Slingshot

[Bansil]

I like the addition of food and stuff to posts

 

[Functional Artist]

I got the fender extensions cut

Also, went ahead & cut more of the "center headlight area" out (seemed like a good idea, we'll just have ta see)
...& cut a "moustache" I guess ya would call it, for the lower front area
...& then, started assembling the pieces

Glued 'em all together with some wood glue
...clamped 'em together with some clamps
...& weighted 'em down with a couple of SLA's (look Epsilon Z, I found another use for SLA's )

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey why ya makin the hood outta wood?

Well, I'm glad you asked

It's not gonna be made outta wood
...them are gonna be the "molds" for the hood

I watched a video (he...he) on how to make a "fiberglass hood"
...& said "I can do that"

From what I understand, most folks usually use the actual car's hood (or other automotive panel) as the "mold"
...but, mine is gonna be "totally custom"
...so, I gotta make the "mold"

* That's what I love about these (my) projects
...so, far I got to design a unique kart
...work with steel (pipe & flat stock)
...design & build a "custom" chain drive steering rack
...did some wiring & installation of electrical components
...designed, made & installed a brake system
...worked with some plastic
...now, working with wood
...next, is working with fiberglass
...then, comes the seat/upholstery
...& then, painting isn't too far off either

Oh, yea I get ta show 'er off & drive 'er around too

 

[Functional Artist]

After all of the pieces of the "molds" for the hood dried or set, I mixed up some plaster (yup, regular old household plaster for patchin' walls)
...& used it to fill in, most of the voids & imperfections (as recommended in the video)

After that dried/set, I sanded all of the plaster nice-n-smooth
...then, sealed 'er all up, with a heavy coat of white spray paint

 

[Functional Artist]

I stacked up the (2) "molds"
...& sat 'em on the kart, for a "test fit"

The front "should" curve down
...& attach to the front bumper

When it does , the front edge of the fenders (& top edge of the headlight cut-out) "should" also, curve down
...& "cap off" the headlights

 

[WillMatrix]

I can’t wait to see the next steps of you applying the panels so I can get a better understanding lol. I be lost but so satisfied by your updates

 

[Functional Artist]

I waxed the out of the "molds" (Yup, I used regular old car polishing wax, as recommended in the video)
...then, I waxed 'em again, just to be sure (I used more of like a dabbing procedure, this time)

For my "first time" I figured I'd try the easy/flat piece
...so, I layed the "mold" on the work bench
...painted a layer of the resin on
...layed a piece fiberglass cloth over/on top of the "goop"
...& then, painted" another layer of the resin on (makin' sure to "soak thru" the cloth)

I let it "harden" up for about an hour
...then, gently "popped" the "new" fiberglass "panel", off of the "mold"

* Yup, there needs to be, more "layers" of cloth & resin
...but, I want to keep 'er "pliable" (for a minute)
...so, I can get 'er ta "curve" down in the front, nicely
...then, once that's established (the curved area) I'll add a couple of more "layers" ta help strengthen 'er up.

Well, here is our "base" panel (seemed to "turn out" about as expected)
...next up, some trimmin' & shapin'

 

[madprofessor]

Noticed there's no anti-itch advice on here for you. Guys on car shop shows on TV put a lot of store in baby powdering yourself all over. They have the best gear, including plastic 1-piece long sleeve/glove, and the right kind of bunny suit. Tape tight around suit ankles and wrist. Use a respirator, not for the itch, for your continued good health.
As I'm a veteran of the HVACR field you'd think I know all there is about insulation fiberglass and its god-awful itch, but I don't. No matter what I still itch, being in the same room with it gets me itching. Experience has only taught me not to put the itchy clothes in the same basket with other clothes, wash completely separate from other clothes for at least 3 wash days before mixing with the others.

