisismyusername

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Ok there is a professional powder coating company that says they will only charge 65$ to powder coat my frame, is it worth it? And how much better is theasy powder coat?
 

ML-TOYS

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Ok there is a professional powder coating company that says they will only charge 65$ to powder coat my frame, is it worth it? And how much better is theasy powder coat?

Not bad but you HAVE to strip it to bare metal for it to work good. Most people will either have it bead blasted or dipped in acid.
 

crazykart

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Also remember that after powder coating some things might not fit!

Powder coating can build up a much more substantial layer then paint. You might have to take the powder coating off in certain spots where it mounts together, like where the forks and bars fit to the frame...
 

thisismyusername

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Also remember that after powder coating some things might not fit!

Powder coating can build up a much more substantial layer then paint. You might have to take the powder coating off in certain spots where it mounts together, like where the forks and bars fit to the frame...

Yea I wasn't thinking about that. It wouldn't be that hard to just like sand down in the axle hangers and stuff would it?

EDIT: Also just want to know what anyone thinks about this, I put the seat on the mini bike to see how it looks, and realized the holes where the bolts go are seriously messed up. Let me show you guys what it would look like if the seat was bolted on, it is way off of the frame its self. I think I can just get those nuts that you can put into the wood and bolt it down like that, but just surprised that this happened...
 

OzFab

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Ok there is a professional powder coating company that says they will only charge 65$ to powder coat my frame, is it worth it? And how much better is theasy powder coat?

That price is definitely worth it; powder coating is much harder than any paint so, it will last longer & almost never scratch or chip; the only downside is the limited colour range...

However, as stated, the surface must be pristine...

Also just want to know what anyone thinks about this, I put the seat on the mini bike to see how it looks, and realized the holes where the bolts go are seriously messed up. Let me show you guys what it would look like if the seat was bolted on, it is way off of the frame its self. I think I can just get those nuts that you can put into the wood and bolt it down like that, but just surprised that this happened...

You're thinking of "T nuts" which must be fitted from the inside; ie: the top surface of the wood base; if fitted from the outside, they will simply pull out over time...
 

thisismyusername

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That price is definitely worth it; powder coating is much harder than any paint so, it will last longer & almost never scratch or chip; the only downside is the limited colour range...

However, as stated, the surface must be pristine...



You're thinking of "T nuts" which must be fitted from the inside; ie: the top surface of the wood base; if fitted from the outside, they will simply pull out over time...

Hmm, not sure what i will do about the seat but its not a big deal for now. I asked the company how much it would be to sand blast the frame also, haven't gotten a response yet but i hope its a decent price. I might just use paint stripper and wire wheel but i really have limited work space right now and have a bit of money that i saved for the bike for this purpose, so i might as well just save my self some time and have them sand blast it for a decent price.
 

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Hmm, not sure what i will do about the seat but its not a big deal for now. I asked the company how much it would be to sand blast the frame also, haven't gotten a response yet but i hope its a decent price. I might just use paint stripper and wire wheel but i really have limited work space right now and have a bit of money laying around so i might as well just save my self some time and have them sand blast it for a decent price.

You could send me some of that extra money you got laying around. P.M. me for my address. :thumbsup:

Denny
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OzFab

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Hmm, not sure what i will do about the seat but its not a big deal for now. I asked the company how much it would be to sand blast the frame also, haven't gotten a response yet but i hope its a decent price. I might just use paint stripper and wire wheel but i really have limited work space right now and have a bit of money that i saved for the bike for this purpose, so i might as well just save my self some time and have them sand blast it for a decent price.

I may be wrong but, the sand blasting will probably cost more than the powder coating...
 

thisismyusername

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Brake parts cleaner! Lol. It'll strip all the paint, and iirc won't leave a residue. Just hope for no rust.

What do u mean hope for no rust? I could just sand it down before going to get it powder coated right?

---------- Post added at 10:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:00 PM ----------

I may be wrong but, the sand blasting will probably cost more than the powder coating...

Yea kinda thinking the same thing. I'll see what they say tomorrow.
 

bookel

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Ok so i primed, then painted my frame and everything was all good. But then right when i put the clear coat on it just immediately cracks up. Basically ruined the paint job. Not sure what to do because without the clear coating layers the paint just scratches right off. Anybody know why it did this and if i can stop it?

Sounds like you waited to long to add the clear. Already stated. When I paint I let the primer dry good. Then I put down the base. Once I have sufficient coverage with the base, so long as there are no runs or fish eye, I immediately (wait about 10 minutes) lay on the clear while the base is still wet. The theory is that laying the clear onto wet base causes the clear to mix and bond into the base making the adhesion stronger. If you wait long enough for the base to set (about an hour) you need to wait a couple of days because now the base is dry enough for the clear to not mix and bond to the base but the base is still gassing off and it has to try to get through the clear that you waited too long to lay down. Remember when using rattle cans to use the same brand you start with from primer to clear.

"Oil based polyurethane, the kind for floors if you can find it in a spray can." Good to know. I'll give that a try next time I rattle can. Does that work with krylon as well? I prefer automotive paints and clears but on these smaller projects its too expensive.
 

crazykart

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Idk about krylon, but if it's oil based it should be fine.

I usually get it in the gallon just because it's crazy cheap. Little acetone to thin, or my personal favorite xylene (xylol ) put into a hvlp and spray.

Now remember that oil based enamels were used to paint cars back in the day, and are still used to paint most farm equipment because of its toughness to cheapness ratio lol. So technically it can be called a car paint. With the results I'very had painting cars with it, it does the job quite well.

Another tip, if you have an hvlp gun, and get the pint/quart/gallon of rustoleum, you can pick up a pearlizing powder from most arts and crafts stores (hobby lobby) for around $5. You mix that in the base, or clear and it gives you amazing results. I'll post up a pic in a bit of the camaro I did in a black base/gold pearl mix.

The gold to black changes a lot depending on the angle and light. Most of these were the first shoot of base, no clear yet so didn't look as smooth as the finished product. This is rustoleum black, pearlizing powder aztec gold mixed in, and was finished with 2 gallons of poly for floors, all thinned with xylene.
 

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bookel

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That looks great. What brand poly for floors is it? Also what is the mix ratio for the pearl? My Chevy Luv I painted with the Rustoleum in black. Wanted to try the $50 paint job. I thinned with acetone and sprayed with hvlp. It looks good but I have to say it was a ton of work. I also didn't clear coat it so that probably added t my work load as I had to do a lot of wet sanding to get that high gloss finish. Wish I'd known about the floor poly then. Heck I might repaint it with the pearl and floor poly now that I've seen this. I don't want to spend a lot of money on the paint for this vehicle.
 

crazykart

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Min wax polyurethane oil based high gloss for floors is what I used. This is the pearl podwer http://www.overstock.com/#/9672505/product.html?selectedOption=14462869 but I got it from hobby lobby, used about a half a jar, so a little under a half an oz.

You do still have to do a light polishing after, but you have to wait at least a week in a good summer heat, maybe a month right now to let the poly fully cure before polishing. Without the polish you still get a good gloss, but after it looks like glass.
 

thisismyusername

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Just wanted to let you guys know that it turned out amazing. The bike is not fully assembled yet but i just was riding it around a bit today before assembling the rest of it. Having some problems with the clutch, but the frame looks really good!
 

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