 

[madprofessor]

Saw on a car shop show some fiberglass I've never seen in person. He had a gallon size can of chopped strands and goopy stuff, just shoved his gloved hand in it and started packing it onto the wooden "structure" he'd built. It was a big woofer speaker box for a truck, where the wooden structure remains, and the 'glass refined the flow of the shape and reinforced around the speaker. Ground smoother and then body-worked with putty after it cured. You're doing a popout mold, but it's a thought for other things, you are trying to learn working with that media.

 

[Functional Artist]

Noticed there's no anti-itch advice on here for you. Guys on car shop shows on TV put a lot of store in baby powdering yourself all over. They have the best gear, including plastic 1-piece long sleeve/glove, and the right kind of bunny suit. Tape tight around suit ankles and wrist. Use a respirator, not for the itch, for your continued good health.
As I'm a veteran of the HVACR field you'd think I know all there is about insulation fiberglass and its god-awful itch, but I don't. No matter what I still itch, being in the same room with it gets me itching. Experience has only taught me not to put the itchy clothes in the same basket with other clothes, wash completely separate from other clothes for at least 3 wash days before mixing with the others.

I appreciate it pal

I'm wearing gloves & respirator while workin' with this stuff
...but, I'm also workin' outside, with a nice breeze
...& tryin' ta stay "up wind" of this stuff

I got the "base panel" trimmed (sheet metal cutters work great)
...& set 'er on the kart for a "test fit"

Yup, that's the kinda "curve" that I had in mind

 

[madprofessor]

Wow. Now I see what you meant about keeping it pliable, that's a drastic amount of flexing the cured 'glass. You could really benefit from a couple of pieces of board cut in that curve shape for use as bucks to hold that shape while you lay on/pack on more 'glass on the underside.

 

[Functional Artist]

Wow. Now I see what you meant about keeping it pliable, that's a drastic amount of flexing the cured 'glass. You could really benefit from a couple of pieces of board cut in that curve shape for use as bucks to hold that shape while you lay on/pack on more 'glass on the underside.

The concept I'm workin' is that this "is" the base
...& then, the subsequent layers, are to be put on top

Would there be a reason for puttin' 'em (more layers) on the "back side"?
Wouldn't adding to the "back side", totally change the "inner" dimensions?

As it is, it's kinda "form fitted" to the kart
...& the "upper level" (shaker) is to be "worked in"
...or "glued down" as part of them, subsequent layers
(which should also, help 'er hold 'er shape)

 

[Functional Artist]

Ooh yea, I almost forgot, the "hold down bracket"

I made a hold down bracket ta, well, hold down the hood

It is also, ta be "worked in" or hidden in the subsequent layers

 

[madprofessor]

Okay, I did it again. As I've gotten older, I see and do everything backwards, have no spatial grasp anymore. Can't ever put a pipe wrench or Channellocks on or turn a bolt the right way first time, etc. If that's the base, then it already is the backside. Subsequent 'glass goes on top of it, understood now. Thought I was looking at what would in the end be smooth and painted.
If layering over that, how do you plan to in the end get a smooth top surface without cloth marks or ripples etc.? Tons of Bondo?

 

[madprofessor]

Is this link below the right kind of stuff for the kind of thing you're doing, and with the cloth is it the right price? Or way out of the ballpark?
I'm considering doing a small project myself now, and like you I'm not well experienced with fiberglass.
TRUE COMPOSITES: Polyester Resin with 1708 x 38" x 5 Yards Fiberglass, MEKP Hardener, Laminating Repair Kits-Great for Boats, Car Exterior, Canoe, Surfboard, Non-Tacky Finish (1 Gallon kit, 2oz MEK-P): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Functional Artist]

Is this link below the right kind of stuff for the kind of thing you're doing, and with the cloth is it the right price? Or way out of the ballpark?
I'm considering doing a small project myself now, and like you I'm not well experienced with fiberglass.
TRUE COMPOSITES: Polyester Resin with 1708 x 38" x 5 Yards Fiberglass, MEKP Hardener, Laminating Repair Kits-Great for Boats, Car Exterior, Canoe, Surfboard, Non-Tacky Finish (1 Gallon kit, 2oz MEK-P): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Yup, that seems about right
I got my stuff @ WalMart
...the resin came in quart containers
...& the cloth came in smaller packages too

Cost seems about right, I've got almost $75.00 in ta this "hood" (so far)

* How do end up going off on these "tangents"?

Ya know, I'm just movin' along, buildin' a kart & suddenly I look up & I'm "knee deep" in "something else"
...& I spent $75.00 too WTF
...oops, I mean

But, But, But
...the "upper section" turned out "pretty kool" I must say!

 

[Functional Artist]

Hey, that's kool!
...how'd ya make it?

Well, I'm glad you asked

Since this piece has some "seriously sharp" body lines (next time I'd definitely have 'em be more mellow)
...I really, really, really layed the wax on
...& I mean like SUPER HEAVY

* This is to form a "barrier" to help keep the resin from stickin' to the "mold"
...so the "new piece" will actually "pop off", of the "mold", when your done

** Also, I should mention that these "forms" that I made are technically "plugs" & not really "molds"

Since were puttin' the material "on top" of the "form"
...the "form" is considered a "plug"

If we were puttin' the material "inside" of the "form"
...the "form" would be considered a "mold" (see what ya can learn from watchin' videos)

So, I put a layer of resin on
...then, started addin' the precut pieces (video said, it helps ta "wrap around corners" if ya cut the fiberglass mat, in pieces/before startin")

After lettin' 'er harden up, I attacket 'er with the grinder/sander (loaded with #36 grit)
...gently, of course
...but, I had ta "rough 'er up" (technical term)

I mostly removed any unwanted build up, runs, drips etc.
...ta get that stuff "outta the way"
...& ta help the next layer stick

Then, I went ahead & added, another layer
...& the, after that layer "hardened", I did some more "body work"

I was just about ta add another layer
...when my buddy said "if ya make that thing much stiffer, your never gonna get it off"

Then, I replied "your crushin' me with these negative vibes"
...but, I appreciate the "reality check"

So, I went ahead & "popped it off"
...which wasn't easy at all

I'm so glad he "spoke up"
...'cause I probably wouldn't of gotten 'er off (at least not in (1) piece) if it was "stiffer"
...& here is what it looks from the "inside"

Notice there's not much "mold/plug" debris
...& I gotta do a bit more "body work"
...but,...not bad, for a beginner

 

[Functional Artist]

I added a couple more "layers" of fiberglass to the "upper level"
...ta strengthen 'er up
...ta help 'er hold 'er shape

While that was "settin'"
...I cut & welded on a "bracket" ta mount the lower front of the "base", to the kart

* Are we just gonna "bolt" 'er down?

Hmmm...
...I'm thinkin'......gimme a minute

How about some kind of an "upper front bumper/hold down"?
Hmmm...

Well, this is kinda how its gonna look

I love how the fenders "kick down"
...kinda reminds me of the wings on a plane

 

[Functional Artist]

I got it!
I'll just "notch out" a piece of pipe
Yea, I think that'll do it

 

[Functional Artist]

The "base" started off with (1) "layer" (resin, cloth & resin on top)
...then, I sat 'er on the kart & added the "hold down bracket"
* I needed it on the kart, ta hold it's shape
...so, I tucked a piece of plastic, in between the hood & the kart, ta help protect everything

Next, was, another "layer" (resin, cloth & resin)
* I put a piece, above the bracket & a piece below, ta help hide it.

After that second "layer" hardened, I did some measurin' & markin'
* This way I have some guidance/help "centering the "upper level")

The third "layer" was a full size piece (covering the entire hood)

Then, while that was still "wet", I went ahead & mounted/glued the "upper level" on
...& BOOM! the (2) became (1)